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- #21
Help on starting after 4 years of sitting (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CaliDreamin
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It's not obvious that you need a new tank. All that stuff has to be cleaned but you aren't screwed yet. FYI, a new tank from Toyota will run you $1000.
Get the tank cleaned out as best you can and clean up the fuel pump and see where you end up. Some crud can be absorbed by a new fuel filter, but you are a long way from there.
Get the tank cleaned out as best you can and clean up the fuel pump and see where you end up. Some crud can be absorbed by a new fuel filter, but you are a long way from there.
Finding a replacement tank will be the trick.
Going with all new (tank, fuel pump assembly) would be best, but if funds are an issue...that tank could probably be cleaned and sealed. The pump assembly (with sending unit removed) could be bead blasted and put back into service. I would check the sending unit to see if it is operable (and the float). If it is...then all you need is a replacement pump kit .
New fuel filter: $18.00
Tank seal/gasket: $15.00
Replacement fuel pump kit: $150.00 (no sending unit)
Tank clean and seal: $ ????
Going with all new (tank, fuel pump assembly) would be best, but if funds are an issue...that tank could probably be cleaned and sealed. The pump assembly (with sending unit removed) could be bead blasted and put back into service. I would check the sending unit to see if it is operable (and the float). If it is...then all you need is a replacement pump kit .
New fuel filter: $18.00
Tank seal/gasket: $15.00
Replacement fuel pump kit: $150.00 (no sending unit)
Tank clean and seal: $ ????
I bought a nice, rust free, tank for $50 from a mud member and he tossed in good straps and the whole fuel filter & pump assembly for $250, shipped.
You don't need that yet. You need to buy a box of rags, get all the fuel and crud out of your tank and clean up the junk you have before you buy new stuff. Your stuff is likely fine, it's just going to F your sh!t up if you try to drive it the way it is.
You don't need that yet. You need to buy a box of rags, get all the fuel and crud out of your tank and clean up the junk you have before you buy new stuff. Your stuff is likely fine, it's just going to F your sh!t up if you try to drive it the way it is.
Check for a replacement tank from @slow95z .
Also, you can clean out the tank with a solution, acid and BB's, but DO NOT COAT OR SEAL THE INSIDE OF THE TANK!
Literally EVERYONE I have ever had a conversation with about sealing a tank on the inside has had a failure in a few years of service. I deal a LOT with old cars and so many people make the sealing mistake.
Also, you can clean out the tank with a solution, acid and BB's, but DO NOT COAT OR SEAL THE INSIDE OF THE TANK!
Literally EVERYONE I have ever had a conversation with about sealing a tank on the inside has had a failure in a few years of service. I deal a LOT with old cars and so many people make the sealing mistake.
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- #26
Thanks for the lead and advice! What type of acid should I use and I'm assuming just dump the two in the tank and shake it all about?
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- #27
So you're saying there's a chance! Thanks, glad I have some options.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
Find a different tank or ...drop the tank. Scrap out as much as you can. Power wash the inside. You will also need to clean the baffle pickup tube out and possibly raise it up 1/4" outside the baffel to help prevent bringing future solids into the fuel pump area. The sending unit is probably fine. Just need to soak everything in PB blaster or something similar. Change the fuel pump and strainer. Remove the fuel filter and purge the line there and replace filter.
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- #29
Great info here, thanks a ton! With all of the help you guys have given me on this I'm feeling confident that I'll be able to refurb the tank and get her going again soon!
Go to the store and pick up about 4 to 5 gallons of white vinegar, pour it in the tank, slosh it around and let it soak. Don't laugh, vinegar does one hell of a job removing rust because it is in fact a mild acid. After it's done removing that rust, just pour it out in a catch pan, take an air hose and dry out the inside of the tank. Then inspect the inside of your tank to make sure all the rust and dirt has been removed, if you still have spots of rust retreat them with vinegar till the rust is gone.
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+1 on the vinegar, I should have mentioned that. Vinegar is amazing if you can really get it to soak on the rust over night. Not sure you need to fill the whole tank with vinegar, but that would definetly get all of the rust out if you could let it soak for a week. Otherwise a few gallons and some elbow grease with a green scrubby should really help.
I can't really tell from the photos, but is that all rust above the old gas line or is some of that just varnish crud?
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- #32
I'm glad you asked that. I've never even seen the inside of a fuel tank before let alone one with issues so what I saw was completely foreign to me. Going completely off of what all of you nice folks are suggesting. At first I thought that it was all rust but then realized that it's also a powdery substance when it dries. The crud in the very bottom is from the old fuel after 4 years. If u look closely there's another faint line not too far above that one where I added fresh fuel about 6 months ago. The buildup seems to come off easily enough but I didn't know about getting to all the nooks and crannies of the tank or if it was ok to use after cleaning without making bigger issues later. If I clean the tank really well will it just want to keep rusting in the future?
If you can get it clean by using some old toothbrushes and other little pokey brushes and green scrubby the big chunks down, I don't think you will have much rust as long as you don't let it sit again. The rust is probably from water condensing on the inside of the tank over the course of the 4 years and it never got new gas sloshed around to mix that in. Some gas will have water in it and most people agree that this can cause problems and is the reason a lot of people are picky about where the buy their gas. It could just be atmospheric water though too.
If you can drop the tank, I think you will have pretty good luck getting that all cleaned up. You could try doing it through the hole in the floor, but I think it would be easier to rinse and clean if you could lean the tank at different angles. That would also give you access to clean the fuel lines and check the filler neck out for crud. You could probably clean the filler neck with a long bottle brush and some vinegar and then rinse it with water and then use a hair dryer or compressed air to dry it.
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- #34
Man, I sure appreciate you taking the time to respond and help me out! When I cracked the access plate and looked in there I thought I was done. I know I'm a ways from running but now I have a plan thanks to guys like u. Ya, dropping the tank is the plan. Much easier I'd imagine for sure.
Here is a link to another person that cleaned out their tank with products. He chose to do the final sep and line it. I would stop BEFORE lining the tank. This combination does appear to do nice job cleaning the interior of the tank.
1988 4runner Gas Tank Restoration Saga
1988 4runner Gas Tank Restoration Saga
No problem, that is what this forum is for. Yeah, I think you can get this sorted out without spending a ton of money. I am of the belief that if you can fix up what you have that is better than just throwing parts at the truck. I throw plenty of new parts in anyway, but if you can salvage what you have and your main investment is your time, that just leaves more money for replacing stuff you have to.
It won't be a real fast process, but I doubt it will be that tough. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
It DOES do a good job and the sealer works well too. I've used the exact same kit on several tanks (fuel and water) on farm equipment and haven't had a problem. IF you do the job correctly...AND use a high quality sealer/kit it will coat the tank well and STAY there...I promise.
I can't speak to instances where a person doesn't do a good job or uses some cheap A$$ kit, but sealing a tank can be done successfully and it won't rust again.
How about having the tank dipped at a radiator shop? Denatured alcohol should dissolve the varnish and powdery residue.
Water tanks .......Yes. Fuel tanks.....no. Gasoline is already a slight rust inhibitor. That's the reason MOST tanks are factory plain inside. As long as you cycle the fuel through it regularly, you won't have a problem because it's the CONDENSATION that causes the problems.
My Studebaker sat for 31 years with an EMPTY tank. Totally dry, so it had nothing in there to evaporate, condense, repeat. However, I have a 55 Ford that has been stored in a northern climate for the last 20 years, so I will have to see what the fuel is like in that one because I have stored it with non-ethanol gasoline and Sta-Bil additive. Hopefully in the next two years I will go recover that one and make it a regular driver again.
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- #40
Very curious about this as well. Going to call a local shop and ask on tues.
