Help needed dropping tcase (1 Viewer)

[little_joe]

See new post below.....

 

[White Sheep]

I might swing by. Was gonna go to the Charlotte meet in up, then I saw it was 2.5 hrs away. What time are you thinking about starting Saturday?

 

[little_joe]

I'll likely get started NLT 9AM Saturday, it'd be great to meet and hang out!

 

[White Sheep]

I'll give you an update by Thursday

 

[afgman786]

You get the reduction gears for the t case?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm on call Feb 6, but I'll get out there if I can.

 

[little_joe]

Ok, I officially could use some help dropping the transfer case in the 4R. Here's the deal:

• Spontaneously decided to take Wednesday afternoon off and pulled the 4R in my garage, thinking - yeah, I'll just go ahead and drop the transfer case and get started on this.
• Applied Kroil to driveshaft bolts since they were not moving at all. Ashamed (but not too proud) to admit I could not get any of them off.
• I removed the electronic actuator cover to see what kind of mess I am in store for, and -- nada. It was bone dry, grease looked good. This is a huge relief!
• Dorked around a bit waiting for penetrant to do it's thing, retried DS bolts, still nothing (will try them again today).
• Looking at the tcase, I just cannot see - literally because my eyeballs are getting that bad - all of the bolts I need to remove to separate it from the transmission.

Here are the things working against me: eyesight, brain, strength. If anyone wants to swing by, I would be grateful for any help. I have the parts and tools to do the job and really just need a hand getting this thing off the truck - and may need help when it comes time to reinstall.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

When?

 

[little_joe]

Any time, evenings, this weekend...

 

[mtweller]

Ok, I officially could use some help dropping the transfer case in the 4R. Here's the deal:

• Spontaneously decided to take Wednesday afternoon off and pulled the 4R in my garage, thinking - yeah, I'll just go ahead and drop the transfer case and get started on this.
• Applied Kroil to driveshaft bolts since they were not moving at all. Ashamed (but not too proud) to admit I could not get any of them off.
• I removed the electronic actuator cover to see what kind of mess I am in store for, and -- nada. It was bone dry, grease looked good. This is a huge relief!
• Dorked around a bit waiting for penetrant to do it's thing, retried DS bolts, still nothing (will try them again today).
• Looking at the tcase, I just cannot see - literally because my eyeballs are getting that bad - all of the bolts I need to remove to separate it from the transmission.

Here are the things working against me: eyesight, brain, strength. If anyone wants to swing by, I would be grateful for any help. I have the parts and tools to do the job and really just need a hand getting this thing off the truck - and may need help when it comes time to reinstall.

Do you have a "big dog" impact?

 

[little_joe]

Do you have a "big dog" impact?

Just a Dewalt 20v impact, it is the medium duty (300 ft lbs?). My neighbor has a crazy Milwaukee I can borrow. However, it's virtually or just impossible to get a socket on the DS nuts and bolts. Going to try them again in a bit anyway...

 

[little_joe]

Do you have a "big dog" impact?

So this goes down in the Derp Hall of Fame, and hence my comment about lacking in the Brain department.

If one were to spin the direvshaft such that you could get a socket on the nut/bolt, the impact zips 'em right off.

Thanks for the help Ramon, but also thank you for the reminder of what a fundamentally developmentally-disabled chump I am! Now I'll get the driveshafts off after work today, and post back here when I hit the next roadblock erected by my stoopidity.

 

[mtweller]

So this goes down in the Derp Hall of Fame, and hence my comment about lacking in the Brain department.

If one were to spin the direvshaft such that you could get a socket on the nut/bolt, the impact zips 'em right off.

Thanks for the help Ramon, but also thank you for the reminder of what a fundamentally developmentally-disabled chump I am! Now I'll get the driveshafts off after work today, and post back here when I hit the next roadblock erected by my stoopidity.

I'm not certain you can fit a socket in there or not. On a 40 - you can't. Other vehicles you can... hope that is the case for you. (unless you are saying you have already confirmed you can, in which case AWESOME!)

 

[JohnVee]

I’m considering buying one of those induction heater tools for loosening stuck bolts. I have a very large wake of rust, impatience, and broken bolts behind me.

 

[little_joe]

I'm not certain you can fit a socket in there or not. On a 40 - you can't. Other vehicles you can... hope that is the case for you. (unless you are saying you have already confirmed you can, in which case AWESOME!)

Got a socket on them, it was just my lack of critical thinking skillZ that prevented me previously.

@JohnVee a what?

 

[afgman786]

Got a socket on them, it was just my lack of critical thinking skillZ that prevented me previously.

@JohnVee a what?

Oh they are magical! The ones I've seen aren't cheap but they are like cheating with seized bolts. Basically a coil that you would put around the rusted/seized bolt and it heats it up and then comes out like it was never stuck. Works better than holding a torch to a bolt. Seen it used at a tech day before and it was amazing!

 

[little_joe]

After dorking around a bit more, I'm done - there's no way I'll ever get this done.

Would anyone around RDU like to take this job on for a fair price? I would be happy to provide the parts (on hand), whatever consumables are needed, documentation on the process + torque specs, and drop it off (it is perfectly drivable). Timing-wise, I can let it hang at your place for ~1 week. Mechanically-inclined and intellectually-equipped people say this job takes 4-8 hours, so fair price to me is actual hours (not to exceed some number?) X agreed-upon hourly rate. BTW the transmission does not need to be dropped to do this.

PM, email (jmiccich at gmail), or call niner one niner, six 1 O, 0 O four eight.

BTW, shops won't touch the actual repair. Their approach is either new/used transfer case, or new OEM actuator that starts at $800 and with labor comes in around $1500-$2k.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Maybe @AJR ? Not sure how full his plate is.

 

[fourtrax]

Joe, got too many thinks on my plate, if i got something that needs done and don't have the time and want it done right. i use David Jordan (919) 552-5600 straight up guy in way southern Fuquay. he only works on toyota/honda, he might do it for you.

 

[AJR]

Maybe @AJR ? Not sure how full his plate is.

I could do it, if you don’t mind waiting till mid March.