Help needed. 2H sputtering getting worse (1 Viewer)

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May 19, 2009
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Hi all.

Currently on our trek to Argentina and in need of some advice. We are temporarily back into the US (San Diego area).

The 2H in my HJ47 started sputtering a while ago, first only at fast idle during warm up, but the problem is getting slowly getting worse and I'd like to get it solved before re-entering Mexico.

It is now doing it INTERMITTENTLY no matter the engine temperature and sometimes from regular idle up to 1200 or 1300 RPMs.

What throws me off is it NEVER does it while accelerating over 1200 -1300 RPMs.

Symptoms: A sputtering similar to what you get when you loosen up an injector to bleed it.
No apparent leak of any kind. No smell of fuel. No smoke of any kind. Except the black puff you get when tapping the accelerator.
Starts right up and then will sometimes do it, sometimes not.

Water in fuel? I doubt it since the problem is getting worse and I never fueled twice at the same place since travelling.

Fuel filter? I've got a dual filter set-up. I doubt this too as the hesitation probably would be worse under load then idling.

Air leak? Same here. If it would be air in the system, I'd have it all the time, not just sometimes. Plus, chances are the symptoms would increase with load while my problem go away under acceleration.

Note that I've been using a fuel additive (Archoil AR 62) that lubricates and betters fuel combustion. The problem existed BEFORE I started using Archoil and has been present to some extend in Canada, the US and Mexico so isn't fuel quality related.

Any ideas?

Thx.

M.
 
How many miles have the current injectors done?
 
See if the problem continues with the EDIC arm completely removed.

(That will determine if any EDIC issues are causing it..)
:beer:

PS: And give up on using fuel additive. (All are a waste of money IMO.)

PPS. And make sure you remove the arm completely. (Some people have just removed the end that connnects to their IP .... and then suffered an EDIC-motor burnout when the rod has moved and become jammed against something.)
 
How many miles have the current injectors done?

Thanks for the reply.

Injectors had about 4000kms when problem first showed up. Currently about 16,000kms (10,000 miles) on them since complete engine rebuild. Injector nozzles were replaced and injectors were bench tested to be well within specs before being installed.

M.
 
See if the problem continues with the EDIC arm completely removed.

(That will determine if any EDIC issues are causing it..)
:beer:

PS: And give up on using fuel additive. (All are a waste of money IMO.)

PPS. And make sure you remove the arm completely. (Some people have just removed the end that connnects to their IP .... and then suffered an EDIC-motor burnout when the rod has moved and become jammed against something.)


EDIC failed a couple of months ago so now using a good old cable system. Cable is "marine" type so I'm able to push to over fuel at start up, pull back to "run" and pull out some more to stop. One thing I still have to try is to "overfuel it" when the problem occurs.

The 2H is turboed and I've lowered my EGTs by 100 -150 degrees since using Archoil so happy about that as it makes available power more usable.

Thx.

M.
 
Is your primer pump OK? Not sure if a 2H has one, but on the 3B they can be a culprit.
 
There is a lift pump on the 2H, and a Primer Pump.. both easy changes.
 
I do have a spare primer pump I may try but, as I mentionned, wouldn't an air or fuel leak be present at all times? And wouldn't the problem actually get worse under load?

Thx.

M.
 
Was the fuel injection pump tested?
When primer pumps let air into the system it usually causes hard starts in the morning because so much air can get in overnight.
If air is getting in when its running,it maybe around the fuel pick up at the tank end.
 
Was the fuel injection pump tested?
When primer pumps let air into the system it usually causes hard starts in the morning because so much air can get in overnight.
If air is getting in when its running,it maybe around the fuel pick up at the tank end.

Yes it was. It was within specs too according to the specialized shop it was tested at.
 
+1 on the primer pump, just get a Bosch one any way because it's a million times better.

When's the last time you cleared the water trap near the fuel tank?

When was the last fuel filter(s) change, whatever your answer do it again and make sure the seals are ok and you haven't mistakenly left an extra seal/gasket on from an old filter.
 
+1 on the primer pump, just get a Bosch one any way because it's a million times better.

When's the last time you cleared the water trap near the fuel tank?

When was the last fuel filter(s) change, whatever your answer do it again and make sure the seals are ok and you haven't mistakenly left an extra seal/gasket on from an old filter.

Both filters were repplaced before we left (16,000kms) and the water separator was emptied and cleaned shortly before that.
Good places to start investigating tho.
Thx.
 
Is it normal to hear a short "hissing" noise when removing the fuel cap?
Kinda like if the fuel tank would be under vaccum.

Vent issues? Have anyone here ever replaced the small filter like element that is installed on the fuel tank vent system?(looks like a small plastic
fuel filter, probably is somekind of charcoal filter)

M.
 
I have heard of a number of people suspecting their fuel-tank vacuum is causing them fuel delivery problems but I don't recall anyone ever fixing their problem by swapping to an "open-vented cap" (or by using other solutions for eliminating tank-vacuum).

(I suspect my fuel pump could maybe suck my tank so hard that atmospheric pressure would begin to crush it before fuel delivery would become an issue for me.)

Your tank should have some degree of vacuum inside for emission-control AFAIK.

:beer:
 
try running a few feet of clear tube from filter directly to injector pump. leave a loop of hose poking out the side of the hood so you can watch for air bubbles as you drive. if air bubbles are visible, you have air in the system.
Then try running the hose from before the filter direct to the fuel pump to isolate whether the filter/primer assembly is the problem.


this is on my 105series, it was stumbling on acceleration
 
Is it normal to hear a short "hissing" noise when removing the fuel cap?
Kinda like if the fuel tank would be under vaccum.

Vent issues? Have anyone here ever replaced the small filter like element that is installed on the fuel tank vent system?(looks like a small plastic
fuel filter, probably is somekind of charcoal filter)

M.

Mine have always released a bit of pressure when removing the fuel cap. Never heard of anyone replacing the vent filter on the tank
 
Mine have always released a bit of pressure when removing the fuel cap. ...

I think you mean "has always sucked in a bit of air" because you've accidentally said the reverse Rosco...
 
Yeah , I got the gist of his post wrong but I'm pretty sure my tank has a small amount of pressure.
 
Disconnect the hose between the lift pump and the filter at the filter end. Pump the hand pump a couple of times into a small bottle. Does it seem to pump strong without air bubbles and without any leaks from any part of the lift pump? When you stop pumping, hold the open end of the tube up.. does the fuel run back down the tube towards the pump?

If any problems replace the hand piston, it´s a <$10 part. You can also replace the lift pump valves or clean them in gasoline, replace the rubber O rings and put a new copper washer where the hand plunger joins the lift pump. Very easy and cheap bit of maintenance. I´d be inclined to do this anyway to rule it out early even if the problem turns out being somewhere else.
 

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