Ahhhhhh, I see. Thanks
Help me plan for a 2FE (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RockDoc
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Well, Im searching for a newer 2F now. I'm going to go down and see if it looks like I can machine those mounting holes myself though. Problem is, my '77 2F isn't here with me now so I can't compare. Does anyone know if they added material in those areas of the block when they added the holes?
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Neither. The pictured skinny rod w/ no forge stamping, and a flattop piston with 4 rings is 1973-4 F engine. Toss in scrap pile.
OK, that mystery solved. Thanks
Alright, as far as the PS mounting holes go, I could barely see the PS pump through all the vacuum lines and smog apparatus, much less see its mounting detail
but it doesn't appear that there are any bosses, extra material, or locating surfaces for it on the block. I may just try and machine those holes myself . . . as long as that is the ONLY signiicant difference between early and late 2F blocks. That's the inpression I'm getting from the responses and the ""best" 2F" thread. If anyone knows differently or thinks I shouldn't, tell me now please.
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Well, maybe not . . . I may have latched on to a later 2F. A strong runner with good compression and no leaks, was rebuilt sometime in the past. What do you think about forgetting the rebuild, slapping on the new head et al and calling it good? Maybe rework and shave the head a bit???
BTW, do you think there will be enough increase in torque to allow me to run 33" tires while retaining the 3.70 diffs?
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Try the used engine. Before the head is removed, run a compression test. While the head is off, inspect the bores. If it's good, then it's good.
No increase in torque is required to run 33" tires. Just an increase in patience.
No increase in torque is required to run 33" tires. Just an increase in patience.
1911
chupacabra
I run 33" tires with my stock 3.70 diffs and 2F in my 1980 and really like the rubber overdrive. The lower 1st gear in my H41 helps starting out but even before I swapped that in it still did OK.
ROC DOC did you have to do anything special to mount your auto tranny?
I am thinking about doing this to a 1992 fj80 and would like to use the stock tranny.
Thanks for any info.
I am thinking about doing this to a 1992 fj80 and would like to use the stock tranny.
Thanks for any info.
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- #290
For the 62, it was a straight bolt up as the back of the 2F and 62 3FE crank are essentially the same (make sure you remove the bearing from the back of the 2F crank if it isn't already out). For the 80, there is something to do with the mounting of the flexplate to the crank that is different from the 62 (bolt diameter? I can never remember). If the 2F crank can't be made to work with the 80 flexplate, it should be as simple as sourcing the flexplate and bolts from a 62. I think there is some mention of it in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/373166-2fe-into-fj80-discussion.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/373166-2fe-into-fj80-discussion.html
- Thread starter
- #291
Quick update. I've been pushing my 33x12.5 bias swampers for the last few weeks, and the 2FE has done a much nicer job of it than the 3FE ever did. On the highway the truck burbles along in OD locked turning 1900 rpm and gets as good of mileage doing it as pushing stock sized radials (stock gearing in the diffs). No downshifting, no lugging, it just goes. Think my next set of street tires are going to be 31s or 32s.
The metallic chatter noise has only popped up once or twice in the past few months, and I haven't bothered to look into it. I've noticed fairly often that on a light decel the engine control goes into idle fuel cut while I think I am still into the throttle a touch, which cuts the whole getup into compression braking (which seems to be more effective than it was with the 3FE). Again, haven't looked into it, figure it is either a result of the overbored throttle body (I wouldn't do this again on another build, I feel I have lost some light throttle control to the larger diameter) or perhaps the TPS need some adjusting to get the idle contact to close in the right spot.
Think my next set of street tires are going to be 31s or 32s.The metallic chatter noise has only popped up once or twice in the past few months, and I haven't bothered to look into it. I've noticed fairly often that on a light decel the engine control goes into idle fuel cut while I think I am still into the throttle a touch, which cuts the whole getup into compression braking (which seems to be more effective than it was with the 3FE). Again, haven't looked into it, figure it is either a result of the overbored throttle body (I wouldn't do this again on another build, I feel I have lost some light throttle control to the larger diameter) or perhaps the TPS need some adjusting to get the idle contact to close in the right spot.
So would you do a 2FE with a rebuild again?
My FJ 60 is in need of an engine. I have a 1981 2F longblock I could put in or I could make it a 2FE with the 3FE I have sitting here.
My FJ 60 is in need of an engine. I have a 1981 2F longblock I could put in or I could make it a 2FE with the 3FE I have sitting here.
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- #293
If you like the play value of tearing into the engine (tell me you don't ), I would go 2FE. I can tell you that the change from a 3FE has made me happy, and the 3FE beats the 2F on paper...... I may one day mate the 3FE I pulled to a manual and put it in a truck, but asside from the convenience of simply bolting in something that is already together, I think the 2FE build is a no-brainer.
I believe putting it into a 60 you avoid the accessory reworking and trade that for a bit of wiring work to mate the engine wiring to the chassis wiring (5 or 6 wires IIRC from other threads). The 81 has flat-top pistons, right?
), I would go 2FE. I can tell you that the change from a 3FE has made me happy, and the 3FE beats the 2F on paper...... I may one day mate the 3FE I pulled to a manual and put it in a truck, but asside from the convenience of simply bolting in something that is already together, I think the 2FE build is a no-brainer.I believe putting it into a 60 you avoid the accessory reworking and trade that for a bit of wiring work to mate the engine wiring to the chassis wiring (5 or 6 wires IIRC from other threads). The 81 has flat-top pistons, right?
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My 2FE rocks. I was pulling I-17 between Phoenix and Flagstaff and was able to keep the tranny in 5th gear on all the hills but one. Granted, I was driving a relatively light FJ40, but I was triple-deck loaded with camping gear. My buddy in his FZJ80 couldn't keep up.
Love this engine.
Love this engine.
We are finishing up a 2FE build. Our transfer case is an earlier 4 speed case with no wiring for the 4WD wire to the ECU. What have you all done to wire that?
What about ignition switch? Are you all running a later model switch?
Last thing is the fuel line from the Summit electric pump to the fuel rail. What type of fitting or configuration have you used to get from the male fitting on the hard line to the barb fitting on the pump?
TIA
What about ignition switch? Are you all running a later model switch?
Last thing is the fuel line from the Summit electric pump to the fuel rail. What type of fitting or configuration have you used to get from the male fitting on the hard line to the barb fitting on the pump?
TIA
Transfer case: You use the wire to the dash light.
Ignition switch: Doesn't matter. Power is power.
Fuel line: I'm not using the flare fitting on the fuel rail to the pump. I'm using hose clamps. That said. You can get creative. Use the hose from the fuel filter to the hardline behind the head and cut off the banjo, clamping the cut end to the pump.
Pappy, thanks for the quick reply. Rockdoc sorry for the hijack...love your work and ingenuity!
We have the wire from ecu to the dash singled out, but i'm wondering what to connect it to. Like i mentioned there isn't a switch on out transfer case. It looks like on the 80 we harvested our 3FE from had a wire from the CDL switch. Should we just use a switch when we are in 4-wheel drive to send a signal to the ECU?
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Why would the ECU care about 4wd status? This is not an OBD2 CAN-Bus management system.
Good question, but it does for some reason. The ECU also has a wire for the brake lights.
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- #300
Mileage has been getting better lately, and is oh so close to what the 3FE got (560km calculated range a few weeks ago, 590km calculated range today, 600-610km with 3FE when I intentionally ran it dry). Hopefully I'll get some fresh O2 sensors and a free-flowing muffler in a month or two and it will climb a bit more.
As it stands, it looks like about a 30% bump in power with a mileage penalty of <10%, maybe no penalty when all is said and done.
As it stands, it looks like about a 30% bump in power with a mileage penalty of <10%, maybe no penalty when all is said and done.
