Help me identify this engine rattling noise! Video included

[FloridaFJ80]

Hey guys,

If you have been following my build thread (below in my sig - v2.0) I bought a used engine and rebuilt the top end, didnt do anything to the block as it had come with a warranty and the company I bought it from stand behind their motors.

Engine had the head rebuilt, complete valve job, all I did with the block was clean it and prep it for a new headgasket. Engine came from a rollover and it had 100k on it. I should've did the work to the block but I was tight on funds.

Got the engine in, put everything together started it up and I have this rattling noise coming from the bottom of the engine towards the front.

I installed a brand new timing cover, and i rebuilt the power steering pump, put in a new bearing. I have checked that the front main pulley is torqued to specs, I also put in new OEM belts, and OEM belts tensioners, New AC compressor, new alternator. So no hardware was reused all pulley and bearings have been replaced with OEM counterparts.

I removed the AC compressor belt and the noise is still there.

I am attaching the video please help me identify what it could be. or what I can check up on!

 

[BILT4ME]

Jeebus Crepes! That sounds horrible!

Since you rebuilt the PS pump, did you bleed all the air out of it? Get a mechanics stethoscope from HF for about $15 and isolate it. I'm thinking PS pump.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

I didnt bleed the pump itself. I did bleed the lines with the front on jack stands and moving the steering wheel left to right.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

How do you bleed the pump?

 

[CruiseOrlando]

^^^ you did it right.

If you put your hand on the oil pan (assuming it's not too hot), does it feel stronger from front/back?

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

I'm just saying what I have seen In the past Frank. Sometimes in rollovers connecting rod bearings fail and cause a knock. I have also been told of bent connecting rods as well In engines that have been In a rollover. Good Luck.!

 

[LFD2037]

Take all the belts off and see if it still does it. If it does then it's internal.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Gonna go to HF and buy a mechanics stethoscope and see what happens.. Would you guys drive it like this???

 

[CruiseOrlando]

You can do a redneck stethoscope as well. Take a wooden dowel (3' or so) and place it on the block somewhere. Then put the other end up to the side of your face by your ear. Don't put it IN your ear

You'll be able to hear the noise - not as well as with the real deal, but it works in a pinch.

 

[BILT4ME]

No, I would not drive it.

 

[BILT4ME]

What's the oil pressure reading like? It could also be the oil pump gear binding or check valve hanging up inside the oil pump cover.

By chance did you check the clearances from the top of the piston to the top of the block on all cylinders to verify if a rod was bent? whileemptyheadsdream makes a valid point because in a rollover, the fluids can get into the combustion chamber and hydraulic a cylinder, bending a rod if the engine is still running when it goes over.

Good Luck!

I'm still guessing oil pump or PS pump.

Did you replace the water pump? Maybe it got smacked in the rollover and the vanes of the pump are dragging internally... Just fishing....

 

[Qball]

Wow you got oil?

 

[FloridaFJ80]

There is Oil in the engine, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic. Water pump is brand new. Timing cover is brand new, comes with oil pump cover and a new oil pump spring. all parts are OEM. Oil pressure marks as it should but when accelerating to 3000rpm doesnt go over the mid gauge.

I will check to see more of the noise wherabouts via the stethoscope method.

Here is another video.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

You might consider draining the oil, but when you do, use some cloth to filter the oil - preferably a light colored cloth like an old t-shirt or something.

Look in the shirt after the oil is drained out for signs of metal. I hope you don't find any. You can always put the oil back in after capturing (if you have a clean container to start with!) - I know that ain't cheap oil you have in there!

 

[FloridaFJ80]

You might consider draining the oil, but when you do, use some cloth to filter the oil - preferably a light colored cloth like an old t-shirt or something.

Look in the shirt after the oil is drained out for signs of metal. I hope you don't find any. You can always put the oil back in after capturing (if you have a clean container to start with!) - I know that ain't cheap oil you have in there!

Thanks I will do this.. Yeah this Rotella oil aint cheap.. Hopefully we find the culprit as I want to get my new rig on the road.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Some block pictures from when I had the engine on the stand

Cylinders 1-3

Cylinders 4-6

 

[LFD2037]

There is Oil in the engine, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic. Water pump is brand new. Timing cover is brand new, comes with oil pump cover and a new oil pump spring. all parts are OEM. Oil pressure marks as it should but when accelerating to 3000rpm doesnt go over the mid gauge.

I will check to see more of the noise wherabouts via the stethoscope method.

Here is another video.

My pressure is above 3rd mark (3/4 up) anytime above ~2K RPM. I still say remove the belts. It could be an AC clutch bearing, PS pump or pulley, idler pulley.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Just a thought, If i were to rule out my PS pump. Can I remove it cover the hole with something and run the engine briefly to see if the noise goes away?

 

[YinDW]

This is the exact same noise I was getting from the power steering gearbox. The check valve in the valve body is rattling back and forth. It also affected oil pressure.

I thought it was a rod bearing but it wasn't.

How is the steering? Stiff?

If you get a stethescope, I bet you will find the noise the loudest on the output pipe from the ps pump.

 

[Kief]

If I have an engine apart I run OK std. oil in it initially so I can dump it after 1k miles or less once everything checks out. Did you do anything with the timing chain? The tensioner has a hook, is it released? See if you can see something down the front with the valve cover off. The timing chain should have been replaced if not already. 200k on the bottom end is possibly 1/2 life so don't feel too bad, plastigauge is a quick way to check bearing clearances.

I second the recommendation to remove all the belts, rotate by hand/wrench- listen with a stethoscope, rotate accesories. I can't remember but are there baffles that might be contacting the crankshaft? Then as suggested above, check out the oil when draining or drain into a light colored super-clean bucket, then drop the pan (s). I can't remember if the bottom pan lets you access much.

I would recommend removing the power steering box and turning it by itself before pulling the pan- I don't know about running it but I think it would be messy- but if brief and covered up would probably be fine