Help me diagnose my battery, please

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NY2LA

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 4, 2020
Threads
90
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516
Location
New Jersey/NYC
As I posted in another thread, I recently realized that my stock battery was struggling to maintain adequate voltage after I installed an auxiliary 360watt charger for my Yeti power station, even though the engine was running. After topping the battery off with an external Battery Tender, this issue was resolved by the next day.

I now have a CTEK 5amp battery maintainer onboard. This morning, after being plugged in overnight, the battery was up to level 7 (float), which is the maximum it reaches for short-term storage conditions.

But after driving around town today, doing nothing special, I plugged the maintainer back in late tonight and noticed I was starting back on level 3. This is the bulk level, indicating less than 80% charge. After about 1 or 2 hours, I reached level 4 (absorption), indicating somewhere between 80% and 100%.

My aux charger continues to work fine, with no voltage drop interruptions. But it seems odd to me that my battery would fall below 80% so quickly. With the car off, the only parasitic leak I'm aware of is my Compustar. With the car on during the past few weeks, I'm charging my Yeti one way or another at about 300 to 500 watts, running a We Reach cell booster, and that's about it. Most of my other accessories, other than the ones connected to the Yeti, are wired through a Switch Pros and have barely been touched the past few weeks.

Is it normal for the battery to dip below 80% so quickly?

Or could this be an artifact of the battery maintainer?

What could be happening here? I have a 2020 Heritage, with about 22K on it.
 
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How long was in plugged in for after your trip? It takes a while for the sensors to calibrate to current battery level. I have a new 2020 that I leave on a battery charger and even after a 100 mile trip, I’ll plug it in and it’s initial reading is 40%. After an hour or so, it figures out the battery is actually fully charged and goes to maintain/trickle.
 
Or could this be an artifact of the battery maintainer?

Yes, what you are observing is an artifact of the CTEK charger.

Every time I plug in my CTEK charger it immediately shows 2 lights, shortly after 3 then 4. Stays there for a while, then progresses up its "ladder" of lights until it reaches Float stage.

The number of lights showing on the charger is NOT an accurate reflection of the actual state of charge of your battery. The lights are an indication of what stage the charger is in as far as evaluating and then charging/maintaining your battery.

The charger behavior you describe is perfectly normal for a battery that is in a good state of charge before hooking up the charger - nothing to worry about.

If you really want to know the status of your complete battery/alternator/starter system, you could use something like this: Midtronics Tester

61FXveC--bS._AC_SL1167_.webp


Probably overkill for only casual, non-professional use; but priceless for peace of mind when tracking down possible battery/charging system problems.

HTH
 
May very well be what @gaijin suggests.

Can you remind me what type of starting battery you have? And do you have a voltmeter to measure actual volts at the battery posts?
 
Every time I plug in my CTEK charger it immediately shows 2 lights, shortly after 3 then 4. Stays there for a while, then progresses up its "ladder" of lights until it reaches Float stage.

My NOCO genius does something similar.
 
Thanks for the re-assurance guys. @TeCKis300, I'm on the stock battery.

Gotcha.

The behavior with the charger sounds normal to a degree. Not sure if you're suspecting that the stock battery is weak? If it has ever run dead (perhaps during the wiring harness fix?) or is often run down, there's a possibility it's worn or prematurely damaged, such that it no longer has good reserves. That would exacerbate the behavior you're seeing and precipitously continue down the road to failure.

If you do find yourself in need of a replacement, I would recommend a Grp 31 Deka batt, that is a flooded lead acid which is compatible with the alternator, but has some of the advantages of an AGM. You're one of the true power users on the forum which may benefit from this or perhaps a dual parallel setup.



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Gotcha.

The behavior with the charger sounds normal to a degree. Not sure if you're suspecting that the stock battery is weak? If it has ever run dead (perhaps during the wiring harness fix?) or is often run down, there's a possibility it's worn or prematurely damaged, such that it no longer has good reserves. That would exacerbate the behavior you're seeing and precipitously continue down the road to failure.

If you do find yourself in need of a replacement, I would recommend a Grp 31 Deka batt, that is a flooded lead acid which is compatible with the alternator, but has some of the advantages of an AGM. You're one of the true power users on the forum which may benefit from this or perhaps a dual parallel setup.



View attachment 2776446

I did go dead once--ironically, after an over night in Southern Jersey, where I had driven for service at Kenny Deans. We never figured out what happened then. It was many months ago, so I can't remember the circumstances. But it hasn't happened since.

I appreciate the battery recommendation. What do you see as the advantages vs stock? And can it fit in the stock location?
 
Hey Fellas, I discovered a battery leak recently and the dealer did not cover it under warranty due to its age during my visit today.
After doing some reading from various threads (linked below for posterity) this one seems to be the most recent so here I am.

Im just now learning more about this and the requirements involved from Both @TeCKis300 @bloc 's points regarding AGM and charge profile etc. Tons of knowledge between these two and I honestly owe both of you so much for your help as im sure many others here. @grinchy was doing some work on LTO type batteries which i don't know anything about either that seems to be on hold. :)

I can get a Lexus replacement for $126 and dont currently have any gear to run other than a dashcam. Is it worth to spend double the money for something else?
Are Lexus batteries garbage still? If i were to upgrade I would want to never touch the battery until it gets replaced. No trickle chargers or mindful charging. I also do a lot of short trips and errands. Im curious what the elders have to say, and thanks in advance.

Which battery for normal use AGM or lead acid 27F? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-battery-for-normal-use-agm-or-lead-acid-27f.1036460/page-2

Single battery recommendations - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/single-battery-recommendations.1246103/page-2

LTO Starter Battery - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lto-starter-battery.1251428/
 
I recommend the Lexus (or Toyota Trustart if there is a closer dealer to you). Their regular flooded lead acid battery is right for your vehicle and they supply good batteries with a good warranty.

If yours was actually leaking, it will require some extra clean-up to get acid off everything. Lots of baking soda and water will be your friend. Wear eye and hand protection and be careful. The sulfuric acid in batteries is strong stuff and extremely corrosive.

How old was the battery that failed?
 
Hey Fellas, I discovered a battery leak recently and the dealer did not cover it under warranty due to its age during my visit today.
After doing some reading from various threads (linked below for posterity) this one seems to be the most recent so here I am.

Im just now learning more about this and the requirements involved from Both @TeCKis300 @bloc 's points regarding AGM and charge profile etc. Tons of knowledge between these two and I honestly owe both of you so much for your help as im sure many others here. @grinchy was doing some work on LTO type batteries which i don't know anything about either that seems to be on hold. :)

I can get a Lexus replacement for $126 and dont currently have any gear to run other than a dashcam. Is it worth to spend double the money for something else?
Are Lexus batteries garbage still? If i were to upgrade I would want to never touch the battery until it gets replaced. No trickle chargers or mindful charging. I also do a lot of short trips and errands. Im curious what the elders have to say, and thanks in advance.

Which battery for normal use AGM or lead acid 27F? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-battery-for-normal-use-agm-or-lead-acid-27f.1036460/page-2

Single battery recommendations - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/single-battery-recommendations.1246103/page-2

LTO Starter Battery - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lto-starter-battery.1251428/

Lexus battery sounds just fine. Hard to do much better and many have spent much more to do worse.

Modern cars are easy on batteries and it's not unusual for the run of the mill battery to last 4-8 yrs, if the battery is of matched type to the charging system. Unless one lives in extreme heat regions or doesn't drive their car regularly allowing the batts to discharge or deep cycle. Lead acid batts are happiest at full states of charge.

Curious how your battery is leaking? Through the case or via the terminals?
 
I recommend the Lexus (or Toyota Trustart if there is a closer dealer to you). Their regular flooded lead acid battery is right for your vehicle and they supply good batteries with a good warranty.

If yours was actually leaking, it will require some extra clean-up to get acid off everything. Lots of baking soda and water will be your friend. Wear eye and hand protection and be careful. The sulfuric acid in batteries is strong stuff and extremely corrosive.

How old was the battery that failed?

Lexus battery sounds just fine. Hard to do much better and many have spent much more to do worse.

Modern cars are easy on batteries and it's not unusual for the run of the mill battery to last 4-8 yrs, if the battery is of matched type to the charging system. Unless one lives in extreme heat regions or doesn't drive their car regularly allowing the batts to discharge or deep cycle. Lead acid batts are happiest at full states of charge.

Curious how your battery is leaking? Through the case or via the terminals?


Thankfully it looks only to be seeping slightly from the top. Here are a few shots, its nice having my office by the garage :)
The surrounding area and try look clean and not corroded but the holder and pads underneath it are toast.
What could have caused this? I didn't lift the covers because the warning was 2spooky4me.

Service history shows battery replaced 04/2019.

IMG_0503.webp
IMG_0505.webp
IMG_0504.webp
 
Thankfully it looks only to be seeping slightly from the top. Here are a few shots, its nice having my office by the garage :)
The surrounding area and try look clean and not corroded but the holder and pads underneath it are toast.
What could have caused this? I didn't lift the covers because the warning was 2spooky4me.

Service history shows battery replaced 04/2019.

View attachment 2787389View attachment 2787387View attachment 2787388

Are you in a hot part of Texas? Probably mixed with irregular car use during COVID? Could be a situation of rapid charging from low states of charge combined with extremely hot weather, and the electrolyte boils. Not uncommon for a lead acid battery in those environments.

Other than visual leakage signs, any symptoms of low battery charge or reserves? 2019 is not that old, and if it performs okay, may be able to salvage a bit more life? Old schoolers probably remember the good ol days of battery maintenance and watering batteries (before temperature compensating alternators and smart alternators). Put on some goggles and feel free to pry those caps open, which is pretty easy. It's possible the electrolyte is low and can use some fresh distilled water. Fill until you see a meniscus shape on the surface of the water.

Lots of guides on the web. I just watered to batts in my trailer (daily charging from solar causes electrolytes to off gas).
 
Are you in a hot part of Texas? Probably mixed with irregular car use during COVID? Could be a situation of rapid charging from low states of charge combined with extremely hot weather, and the electrolyte boils. Not uncommon for a lead acid battery in those environments.

Other than visual leakage signs, any symptoms of low battery charge or reserves? 2019 is not that old, and if it performs okay, may be able to salvage a bit more life? Old schoolers probably remember the good ol days of battery maintenance and watering batteries (before temperature compensating alternators and smart alternators). Put on some goggles and feel free to pry those caps open, which is pretty easy. It's possible the electrolyte is low and can use some fresh distilled water. Fill until you see a meniscus shape on the surface of the water.

Lots of guides on the web. I just watered to batts in my trailer (daily charging from solar causes electrolytes to off gas).

A hot part of Texas? 😂😂😂
Thank you for a hearty chuckle my friend! The whole state ranges from hot to literal hell complete with desert and all.

This was a very mild summer in Austin with sustained triple digit heat index. I really miss the Bay Area sometimes… only sometimes.

The heat must be it and driving has been erratic for sure. Don’t know when it could have happened but it did sit for almost a month in March.

I don’t think there is anything up with the battery though. Shows around 12 on accessory and a tad under 14 while running. Starts right up. I may just get the holder and clean it up and water it as you suggest and keep an eye on the gauge. But you know what they say, can’t put a price on peace of mind. I’m probably gonna swap it “while I’m in there”.
 
My toyota battery does this too, also in central Texas. I just rinse it off occasionally with soda and pop the tops every few months to ensure electrolyte isn’t low. Yes I’d replace the holder but it may be overkill.. knock off the corrosion and spray it black and it would be just fine.

A case can be made for the highest non-AGM tier of battery from a nationwide chain like autozone or interstate if you spend a lot of time on the road. The hours and distribution of these places may be better than relying on a dealer in the middle of nowhere if you have a problem. And as long as you get their highest tier the quality is comparable. But if 90% of your miles are accrued in Austin I’d just go with a Toyota or Lexus battery, whichever is more convenient. They are most likely the exact same part.

Odd fact.. I once put a Honda battery into an accord-based Acura I had in the past, assuming the Honda part was cheaper. A month or two later I was at Acura getting another part and asked about the battery.. turns out the Acura part was about 30% cheaper. The parts guy said my assumption was very common.

Point being.. shop around. IF you need one. Personally I think your battery is fine.
 
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