LTO Starter Battery (1 Viewer)

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My AGM starter battery is beginning to fail at about 3 years. Rather than do the sensible thing and replace with the stock lead acid, I've decided to replace with a small 40AH 6S Lithium Titanate Oxide (LTO) homebrew.

There isn't much out there on LTO batteries, particularly as starter batteries, and not much on this forum either. This thread will focus on the design, implementation, and success (or not) of this technology as a starter battery.

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Goals:
Replace the starter battery. However, 40Ah (or 35 Ah as it may prove in use), is about the 1/2 capacity of a 27F Lead acid (full capacity is 80Ah, can only use 1/2), so I don't think I'm giving up much in key off capacity, and certainly gaining lots in C rate for discharge.
Save weight. It's lighter, by a lot. The full, finished pack should be 20lbs with the box and BMS and any other doodads.
Fits in the starter battery space.

Secondary goals:
to try out new stuff
it works - so then can add on six more cells and have a 80Ah starter AND accessory battery

A few basic details first:
LTO is not a 'new' chemistry. It's been around for at least 25 years. It is entering use in the general public over the last few years, as cells from transport buses are replaced and then sold into the secondary market.
LTO is not particularly cheap or space efficient or weight efficient.
Most LTO cells are '2.3v', with 1.8v discharged and 2.8v charged. ->>> 5s pack 9v to 14v ->>> 6s pack 10.8v to 16.8v. It's an awkward voltage for 12v. Works out really well for 24v and 48v though. Too bad we've got 12v systems here in the US.
LTO cells are incredibly safe. They don't really explode.
LTO cells can be flat for months, recharged, and pick up where they left off. It's really unbelievable.
'Yin Long' cells are made almost exclusively for buses in China. A few enter the market 'new' at 45Ah. Many enter the market after several years of use as 'new' at 40Ah. And more enter the market well used between 40Ah and 30Ah. Here's a link to the cycle curve for LTO, you can see why so many of these cells are sold as 40Ah. The toshiba SCIM cells can be purchased real new. BMW used LTO cells to create a starter battery already. These are also on the secondary market.
LTO cells are a lifetime investment. At 10,000 cycles that is 30 years of daily cycling. Think about it.

'Starter' kit
6 66160 Yin Long cells '40Ah' ($200 to $400, ymmv)
1 80A/80A/1000A 'start' BMS specific to LTO Cells (this may not be required) $50
3 ft of 3/8" by 1 1/4" aluminum bar $12
2 3/8" lead terminal studs (+ and -) $10
1 Group 27 Battery Box $15
1 300A coulomb and voltmeter $20
50 m12x1.75 nuts, Aluminum $35
1/2" aluminum washers $10
1 300A Class T fuse $25 (really this should be a 150A . . .)
1 250mm M5 allthread $5
1 18V1.5Kw50A TVS Diode $5


Optional:
1 Renogy 20A DC DC 12v $100 (or similar)

Patience and Time

Challenges:

Charging: I hope to use the alternator to charge. I am totally ok with the pack topping out around 14v. (2.33v per cell). Yes, that is around 35 Ah of capacity). Will it work? Audio guys on internet say yes . . .

Fusing/Breakers: Where? What capacity? How Many?

The unknown . . .?
 
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discharged left for months, cycle test results:
 
Interesting, following to see where this goes.

Couple of concerns I would have:

selecting the proper DC-DC charger to match your pack configuration voltages and charge profile.

DC-DC converter between the battery and main vehicle fusing to make sure the vehicle electronics do not see outside of their standard supply voltage (not sure what that is, maybe 11-15V?)

proper over-current protection. LiFePO4 (and I assume LTO) are capable of very high short circuit currents, often over 10kA depending on pack configuration. You want to select a main catastrophic fuse that has high interrupt rating, such as a class T. You may be able to get away with MRBF, but class T would be a safer choice.

LiFePO4 cells have very low internal resistance and will burn out the alternator if not regulated (assume LTO are the same). The proper DC-DC charger would take care of this.

Are LTO cells compatible with high under hood temps?
 
Interesting, following to see where this goes.

Couple of concerns I would have:

selecting the proper DC-DC charger to match your pack configuration voltages and charge profile.

DC-DC converter between the battery and main vehicle fusing to make sure the vehicle electronics do not see outside of their standard supply voltage (not sure what that is, maybe 11-15V?)

proper over-current protection. LiFePO4 (and I assume LTO) are capable of very high short circuit currents, often over 10kA depending on pack configuration. You want to select a main catastrophic fuse that has high interrupt rating, such as a class T. You may be able to get away with MRBF, but class T would be a safer choice.

LiFePO4 cells have very low internal resistance and will burn out the alternator if not regulated (assume LTO are the same). The proper DC-DC charger would take care of this.

Are LTO cells compatible with high under hood temps?
Charger: The BMS won't pull more than 80A, so I"m hoping not to have to get an external DC DC solution. Definitely a test and see situation. I do not need the pack to go to full V (2.8V/cell). Totally happy with it at the alternator max - let's call it 13.8 to 14v pack (2.3 v/cell). It won't change the LTO CCA output at this cell voltage, and simplifies system and cost. Will reduce capacity as a key off accessory system, but I'm okay with that.

Yes, the cell resistance is Low. I"ve found 800A fuses in ALN format. It's about $40 for the fuse and holder. The thing is, the stock starter battery isn't fused . . . I'm not sure why or why not, and hope to get a good discussion going on this point!!

LTO is -40C to +55C. Lead Acid is similar, rated to +60C. I'm not fussed over that +5C difference. The viability of lead acid in +55C if you look at a curve is near zero. That battery is never going to work again. LTO will at least recover.

LTO has a different set of drawbacks to LFP, mainly weight/size/density and cost. It seems to be superior in pretty much all the other measures.
 
How many watts are used in one car start? I've seen estimates from 8W to 2.5hp. 1 HP is about 750W.
 
The BMS is just a switch not a current regulator, it has no way to regulate current, that is a function of the load. That is why I mentioned the DC-DC charger.

If the BMS opens you could get a voltage spike sent back to the alternator destroying the voltage regulator.

Maybe consider something like this if you are not using a DC-DC charger.
 
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How many watts are used in one car start? I've seen estimates from 8W to 2.5hp. 1 HP is about 750W.

Not sure what current the starter motor draws, but whatever it is multiply that by 13.4V (or whatever your LTO battery pack voltage is) to get the power. Probably in the 200-400A range.

That is power which is instantaneous. kWh (energy) depends on how long it takes to start.
 
excellent points and discussion!

Let's take the 'starter battery' case. The only draw will be the start activity itself. I"m a rank amateur at all this but I love a new challenge.

Battery Spec Estimate: 710A (CCA of 27F) * 5s = 3550A draw (in practice I doubt this is ever real)
Starter Spec Estimate: 12v/1.5KW -> 1.5KW*5s -> calculator says 7.5KW is 555 A at 13.5v DC
Lets take some mid-point and use 1000A as the total start activity draw.
the concern for the alternator is how long will it be asked to run at 100% to replenish this amount of energy into the battery?

For estimate let's use pack size at 30Ah, though it'll probably be 35Ah. Alternator is rated at 180amp, let's assume it's old and tired and is also doing accessory duty and 100Amps are available to recharge.

100Amps against the 30Ah pack is 3.3C. LTO battery is not harmed by 3.3C. So that's ok.
at 100A the battery will be replenished for the 1000A draw in 10s. Let's add on 20% for losses, so 12s.
at 100A the battery will be replenished for a 555A draw in 6s -> 8s
at 100A the battery will be replenished for a 3550A draw in 36s -> 44s

Will 8s at full tilt blow the alternator? 12s? I doubt it.
44s? Maybe? Probably?

So using the pack to drive key off accessories and deplete it down where it had say, 20Ah of capacity (need to replenish 15Ah), which would then require a long full alternator boost for recharge, looks to be a bad idea without a DC/DC charger of some sort to reduce alternator strain.

Did I do all that math right? It seems like 1000A replenishment at 100A/s is too easy?
 
LTO rated at 10C, but curves exist up to 50C, so is the concern it'll try to sink 1000A (in the example) in 1 sec, and that will blow the voltage regulator? Unfortunately in all the reading I've done, I haven't seen anything other than bomping car stereos and some high (400A plus) synthetic loads. Not much on how integrate into a car system and control the charge cycle.
 


Unfortunately it does not say how long it took to see the magic smoke at 1500 rpm? 2s? 10s? 100s? 24 hrs?
 
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looks like I'll be adding a DC to DC converter or charger to the BOM. Not sure at this point whether it will be the $$$ or the $ version.

From all I can find quickly the 5.7l alternator is not temperature sensing.
 
the alternator in the 200 is indeed temperature compensating. On my truck, the output was ~13.9V when cold and dropped down to ~13.4 when warmed up. With a DC-DC charger this is really not an issue.
 
basic DC DC buck converter? These range from $10 to $200

Less basic:
Amazon product ASIN B01M0YCDJ8

If using more "exotic" chemistries like LTO, you will want something that allow customized charge profiles. The Redarc BCDC probably will not work. The Victron Orion as an example has the ability to configure the charge profile. I wouldn't recommend the eBay DIY chargers like the one you linked.
 
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Spend some time here. Great resources.





 
I still think a flooded lead acid battery is the best choice for a starting battery as they are cheap, reliable, long lasting and the vehicle is designed for them. Can alternate battery types / chemistries work? Sure, at the end of the day a battery is just an energy source. As long as they are compatible, and the system is correctly designed and integrated into the vehicle.

I think this is an exciting project, but my feeling is this is only for learning and a sense of accomplishment. There is no financial incentive to doing this, and ultimately simplicity, maintainability and reliability will be diminished.

You mention these cells are used in buses in China. I assume these cells are used to power electric buses and not used as the starting battery in petrol/diesel powered buses. Different application.


More questions I have:

How will you package the cells to survive the harsh conditions of living in an off-road vehicle engine bay? What about the other components in the system? Are they up to the task?

Or is the idea to put this battery in the interior? If interior, is this chemistry safe in a passenger compartment?

Any temperature limits for charging? LFP batteries for instance cannot be charged below 0 deg F or lithium plating will occur.
 
Based on the discharge curve of LTO cells, it seems a 5S configuration may work the best. Fully charged you will be at ~14.25V, and at the lower knee of the curve you will be at 10.5 to 11V.

As far as capacity, maybe size the discharge current to the CCA rating of a group 24 or 27 lead acid battery which is between 500-750A. At 10C that is 50-75 Ah for a 5S pack. If the cells are only 30-40Ah, you may need to consider 10 cells in a 2P5S arrangement.

BMS capable of handing those currents can get cost prohibitive, especially MOSFET (solid state) based BMS. May need to consider contactor based BMS or not using a BMS.

Do you have a link to the cells and BMS you are considering?
 
the alternator in the 200 is indeed temperature compensating. On my truck, the output was ~13.9V when cold and dropped down to ~13.4 when warmed up. With a DC-DC charger this is really not an issue.
The point victron was making in the linked video was that a temperature compensating alternator would just continue to reduce output against the battery load / heat and not burn out.

the 4.5 v8 diesel alternator is temp compensating.
 
If using more "exotic" chemistries like LTO, you will want something that allow customized charge profiles. The Redarc BCDC probably will not work. The Victron Orion as an example has the ability to configure the charge profile. I wouldn't recommend the eBay DIY chargers like the one you linked.
So far the 9a victron Orion (non smart) seems like the simplest solution for a dc dc. I don’t have or plan to have large accessory loads, so 9a charge will be fine. As a bonus to tops out at 15v, so I can get more charge on the batts.
 
I still think a flooded lead acid battery is the best choice for a starting battery as they are cheap, reliable, long lasting and the vehicle is designed for them. Can alternate battery types / chemistries work? Sure, at the end of the day a battery is just an energy source. As long as they are compatible, and the system is correctly designed and integrated into the vehicle.

I think this is an exciting project, but my feeling is this is only for learning and a sense of accomplishment. There is no financial incentive to doing this, and ultimately simplicity, maintainability and reliability will be diminished.

You mention these cells are used in buses in China. I assume these cells are used to power electric buses and not used as the starting battery in petrol/diesel powered buses. Different application.


More questions I have:

How will you package the cells to survive the harsh conditions of living in an off-road vehicle engine bay? What about the other components in the system? Are they up to the task?

Or is the idea to put this battery in the interior? If interior, is this chemistry safe in a passenger compartment?

Any temperature limits for charging? LFP batteries for instance cannot be charged below 0 deg F or lithium plating will occur.
Yep. SLA is the sensible solution. This is for learning and because I like to try new things. Just because SLA is the default doesn’t make it right. If it fails I’ll have the parts for a reasonable house battery. But I think it’ll work fine.

cost - it’s more than an Optima AGM, probably like 3 SLAs. And it’s getting pretty far along to setting up a house /second battery. Does save 20lb weight, and that’s not nothing.

the cells are deployed as the power system for electric buses, as the energy source. At least per one forum post over at will prowse site

location will be in the engine bay left side stock location.

i have a bms on order, it’s the only item I’m worried about. It isn’t strictly necessary, I could use a balancer as needed, and now that the charger is in the mix I don’t think the bms has any real value. A fuse would be cheaper. From what I’ve read the cells are pretty easy to manage and don’t drift much.
 
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