Help, internal handbrake pads are sticking/getting stuck on the inside of the rotor (7 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 17, 2025
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Location
Perth
1994 hjz80, rv model RH drive

anyone got any suggestions cause Im going mad over this, it spins fine when pushed in but any thing past 5mm of seperation from the base and it sticks
im an trying to do rear wheel bearings and axle oil seal replacement but this is putting a hold on it, any help would be really appreciated
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "any thing past 5mm of seperation from the base and it sticks"
Are you trying to simply remove the drum/rotor or are the shoes not retuning to their relaxed position?

If you're trying to remove the drum, you need to loosen the knurled adjuster through the hole in the drum (rubber plug) to relax the shoes so the drum slides off. Hole should be at the 6 o'clock position.

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I'm not sure what you mean by "any thing past 5mm of seperation from the base and it sticks"
Are you trying to simply remove the drum/rotor or are the shoes not retuning to their relaxed position?

If you're trying to remove the drum, you need to loosen the knurled adjuster through the hole in the drum (rubber plug) to relax the shoes so the drum slides off. Hole should be at the 6 o'clock position.

View attachment 3911018
so yeah its the shoes that are sticking, I didnt realise that hole was for that, I suspect ive bent the pins, are they a high stress component or could I just straighten them out

Cheers
 
so yeah its the shoes that are sticking, I didnt realise that hole was for that, I suspect ive bent the pins, are they a high stress component or could I just straighten them out

Cheers
If you're talking about the locator pins for the shoes that go through the backing plate, I'm sure they'll be fine.
I would suggest downloading the Toyota FSM and EWD for your truck from the resources section. Every single system on the vehicle is covered in detail.
 
IDK, just by aware…the primary driver of mine is now 90. He was known for driving with the e-brake engaged and despite somewhat short distances, the friction material turned white and a piece broke off blocking one of the star adjusters. Took me way too long to understand what happened.
 
I thought my rear emergency brake was sticking because it was getting hot . It wasn't the brake at all that was causing it to get hot . I pull up the emergency brake before I get out because I'm on a slight hill . When I would go down the road the right brake would get hot . It turned out that the emergency brake line comes back and connects to a bracket part number 46341 . When you put on the E brake it pulls on the bracket that is just to the left of center of the rear housing .One short cable goes to the right side . That bracket is a pivot point . When you put on the E brake it pulls on the cables and when you let it off it should move back . Because there are about 4 separate washers and plastic pieces mine was all stick and rusted together so when I put the E brake on it would stay on ,on the right side . I had to have my wife pull and relieve the E brake while I took a hammer and banged it in the direction it was supposed to go back to after it was relieved . I sprayed lube in between all those washers and spacers that is stacked up in the connection I finely got it moving freely . Just have someone pull the E brake while you watch to see if the cable is pulling and going back after its released . This may not be what you are talking about but that connection can lock up tight as a drum . I keep a close eye on it now and go under and check the space where the cable meets the wheels to make sure that stopper is close to the wheel .
 

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