Help fluttering noise when accelerating (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DPA200
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Hopefully it’s not but just sounds like the early stage sound I had on both the 100s we had that developed the issue. Not really heard of it happening on 200s though. Shop vac also works Pretty well on reverse and in the past have not ever needed the soapy water. You can usually just hear/feel the air.
- Thread starter
- #23
might have fried my old leaf blower this morning. Started to spark and smoke, but before then i did find this
I just replaced that one. Don’t have your face directly below it when you pull it. Lots of fiberous particles.
- Thread starter
- #25
Did you replace the bolt and spring also, or just re-used the existing? If so, do you have the part number for those?
2006-2023 Toyota Exhaust Pipe Gasket 17451-0D140 | TRDShop.com
2006-2023 Toyota part # 17451-0D140 - Exhaust Pipe Gasket. Order online at wholesale price! In stock parts ship same day. Most non-stock parts ship in 1-2 business days.
trdshop.carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com
I replaced the bolt, but not the spring. I could have re-used mine.
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- #27
Cool, i checked my local Toyota parts and the have the bolts and gasket in stock...no springs so I'll just reuse mine. My bolts are pretty rusty, so im spraying the down with PB blaster now to let soak. Gonna go grab the parts later today. $32.46 for the gasket, i think $3 for the bolts
2006-2023 Toyota Exhaust Pipe Gasket 17451-0D140 | Camelback Toyota Parts
2006-2023 Toyota part # 17451-0D140 - Exhaust Pipe Gasket
parts.camelbacktoyota.com
Yeah, that's much more crusty than mine were.
The other thing to keep in mind is that the 200 exhaust tubing is quite robust. Even with the bolts out it will be impossible to flex enough to get that conical gasket out without undoing the other side. And on that one, the tubing extends into the flange, so the gasket needs to slip off and won't just drop down.
In fact, the other item to consider is that the tubing is bent. Those springs can only pull in with so much force. If an obstacle hit the exhaust it may be pulling away more than the springs can pull it back in. When you relax the bolts you'll see movement and know. Mine did spring apart about 1/2" without spring load but still seals up.
This is the other (driver) side:
And I believe these are the nuts:
The other thing to keep in mind is that the 200 exhaust tubing is quite robust. Even with the bolts out it will be impossible to flex enough to get that conical gasket out without undoing the other side. And on that one, the tubing extends into the flange, so the gasket needs to slip off and won't just drop down.
In fact, the other item to consider is that the tubing is bent. Those springs can only pull in with so much force. If an obstacle hit the exhaust it may be pulling away more than the springs can pull it back in. When you relax the bolts you'll see movement and know. Mine did spring apart about 1/2" without spring load but still seals up.
This is the other (driver) side:
And I believe these are the nuts:
- Thread starter
- #29
So....PB blaster and very gentle breaker bar got the passenger side bolts free without busting the welded nuts off. I loosened a ways just to see and the springs did indeed spring back when i loosened, so thats good.
Now the next issue is the driver's side with this other gasket (90917-A6003) you are showing. On mine it appears like its welded on, i don't see any bolts i could loosen. Is there any way you think id be able to get the original leak area gasket on the passenger side in, without removing the drivers side one?
Looks like someone put some high temp epoxy on the driver's side previously? Or are you saying that it's actually welded flange:flange? Those two bolts on the driver's side are definitely threaded and come apart. I did use a 3' pry bar to get everything back in place, so you might be able to spring it. The cone washer on the passenger side definitely comes off easier than does the driver's side gasket.
I'm assuming you checked the driver's side and found it to be not leaking?
I'm assuming you checked the driver's side and found it to be not leaking?
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- #31
Yeah looks like previous owner must have used epoxy on the drivers side then. I was just talking about all that covering around the bolts/nuts, not the actual flange. And yes did same soap blower test on drivers side and no leak.
so ,with a big pry bar, possibly I can get the passenger side out and then new gasket back in you think?
I would say possible but not likely. Have you completely released the spring tension on the PS flange yet? If so, how much does it open up? There's just not a lot of flex on those parts through the muffler.
The other thing you might be able to do would be to disconnect the DS downpipe at the header. There are three 14mm nuts there that you have a straight shot at from below. Use a 6 point, 1/2" drive socket with a couple of 6" extensions and a breaker bar. You, of course, would need that gasket too (same DS and PS). That might allow you to skootch the rest of the exhaust system backward. However, the studs on the header look down and so it would need to flex down before it could go back. Not sure if it would work or not.
The other thing to keep in mind is that the exhaust hangers keep the system in place pretty well. Even with both DS and PS disconnected, it takes a goodly amount of force against the muffler to flex the rest of the system aft against the rubber isolators.
Downpipe gaskets if needed:
The other thing you might be able to do would be to disconnect the DS downpipe at the header. There are three 14mm nuts there that you have a straight shot at from below. Use a 6 point, 1/2" drive socket with a couple of 6" extensions and a breaker bar. You, of course, would need that gasket too (same DS and PS). That might allow you to skootch the rest of the exhaust system backward. However, the studs on the header look down and so it would need to flex down before it could go back. Not sure if it would work or not.
The other thing to keep in mind is that the exhaust hangers keep the system in place pretty well. Even with both DS and PS disconnected, it takes a goodly amount of force against the muffler to flex the rest of the system aft against the rubber isolators.
Downpipe gaskets if needed:
- Thread starter
- #33
Loving The part numbers today thx! Hmmmm, gotta think on this one. I didn't loosen the springs all the way today, just enough to make sure by rust was busted free, but the springs did open up as i loosened. Is there a torque spec for tightening these, or no because the springs? Really appreciate all the advice
Yeah, they torque down on the shoulders at the end of the smooth section. Bolts are tight but springs provide expansion room.
There is a spec for the free length of the spring: 1.693" (43mm). The bolt torque is 32 ft-lbs. However, that's for new, clean threads. Corroded threads will require more bolt torque.
There is a spec for the free length of the spring: 1.693" (43mm). The bolt torque is 32 ft-lbs. However, that's for new, clean threads. Corroded threads will require more bolt torque.
- Thread starter
- #35
replaced the leaf blower with a shop vac and had at it again tonight. Found a couple more spots on the driver's side now. Not nearly as big as the other leak, but some soapy bubbles.
Is there a story behind this truck? Seems like a lot of exhaust corrosion for AZ.
- Thread starter
- #37
I could write a series with all my stories on this truck. I’ve been known to comment very harshly when people post the “is this too much rust” threads. The basic plot though of all the stories is rust sucks! I bought this truck when it was 5 years old, 70k miles, certified at a Toyota dealer in NYC, where I lived at the time. Drove stock in NYC for another year and a half before moving to Phoenix.
since then I’ve modified a bit, and about 90% of the upgrades my old friend rust has been waiting for me. Has turned simple jobs into half day labor feats. Seized brake caliper pins, skid plate bolts, LCA bolts, even radiator bolts, rotor back plates. Many more things too. My thought process is I love the truck, have put so much into it, and at some point every rusted part will have been swapped out. Just keep fixing and upgrading and eventually I’ll have a rust free ish truck. But other days, I’m ready to call it quits and start over. It’s quite frustrating living in AZ that everyone else I wheel with has never seen the issues I encounter with their rust free AZ trucks. I was heavily considering a 10 LX that was for sale local and has all local Lexus service last week. My wife’s GX has 95k miles and you could eat dinner off the engine or undercarriage it’s so clean. Dunno , lately it’s been 1 thing after another feel like the rust related issues are coming faster than I can fix. Never left me stranded and taken me all over, but some days I dunno.
The two land cruisers I’ve purchased were from CA and the LX from Reno. It’s definitely worth getting a clean truck. But if you’re in NY and that’s what to be had then it’s hard to question the decision.
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- #39
Yeah at that time had no plans to leave NY. Frustrating, had a lotta internal debates on whether to keep going recently. Rear axle rusted back plates I found a few weeks back when doing rear pads near pushed me over the edge when I found out how expensive those were.
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- #40
Out with the old......unfortunately not 100% in with the new. I probably shoulda taken @OregonLC s advice that i'd never be able to separate the 2 pipes enough to get the new gasket in. I'm not one to always listen to advice. My plan for the day was just to replace the old bolts with new bolts, and let my mechanic deal with the gasket and some other issues tomorrow. I then couldn't resist, and started playing with my pry bars just to see what the existing gasket looked like. Just how rigid could this exhaust be? I kept prying and eventually the 2 pipes popped apart and i saw how bad the old gasket looked. 1 thing led to another, and i just scraped all the old gasket out with my small pry bar. I was feeling real good about myself at this point like id beaten the odds.
That was the end of the good portion of my day. Spent about the next 1.5 working on it, for the end result being i pretty much trashed my new $30 gasket, and my exhaust leak is worse than it was. Possibly with 2 people i coulda got the gasket on, but since the gasket has to slide completely over the inner pipe, i person would have to pry those 2 pipes much further apart, while the 2nd quickly slid the new gasket on before getting their hand crushed. I was trying to pry with my right hand and gasket with left, basically got in on, but mushed the new gasket up in the end, and due to the mush the 2 pipes didn't quite go back together completely lined up. I didn't realize those gaskets were made of some flaky croissant like material that starts to fall apart if you even look at it funny.
Then the fun continued. Those 2 springs really really compress a lot. So, once they are completely off, that was not an easy job to compress enough to get the bolts to catch the threads. c-clamps, multiple vise grips, whatever i could try to squish the 2 parts together were used. Eventually got the 1st one in. Problem was with the 2 pipes not perfectly aligned, the bolts holes were also not perfectly aligned. So i was fighting trying to get the bolt to catch, spring to compress, and coming at a slight angle. Sunday funday. Well, i was taking the truck in tomorrow am to my mechanic anyways, so all in all $30 and 1.5 time was lost, but lessons were learned.
That was the end of the good portion of my day. Spent about the next 1.5 working on it, for the end result being i pretty much trashed my new $30 gasket, and my exhaust leak is worse than it was. Possibly with 2 people i coulda got the gasket on, but since the gasket has to slide completely over the inner pipe, i person would have to pry those 2 pipes much further apart, while the 2nd quickly slid the new gasket on before getting their hand crushed. I was trying to pry with my right hand and gasket with left, basically got in on, but mushed the new gasket up in the end, and due to the mush the 2 pipes didn't quite go back together completely lined up. I didn't realize those gaskets were made of some flaky croissant like material that starts to fall apart if you even look at it funny.
Then the fun continued. Those 2 springs really really compress a lot. So, once they are completely off, that was not an easy job to compress enough to get the bolts to catch the threads. c-clamps, multiple vise grips, whatever i could try to squish the 2 parts together were used. Eventually got the 1st one in. Problem was with the 2 pipes not perfectly aligned, the bolts holes were also not perfectly aligned. So i was fighting trying to get the bolt to catch, spring to compress, and coming at a slight angle. Sunday funday. Well, i was taking the truck in tomorrow am to my mechanic anyways, so all in all $30 and 1.5 time was lost, but lessons were learned.
