Help - FJ62 - Coolant leaking from Rear heater core (1 Viewer)

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Bypassing your hoses just makes for a stronger more reliable cooling system, I would also recommend doing it how he suggested. But When you had those lines open undoubtedly you let some coolant out.

Park on an incline with the front of your truck up. Open your radiator filler, slap in a radiator funnel and top off the coolant, Then squeeze fat radiator top rubber hose multiple times until bubbles stop coming out. Be sure to have the heat on full and the truck is cold when you open the system.
 
Okay I did what you said. Truck is overheating still?

View attachment 2916504
You don't have this connected right. look back at the blue circle on the right BY THE FIREWALL in my earlier pic and move it there. Really all you have to do is follow the hoses that come off the pipes that come from under the truck. It just makes sense to close the loop. I also second the motion to top off the radiator and burp the engine.
 
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You don't have this connected right. look back at the blue circle on the right BY THE FIREWALL in my earlier pic and move it there. Really all you have to do is follow the hoses that come off the pipes that come from under the truck. It just makes sense to close the loop. I also second the motion to top off the radiator and burp the engine.
Hey I really appreciate all your help. I’m really not a genius when it comes to this kind of work it always confuses me. Burped the radiator, doesn’t seem to be overheating now.
Attached below: should i switch blue and yellow? or orange and green?

014F6A25-6B2F-4C9E-8ADF-FC4CFC7D489F.jpeg
 
Lets try this another way. Here is a FJ60 diagram of heater hose not sure if it is different for a 62. 87248C is a hard pipe that goes along the firewall behind the motor. I think you need to connect bypass to this and the other end to the small downward inlet on 87249C right there in the U shape.
1644204986064.png
 
Hey I really appreciate all your help. I’m really not a genius when it comes to this kind of work it always confuses me. Burped the radiator, doesn’t seem to be overheating now.
Attached below: should i switch blue and yellow? or orange and green?

View attachment 2916640


this might be a simple to understand TECH topic on the overheating issue ?


- you had a leak that your fixing now

- leaks start out small and get bigger after time

- during the repairs remedy's each time u lost some coolant


- now your system needs to be filled back up to the FULL level

- AIR pockets are now a factor

- REMOVE the cap let engine RUN normally at idle

the air pockets will pass

DO NOT rev engine at all

- watch temp Guage in dash if over heating occurs TURN OFF let cool and try again

the system will self equalize eventually


you follow me here so far ?


if not speak up please

im here to help you in any way i can

so is @g-man , he knows his 411 well too



2ABD36F6-F7E8-4DDF-A3AE-A415D6841466.jpeg
 
this might be a simple to understand TECH topic on the overheating issue ?


- you had a leak that your fixing now

- leaks start out small and get bigger after time

- during the repairs remedy's each time u lost some coolant


- now your system needs to be filled back up to the FULL level

- AIR pockets are now a factor

- REMOVE the cap let engine RUN normally at idle

the air pockets will pass

DO NOT rev engine at all

- watch temp Guage in dash if over heating occurs TURN OFF let cool and try again

the system will self equalize eventually


you follow me here so far ?


if not speak up please

im here to help you in any way i can

so is @g-man , he knows his 411 well too



View attachment 2916960
Yep, gotcha on that, makes enough sense and I think I’ve fixed that issue. Just trying to figure out exactly which hoses to connect without seeming like an idiot. Thank you so much for the input.
 
Yep, gotcha on that, makes enough sense and I think I’ve fixed that issue. Just trying to figure out exactly which hoses to connect without seeming like an idiot. Thank you so much for the input.


@g-man has you covered there

make darn sure u use OEM RED color long life fluid full strength antifreeze too


no matter what


1644206927727.png

1644206945669.png
 
Lets try this another way. Here is a FJ60 diagram of heater hose not sure if it is different for a 62. 87248C is a hard pipe that goes along the firewall behind the motor. I think you need to connect bypass to this and the other end to the small downward inlet on 87249C right there in the U shape.
View attachment 2916933
So i’m in my engine bay and i do not see 87248c behind the motor. i only see 87249c which i have the bypass plugged into the bottom inlet into the metal pipe running alongside the engine.
is the beige engine bay firewall metal rod what you’re referencing?

D17C2DE6-E762-43CC-8CB9-F7714953144D.jpeg


ECF277F2-C5D7-4E53-9417-1F324690F266.png
 
Welp, yeah I’ve been meaning to use this stuff. Every since my head gasket replacement (By k&h imports, btw), I’ve had the regular green in there since that’s what they gave me.


FLUSH OUT ALL the green crap POISON until your water RUNS CLEAR a POWER flush hose fitting is best and tap off your utility sink SCALDING HOT water maks all the difference
 
FLUSH OUT ALL the green crap POISON until your water RUNS CLEAR a POWER flush hose fitting is best and tap off your utility sink SCALDING HOT water maks all the difference
I just might have to do a flush soon. What’s the best reasoning for going red? I’m all about OEM everything but I’m guessing it’s better longevity wise/less wear on components?
 
I just might have to do a flush soon. What’s the best reasoning for going red? I’m all about OEM everything but I’m guessing it’s better longevity wise/less wear on components?




Please Read the entire back side of the parts Label then report back to me for a Teq facts OPEN Book POP Tech Quiz .........



1644210423746.png
 
Hol' Up, OP has a 62 and we're using FJ60 Diagrams. FJ60 and FJ62 have different cooling passages, FJ60's loops around the back of the head and the FJ62 does not.

@fj62steve It looks to me that you have the correct loop in place for a FJ62.
Verify this by checking to see if your interior heat blows hot still, But it makes sense to me in the way its looped.
 
Hol' Up, OP has a 62 and we're using FJ60 Diagrams. FJ60 and FJ62 have different cooling passages, FJ60's loops around the back of the head and the FJ62 does not.

@fj62steve It looks to me that you have the correct loop in place for a FJ62.
Verify this by checking to see if your interior heat blows hot still, But it makes sense to me in the way its looped.
I’m starting to think i’m going crazy over here hahaha. I have the truck running on full heat but i do not feel any heat. But i also never use the heater so not sure if just doesn’t work but it should.
 
I’m starting to think i’m going crazy over here hahaha. I have the truck running on full heat but i do not feel any heat. But i also never use the heater so not sure if just doesn’t work but it should.
Could still have something to do with the coolant bubble I had earlier?
 
I cant tell by your picture really what line is where, Follow the lines and make sure you have an inlet and outlet, Feel the heater lines, make sure they're hot. Its possible your heater core is just really dirty.

What you have looks like this I think.
Im now 89% sure this is what you want.

Here's my super high quality bypass guide.




FJ62 Coolant Direction.jpg
I really am questioning myself too.png
 
I cant tell by your picture really what line is where, Follow the lines and make sure you have an inlet and outlet, Feel the heater lines, make sure they're hot. Its possible your heater core is just really dirty.

What you have looks like this I think.
Im now 89% sure this is what you want.

Here's my super high quality bypass guide.




View attachment 2917032View attachment 2917045
Great diagram!! I’m pretttty sure that’s how I have it connected. Unless there’s something you can see that I don’t. Green line is from bottom of the U shaped hard line right?
 
Great diagram!! I’m pretttty sure that’s how I have it connected. Unless there’s something you can see that I don’t. Green line is from bottom of the U shaped hard line right?
Thats right,

Its strange because the route has two inlets and one outlet, But that's how it was plumbed before but with the rear heater valve to block the coolant circuit when it was not in use. I think the best way would be to get brass plugs and seal off the rear heater's inlet and outlet so you get more flow control for your cabin heater core, How it is now should suffice though.
 
Green is connected to bottom of the U
Thats right,

Its strange because the route has two inlets and one outlet, But that's how it was plumbed before but with the rear heater valve to block the coolant circuit when it was not in use. I think the best way would be to get brass plugs and seal off the rear heater's inlet and outlet so you get more flow control for your cabin heater core, How it is now should suffice though.
Awesome thank you so so much. for more clarificatio
Thats right,

Its strange because the route has two inlets and one outlet, But that's how it was plumbed before but with the rear heater valve to block the coolant circuit when it was not in use. I think the best way would be to get brass plugs and seal off the rear heater's inlet and outlet so you get more flow control for your cabin heater core, How it is now should suffice though.
Awesome thank you so so much!
 
Hol' Up, OP has a 62 and we're using FJ60 Diagrams. FJ60 and FJ62 have different cooling passages, FJ60's loops around the back of the head and the FJ62 does not.

@fj62steve It looks to me that you have the correct loop in place for a FJ62.
Verify this by checking to see if your interior heat blows hot still, But it makes sense to me in the way its looped.
I was wondering about this. That's why I mentioned this earlier..."not sure if it is different for a 62". thanks for catching this.

Also to the OP. Another thing that can cause overheating is a stuck thermostat or a bad water pump. Make sure no coolant is dripping off the bottom of the water pump from the weep hole. And check the big hose coming off the radiator at the top by keeping your hand on it. It should go from cold to warm to HOT. When it's cold it should be squishy. When the thermostat opens it will get stiff and HOT. You may feel the water start to gush through it when the thermostat opens. Not long after that it will be too hot to hold with a bare hand.
 

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