side note: this is why 4-5 car lengths is good offroad
At Gulches 4-5 car lengths could be three trails away.
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Help Bill Upgrade his FJC Thread
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At Gulches 4-5 car lengths could be three trails away.
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Control Arm outcome and Headlight aiming
I ordered the non-adjustable round AllPros.
FYI the rectangular ones now come with bushings. They are the rubber bushings that are OEM for the stock ones. I would have preferred this but the cheaper ones with the urethane bushings were 'ready to ship' and the rectangle ones were 'the bushings are supposed to come in next week'. I've danced that dance before with these small aftermarket fabbers. I want to go riding NOW, not sometime in the undefinable future.
Another FYI if any other FJC people had trouble finding out how to re-aim their headlights after their lift let me know, I finally figured it out. The knuckleheads at Toyota couldn't even tell me.
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I ordered the non-adjustable round AllPros.
FYI the rectangular ones now come with bushings. They are the rubber bushings that are OEM for the stock ones. I would have preferred this but the cheaper ones with the urethane bushings were 'ready to ship' and the rectangle ones were 'the bushings are supposed to come in next week'. I've danced that dance before with these small aftermarket fabbers. I want to go riding NOW, not sometime in the undefinable future.
Another FYI if any other FJC people had trouble finding out how to re-aim their headlights after their lift let me know, I finally figured it out. The knuckleheads at Toyota couldn't even tell me.
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What's the trick? I know there are two adjustments behind each lamp housing but getting to them looked damn near impossible without removing the entire front end.
Well, I had to remove the entire front end to find the trick, but like Columbus said; "once you know how it's easy". I don't know if a caveman could do it, but you can. Of course the front end was off anyway for my bumper install. I just removed a headlight assembly and it became obvious.
At the upper inboard corner of each headlight there's a triangular-ish bracket bolted back to the upper body cross-member. There's a hole in it, just large enough to admit a #3 Phillips screwdriver. That's the one slightly smaller than the normal #2. You'll need a longer than average one. Shine a light down there and you'll see a long vertical groove in the back of the lamp body. If you slide that phillips down that groove it will meet the teeth of a cup gear. It's silver in color if you can see it. That adjusts the light in Z, i.e. vertical.
On the back of the upper outboard corner of the lamp there's a rectangular plastic piece with two small square indentations about 2 or 3mm in size. That prys up, the hinge is to the rear. Under it is the Y or horizontal gear which will probably not need adjustment.
Sorry I don't have pics but I can make some if need be.
Now here's one for the experts. What's the usual procedure for clearing trail debris from between your rim and tire bead? I picked up some twigs in my RF and it went flat pretty fast.
I had this in two tires last time I trailed but since I had the swampers re-mounted on my steelies I didn't have to fix it.
Let me know if the headlight aiming doesn't become immediately apparent.
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At the upper inboard corner of each headlight there's a triangular-ish bracket bolted back to the upper body cross-member. There's a hole in it, just large enough to admit a #3 Phillips screwdriver. That's the one slightly smaller than the normal #2. You'll need a longer than average one. Shine a light down there and you'll see a long vertical groove in the back of the lamp body. If you slide that phillips down that groove it will meet the teeth of a cup gear. It's silver in color if you can see it. That adjusts the light in Z, i.e. vertical.
On the back of the upper outboard corner of the lamp there's a rectangular plastic piece with two small square indentations about 2 or 3mm in size. That prys up, the hinge is to the rear. Under it is the Y or horizontal gear which will probably not need adjustment.
Sorry I don't have pics but I can make some if need be.
Now here's one for the experts. What's the usual procedure for clearing trail debris from between your rim and tire bead? I picked up some twigs in my RF and it went flat pretty fast.
I had this in two tires last time I trailed but since I had the swampers re-mounted on my steelies I didn't have to fix it.
Let me know if the headlight aiming doesn't become immediately apparent.
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Bill,
With the tire off the Cruiser, I'd take some water, maybe some dish soap (tire lube is preferred, but the soap will help in a pinch), and lube up the entire bead. Then, using a tire iron right next to the debris, or long DULL prybar, try to unseat the bead from the rim (probably won't be very successful). If you've got a friend, they could have a grip on the debris, and as you push on the bead. This should give you enough clearance to remove the debris. Don't worry if you break the seal, shop air will seat the beads again (I'm working on the assumption that you have a compressor). Probably won't need to do that, but just in case.
Hope this helps and good luck
If it doesn't, let me know.
Worst case you can use fire to reset the bead in a pinch. Have air standing by, spray a combustible substance inside the tire, apply fire (watch your eyebrows) and then immediately air the tire up. It is pretty shocking, so be prepared
Yeah I've heard of the bang method for seating a bead. I've got a can of ether on board for that eventuality should it occur deep in the woods.
But since I'm in my yard and a half mile from a 4x4 shop I'll try Dawg's method and if it doesn't work I'll tote the tire up to him and get it done right.
Thanks Dan, thanks Dawg.
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But since I'm in my yard and a half mile from a 4x4 shop I'll try Dawg's method and if it doesn't work I'll tote the tire up to him and get it done right.
Thanks Dan, thanks Dawg.
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No problem Bill... BTW, just call me David, or Carp. I don't want to be confused for one of those yappy puppies from Athens...
Let us know what happens.
Let us know what happens.
Bill I have always taken mine to the local tire shop. 15 dollars to reseat and rebalance. + They will rotate for free. Good piece of mine knowing it was done right. Now if I was on the trail. That would be a different story.
While on this subject. SOmething I always cary with me on the trail is a plug and patch kit. It's like 5 buckes at the auto store. The little valve removal tool is handy when try to get a lot of air in the tire to seat the bead. Then just install it back and fill.
While on this subject. SOmething I always cary with me on the trail is a plug and patch kit. It's like 5 buckes at the auto store. The little valve removal tool is handy when try to get a lot of air in the tire to seat the bead. Then just install it back and fill.
Yeah I agree. Much easier and smarter to let a pro with heavy equiptment do it.
I have one of those plug kits too. I always carry them in all my vehicles. When I was motorcycling, and didn't carry a spare tire, they've kept me going more than once.
I was just wondering if there is an in-place method of clearing that debris. It's happened to me three times now already and since I never hear anyone talking about it I thought maybe it was easier than it looks.
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I have one of those plug kits too. I always carry them in all my vehicles. When I was motorcycling, and didn't carry a spare tire, they've kept me going more than once.
I was just wondering if there is an in-place method of clearing that debris. It's happened to me three times now already and since I never hear anyone talking about it I thought maybe it was easier than it looks.
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I have a plug kit and have unseated and seated the bead on tires in the woods before. It is interesting for sure. High Lifts are handy tools
I also carry some ratchet tiedowns, i.e. webbing cargo binders. I thought I'd try that before resorting to pyrotechnics. I saw my 4x4/tire guy do that to seat one once.
Hadn't thought about using a High-lift as a clamp for a bead-breaker. Good idea.
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Hadn't thought about using a High-lift as a clamp for a bead-breaker. Good idea.
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The fire approach is actually very easy and fast, especially if you have on board air to back it up. I had mine reseated and mounted in 15 minutes.
Bill, hows the debris?
Tire is in the back of my pickup as we speak. I had no luck breaking the bead, those LTBs have a very stiff sidewall. I don't have shop air anyway.
I'm getting some things together to go out on an errand run and I'll go by Foothills 4x4 while I'm out.
Kinda was hanging around to see if my control arms arrive, I wanted to see if they sent the bolts to mount them with the sliders I ordered to cover the forward mounts. If not I'll have to run by the fastener shop.
Sorry about that Dawg thing, didn't know your public name, I'll try to remember David, if I don't I know I'll remember Carp. Have to hear where that comes from someday. I'm guessing it's not a bottom feeding fat ugly lake fish. Or is it? LOL.
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I'm getting some things together to go out on an errand run and I'll go by Foothills 4x4 while I'm out.
Kinda was hanging around to see if my control arms arrive, I wanted to see if they sent the bolts to mount them with the sliders I ordered to cover the forward mounts. If not I'll have to run by the fastener shop.
Sorry about that Dawg thing, didn't know your public name, I'll try to remember David, if I don't I know I'll remember Carp. Have to hear where that comes from someday. I'm guessing it's not a bottom feeding fat ugly lake fish. Or is it? LOL.
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I got the tire fixed. Buddy broke the bead for me and I took it home and cleaned it. I posted on the Gulches thread about that cursed mud. Took forever to clean.
But then I hooked up my little 12v compressor and the bead popped back in. Buddy had said that it should go back no problem because it was seated before and was wet and I hadn't turned the tire on the rim. He was right as usual.
He also told me I should have gone with solid aluminum rod for rear lower control arms. D'oh. I never thought about asking him. @#%$^#
He said that he had seen and done many bent and broken DOM tubing parts but had NEVER broken and aluminum one. And if they bend a little you straighten them back out with no loss in strength.
Another typical case of Bill: Ready, Fire, Aim.
FYI for any more people wanting this part he said he can take the original ends and attach them to aluminum rod with Johnny Joints for about $200. Or if you want my AllPros I'll sell them to you and get him to make me a set.
Speaking of the AllPros I got them in mid-afternoon. I got the broken one replaced but not the good one. I spent a lot of time and energy trying to bend and batter the mounting bracket back into shape so I could use the slider I bought but to no avail. I guess I'll have to put it on a lift and use a BIG prybar, maybe even rosebud it. I also had to jack my axle back with a come-along to get the rear bolt in. I'm hoping that won't be the case on the other side since it's not bent. Maybe I can get it in Saturday morning in time to go wheeling. Maybe I'll just go wheeling anyway. Maybe it will rain and I'll clean my truck and lay around the house, or go see my dotter in C'lotte. Maybe one of these days I'll be more decisive. 'Keeping my options open' LOL.
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But then I hooked up my little 12v compressor and the bead popped back in. Buddy had said that it should go back no problem because it was seated before and was wet and I hadn't turned the tire on the rim. He was right as usual.
He also told me I should have gone with solid aluminum rod for rear lower control arms. D'oh. I never thought about asking him. @#%$^#
He said that he had seen and done many bent and broken DOM tubing parts but had NEVER broken and aluminum one. And if they bend a little you straighten them back out with no loss in strength.
Another typical case of Bill: Ready, Fire, Aim.
FYI for any more people wanting this part he said he can take the original ends and attach them to aluminum rod with Johnny Joints for about $200. Or if you want my AllPros I'll sell them to you and get him to make me a set.
Speaking of the AllPros I got them in mid-afternoon. I got the broken one replaced but not the good one. I spent a lot of time and energy trying to bend and batter the mounting bracket back into shape so I could use the slider I bought but to no avail. I guess I'll have to put it on a lift and use a BIG prybar, maybe even rosebud it. I also had to jack my axle back with a come-along to get the rear bolt in. I'm hoping that won't be the case on the other side since it's not bent. Maybe I can get it in Saturday morning in time to go wheeling. Maybe I'll just go wheeling anyway. Maybe it will rain and I'll clean my truck and lay around the house, or go see my dotter in C'lotte. Maybe one of these days I'll be more decisive. 'Keeping my options open' LOL.
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With all due respect to your friend's advise, I'm not sure I agree with his advise. I can only speak to my experience in the cycling industry and the differences between steel, aluminum, titanium and carbon materials for various cycling components.
Without trying to dig too deep into properties of the various metals, depending on the aluminum alloy being used, it is typically more brital than steel, such that if it bends, it has "micro-fractures" within the metal which weaken the material along these lines, decreasing strength/increasing chances of breaking. In cycling and motocross components, if its aluminum and it gets bent, toss it, if its steel, bend it back and it's good to go.
Just something to think about, more research is needed in my opinion...
Without trying to dig too deep into properties of the various metals, depending on the aluminum alloy being used, it is typically more brital than steel, such that if it bends, it has "micro-fractures" within the metal which weaken the material along these lines, decreasing strength/increasing chances of breaking. In cycling and motocross components, if its aluminum and it gets bent, toss it, if its steel, bend it back and it's good to go.
Just something to think about, more research is needed in my opinion...
Not a friend per se, he's the proprietor of the local 4x4 shop with lots of years in the fab and driving of rock buggies. It was a surprise to me but he said his experience was conclusive.
He mentioned the particular alloy and I didn't pick it up. What he said was the alloy had a 'memory' and would bend back without weakening, which the steel wouldn't. This is totally the opposite of my experience and knowledge, same as you.
Didn't sound right to me but he has lots of time in this and I only have a little school learning and some experience with dent repair at BMW.
I'll try to get the name (number) of the alloy next time I see him.
At any rate I have the DOM AllPros now so it's moot.
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He mentioned the particular alloy and I didn't pick it up. What he said was the alloy had a 'memory' and would bend back without weakening, which the steel wouldn't. This is totally the opposite of my experience and knowledge, same as you.
Didn't sound right to me but he has lots of time in this and I only have a little school learning and some experience with dent repair at BMW.
I'll try to get the name (number) of the alloy next time I see him.
At any rate I have the DOM AllPros now so it's moot.
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Aluminum Alloys are almost always light and brittle. Those that are "memory" actually lose that capability over time as the alloy is exposed to heat over 100 degrees for extended periods...I am betting under a truck is not cool and cozy.
Bill is right, moot point, but still an interesting concept.
Bill is right, moot point, but still an interesting concept.
