HELP ASAP

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Oct 28, 2002
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Ok, i just got my 40...and my question is....does the front heater always blow hot air?!? The nob is all the way in, but still at about 30+ it starts blowing burning up air, im dying in the 80 degree outside temp
 

theferg

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It sounds like it may be broken....but I believe all 40/45/55/60s should have a shutoff under the hood....right on the fire wall. It is on the top/back/passenger side of the engine... i will see if I can find a pic...
 

Gumby

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It should have a heater shut off, but they often don't work. A popular fix is to put a ball valve in the line to shut heat off to the heater core in the summer. A downside to this is you can't turn the heat on to cool the engine in an overheat situation.
 
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Yeah, like gumby said. Hadda replace mine, and even a new toyota part didn't perform that well. A replacement ball valve in the cab off the heater core is in my future...
 
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She has a stroker 383, and runs exactly at 190, even after a 4 hour drive in 80 degree weather (new big rad.) i dont think i'll have any overheating problems. I'll try the ball valve idea thanks!
 
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I have another heater related ?. I do not need the rear heater, in fact the motor is shot and I do not want to spend time and $ fixing something I do not need or want. I have already taken the housing off the rear radiator core and moved the core underneath the drivers seat so I could fit a speaker where the rear heater was. I would like to remove the entire rear heater pipe system and core. It looks like where the heater pipes come into the interior there is a t-piece where the rear heater and front heater pipes split. Could I just remove this t piece and insert a straight piece? What size would this piece be, and how would I stop coolant from flowing out when I temp disconnect the pipes to remove t piece? Thanks for any help.
Here's a pic of the heater valve on my '74. Have a friend open and close the knob in the cab, and look to see if the valve is properly opening and closing.
 
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yeah,

i just have a valve on mine, don't have any problems with overheatin, so i just shut it off b/c it gets hot even with the top off.
 
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Can someone post a picture of this "ball valve" fix? I've got a leaking heater valve, and would like to get some ideas / other options than replacing with OEM (at $75).

Thanks in Advance -

Rocky
 

Gumby

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I have another heater related ?.  I do not need the rear heater, in fact the motor is shot and I do not want to spend time and $ fixing something I do not need or want.  I have already taken the housing off the rear radiator core and moved the core underneath the drivers seat so I could fit a speaker where the rear heater was.  I would like to remove the entire rear heater pipe system and core.  It looks like where the heater pipes come into the interior there is a t-piece where the rear heater and front heater pipes split.  Could I just remove this t piece and insert a straight piece?  What size would this piece be, and how would I stop coolant from flowing out when I temp disconnect the pipes to remove t piece?  Thanks for any help.
Here's a pic of the heater valve on my '74.  Have a friend open and close the knob in the cab, and look to see if the valve is properly opening and closing.  

yes, you can just take out the t-peice. You can clamp off the heater hoses to limit spillage to the coolant in the core. Be careful of those rear heater pipes. They are worth a few pennies on e-bay. i forget the size. it's either 1/2" or 5/8" I can check when I get to the shop.
It might be worth selling the rear core with the pipes. my guess is you can buy a pretty spanky speaker box for what you get for it.
 
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yes, you can just take out the t-peice. You can clamp off the heater hoses to limit spillage to the coolant in the core. Be careful of those rear heater pipes. They are worth a few pennies on e-bay. i forget the size. it's either 1/2" or 5/8" I can check when I get to the shop.
It might be worth selling the rear core with the pipes. my guess is you can buy a pretty spanky speaker box for what you get for it.
Thanks, I'll probably keep the pipes for the future. I build my own speaker boxes ;). If you could check I would appreciate it, I would like to have the pieces on hand before I take anything apart, since this 40 is my transportation to get the parts.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
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A good heater control valve is one from a early-mid 60's Ford Pickup. New at Autozone for $6.00
Fits as an inline valve with the heater hose.
The stock FJ40 heater valve cable fits perfectly on the Ford valve and works as it should. Knob out for heat.
It's a ball-type valve and I get good flow through it to both heaters.
Paul
Evanston,WY
 

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