help! 2f stripped headbolt thread (in block)

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adowendt

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Jan 27, 2012
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hey guys,
I am so happy to have a whole bunch of people willing to take the time to learn and teach to ill-experienced people such as myself how to get amongst such great vehicles as the sturdy and long lasting Toyota, in advance THANK YOU!!!
so...
as the title says I've gone and done a mischief... stripped a thread in the block of my !!extremely!! low km 2f with a head bolt (the thread on the head bolt is still fine) after keenly and I now realise stupidly removing the air filter bracket for easier access to the I/E manifold.

I am led to believe the only way to fix my problem is to tap a larger thread into the block and drill out the holes necessary to fit a larger bolt through the head as the simpler fix of a thread insert is not available.

I believe this problem has come about due to rust in the particular thread so I understand the block may be ruined at this stage, although there is a better chance that the block is still fine:bounce:

I am yet to rip the head off for further inspection, just getting a head start on any information that will be helpful to bring this baby back to life correctly.

any information will be helpful especially about the elusive 13x1.75 tap.

ado..

:cheers:
 
happened to me once i measured the hole and lucked out with a longer bolt.dont think i tightened it to 90 lbs though.
 
You can drill and use a US thread bolt and the tap will be cheaper, I had one strip drilled and retapped with US thread and torqued to the recommendedd torque no problemo, Metric taps for large sized bolts suck to find and are expensive, Larry
 
cheers colonel but I'm 99% sure they don't make the size I need if you know different this will be very useful information.

different profile thread is probably the way to go, if the next size up US bolt is less than a 14ml I may not have to drill out extra room through the head, as I don't have a press here this would be a bit tricky.

thanks guys
 
Last edited:
I would definitely go time-serts. They are far stronger in design than helicoils. Determine your thread size and depth. You can contact time-sert for the exact kit you will need. I would also recommend a drill support with magnetic base to assure hole is properly perpendicular.

With the head off, it's a good time to run a tap into the oil galley and block it off. I wish I had thought of that when I had my head milled.
 
It's bad form in my opinion to have non-stock headbolts mixed in with stock.


It's "bad form" because?

1. it's a very expensive show truck?
2. some owners are anal retentive about bolts?
3. We can't do easy?

Just curious.
 
brew8 said:
It's bad form in my opinion to have non-stock headbolts mixed in with stock.


It's "bad form" because?

1. it's a very expensive show truck?
2. some owners are anal retentive about bolts?
3. We can't do easy?

Just curious.
Click to expand...

Because the torque spec is for only one single size/length/strength of bolt. With a different size (and material?) bolt, just torquing it to the same spec as the others almost certainly means that it is not applying the same equal clamping pressure as the other (stock) bolts. Maybe it won't make any difference on a low-compression tractor motor like a 2F, but why risk it? If it were a road-side repair it's one thing, but as long as the head is off already you might as well do it right. IMO.
 
brew8 said:
It's bad form in my opinion to have non-stock headbolts mixed in with stock.


It's "bad form" because?

1. it's a very expensive show truck?
2. some owners are anal retentive about bolts?
3. We can't do easy?

Just curious.
Click to expand...

In addition to 1911's explanation regarding the clamping force likely being substantially different, I dislike half-measures in building and repairing things. So many members on here start out their statements by relating how the previous owner (PO) butchered the 40 by bad wiring, half-#ssed body work, using wrong parts etc. Do you want to be the PO referred to by the next owner for the work you did? I prefer a proper repair when it is possible. These are just my personal views and I don't necessarily expect others to share them.
 
So I guess I hit the anal retentive part right.

I actually do good work..so all you grumpy boys can relax now. I will make a point of not offering suggestions any longer.
 
Time-sert....DenLors Tool free next day air from Florida
1-800-524-9783
 
I can't say much about the other kit, but I had a stripped manifold bolt and the Time Sert kit was high quality and easy to use. Not cheap, but if your going to be torquing that bolt I would use the Time Kit.
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I just got my head back from a rebuild and while torquing it back down I stripped #14 which is up against the fire wall. After reading this thread, I decided to use a time-sert. I called the manufacturer and they do not offer a M13X1.75. So I decided to up-size the bolt to a M14x1.5 and use the 28mm inserts.This bolt fits in the head without drilling it out, and is much more readily available. The problem is, even with a right angle drill, I can't get quite get square.

Anyone have any clever ideas to get this drilled and tapped short of pulling the engine?
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