Should out last the Cruiser
1/2" Copper T with a short piece of 1/2" pipe soldered in.
1/2" Copper T with a short piece of 1/2" pipe soldered in.
Heater T's the $1 version
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I always wonder what toyota's engineers were thinking when they chose plastic for the T's. Was it something they already had so used it for that reason? was it cost? (highly unlikely) or did they specifically choose plastic over another material for a reason?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Creative. Will you be soldering short pipe in all three ends, for added clamping surface?
- Thread starter
- #4
Negative - the outer fits the factory hose well and the stub fits the smaller 10mm hose nicely also.
Been running the exact same set up on another 100 for 2+ years - no issues
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks but actually it was Macgyver motivated when your T's breaks during a 10PM inspection prior to leaving for Mexico the next morning
My guess is cost. Toyota is buying a bunch of plastic stuffs from some company, and the T's are part of that big contract.
Yes, it would be nice to have the original made out of metal, but so far, the average T's last ~10yr (maybe more).
It's called "Job Security" So you have a reason to bring it in for service or worst, repairs.
Do you sell them?
- Thread starter
- #10
No mainly because - Time, material, paypal fees and shipping would need to be around ~$28 for A set of 2 with proper hose clamps, Worth it?
Sorry I might be way off with this but doesn't copper react with aluminium. Its not the best material to add to a system with a aluminium cylinder head.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Second that question..
Copper and aluminum will undergo galvanic corrosion when they are both in the presence of an electrolytic solution (engine coolant).
This is kind of what I was thinking. I assume very small amounts of Cu eventually react and pit the Al block. That will likely take years though based on the large volume of coolant and small amount of Cu that will enter solution.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
The anodic index of copper is .35. The anodic index of aluminum is either .75, .90 or .95 depending on the alloy.
The further the anodic index of two dissimilar metals, the faster and more sever the galvanic reaction.
Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge
The further the anodic index of two dissimilar metals, the faster and more sever the galvanic reaction.
Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge
Informative link. This part is most concerning as it applies pretty directly to coolant systems:
For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.
- Thread starter
- #18
Based on the anodic index we should start a class action against Toyota for putting a brass radiator and heater core with our aluminum heads. No wonder I get crappy MPG
For those of us who skipped Metallurgy 101, could you provide the punch line...
- Is .35 and .95 very dissimilar? Hard to tell with only two numbers and zero knowledge of the category. If you told me those are very similar because the scale is .0000005 up to 500, I'd have to believe you (remember that part about not taking Met101)
- What's "fast" and what's "severe" for a galvanic reaction in this case?
Or, just skip to the "Don't do it" vs. "Should be fine" punch line
Thanks
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Wouldn't the galvanic corrosion, if any, be limited to the inside of the coolant passages in the head? I can't imagine it'd eat all the way through into something meaningful. And isn't there a big copper chunk on the back of the thermostat, that sits right in an aluminum housing? Either way, I'm going with don't "sweat" it.. 
. Eh heh heh...
. Eh heh heh...
