Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 (2 Viewers)

[hoser]

Not me, I'm waiting for one of our Materials Engineers to chime in.

 

[bloc]

I rinsed the coolant off then let them sit for a few days to dry. These are 200k mile T’s from a 2013 landcruiser, and they are basically factory-perfect.

Again, I’d like to know why some are flawless and others fail.

I did drain/fill coolant around 105k miles.
I almost never use the rear heat, though no idea what the PO did for the first 100k. However this really shouldn’t matter as I believe the circuit flows wide open any time the engine is running.
I live in a warm climate with consistent temps over 100f every summer.

I will admit much of my mileage is on the freeway, not sitting baking in stop & go traffic.

 

[08URJ200]

Looks like the 2013's came with the updated T's stamped with the markings referenced by gaijin. The 2008/9 T's have different markings. May have something to do with longevity.

 

[bloc]

Looks like the 2013's came with the updated T's stamped with the markings referenced by gaijin. The 2008/9 T's have different markings. May have something to do with longevity.

Good catch.. but.. It wasn't this thread but I'm pretty sure I remember a report of a vehicle newer than mine suffering a failure. It stood out to me because I also assumed build year could have introduced upgrades. Not sure how I'd find that.. time to do some digging I guess.

 

[mark71]

I wonder if using non-SLLC was involved with any of the known failures.

 

[Searcher SA]

This might help explain why the T's made from PA6T-GF35 are in better shape than those made from PA66-GF30.

Quote:

"PA6T introduces a large number of benzene rings on the basis of aliphatic chains. Compared with traditional PA6 and PA66, PA6T has higher Tg, lower water absorption, dimensional stability and good heat resistance."

 

[08URJ200]

I wonder if using non-SLLC was involved with any of the known failures.

Not in my case afaik. Replaced coolant at 100k along with radiator due to infamous crack. Everything else on this truck was/is completely stock. Technically mine didn't fail either, rather broke during removal. So we don't know how much longer they would have lasted if left untouched.

The take away for me is, if you have PA66-GF30 stamped on your factory assemblies, you might want to consider swapping to the new updated parts. This truck will disintegrate on the outside before I will ever need to change those again.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Swapped my tees today with new OE tees and OE hose clamps I picked up in the recent sale.

At only 160k miles on my 2010 LC, I was expecting the tees to be in fine shape still. However, one started to fall apart upon removal, with one of the flanged ends breaking off inside the hose. This was the lower tee, closer to the engine, flange facing the firewall.

Looks like I was justified in replacing them.

 

[linuxgod]

Swapped my tees today with new OE tees and OE hose clamps I picked up in the recent sale.

At only 160k miles on my 2010 LC, I was expecting the tees to be in fine shape still. However, one started to fall apart upon removal, with one of the flanged ends breaking off inside the hose. This was the lower tee, closer to the engine, flange facing the firewall.

Looks like I was justified in replacing them.

View attachment 3682280

Ultimately how long does the replacement take you guys?

 

[bloc]

@linuxgod Mine were less than 20 minutes but I didn’t have any problems with them falling apart.

Hopefully your 2013 is the same. I’d be curious if yours are in similar good shape as mine.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

A leisurely half hour. Half a banana job, and minimal spilled coolant.

 

[08URJ200]

Per gaijin’s research, replacing the T’s alone does not get you the updated T with the superior material complex (PA6T-GF35). If you have at least a 2013 MY and replace the Ts alone, you are installing the inferior superseded parts. Someone who replaced just the Ts can confirm this by checking the stamp on the Ts they put in…

 

[08URJ200]

Ultimately how long does the replacement take you guys?

To replace both assemblies took about 45 min while also trying to minimise spillage to the extreme. Easily could be less

 

[linuxgod]

To replace both assemblies took about 45 min while also trying to minimise spillage to the extreme. Easily could be less

Thanks. Thinking I may tackle this as I’m at 155k now and if that’s the case it should be pretty cheap insurance

 

[bloc]

Per gaijin’s research, replacing the T’s alone does not get you the updated T with the superior material complex (PA6T-GF35). If you have at least a 2013 MY and replace the Ts alone, you are installing the inferior superseded parts. Someone who replaced just the Ts can confirm this by checking the stamp on the Ts they put in…

Might not be a bad idea to have people post the details on their actual original parts and year model, in case the cutoff wasn't in 2013 specifically. Being able to narrow down on a year range would really help others decide whether to have this on their radar.

 

[4gotalot]

Might not be a bad idea to have people post the details on their actual original parts and year model, in case the cutoff wasn't in 2013 specifically. Being able to narrow down on a year range would really help others decide whether to have this on their radar.

2011 LC
10-10 production date on data tag
114,500 miles as of 7-2024
Both "T"s are PA66-GF30 -factory installed
Pink OEM LL coolant

 

[gaijin]

Might not be a bad idea to have people post the details on their actual original parts and year model, in case the cutoff wasn't in 2013 specifically. Being able to narrow down on a year range would really help others decide whether to have this on their radar.

2013 URJ200L
04/12 Production Date
50,000 miles JUL 2024
Both "T"s are the revised PA6T-GF35 - factory installed
Still on the factory fill Toyota Pink SLLC

In situ pic:

Are there any recorded incidents of these revised T's failing? I couldn't find any...

HTH

 

[RT Cruiser]

I replaced the hoses as a set from Toyota recently and kept the Toyota tees in place. I carry the metal tees in the jack stand hold. I’ll probably swap out the tees around 75k miles.

I recommend everyone keep 1-2 of the metal tees and a serpentine belt in the cruiser as a backup.

 

[Rpreme]

Man I didn't know the 3UR had heater T's as well! Dang it, learned something new.

Anyone know what the interval is to replace these? Is it 90k like the 100?

 

[bloc]

Man I didn't know the 3UR had heater T's as well! Dang it, learned something new.

Anyone know what the interval is to replace these? Is it 90k like the 100?

Lots and lots of these running around with 100-150k and only a handful of failures. I'd say 100 is sufficient. Or if you get the new hose assemblies it appears you can throw them in then stop worrying about it.