Heater hose routing, searched all over and cannot find the pictures needed. I'm talking about stock F and 2F. My pics are 2F with an oil cooler. I would like to get pics of other stock routings of 2F's and F's, this comes up so often during Winter and frame offs. I hope mine is correct....
Heater hose routing F and 2F
- Thread starter FJforty
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Yours is wrong, does that help?
Look here for a picture of oil cooler: Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 055 Land Cruiser Oil Cooler
Heater is fed hot water from hose at the top of the head on behind carb. That hose goes up and over firewall to the heater valve, controlled within the cab in your instance. Inside the cab, the lines split with a brass Y connection for front and rear heater. Retern from each heater comes toegether at the other Y connection and the return line runs low, below the battery to the T port connection in the lower radiator hose.
Oil cooler is fed water from the top of the thermostat housing, via a short rubber hose then the metal line on the side of the head to ther rear upper port of the cooler. Retrun flow comes out the bottom port via a formed rubber hose to the small port on the water pump near the lower radiator hose.
You are feeding hot water two directions into your heater and most likely it is not circulating. do you have good heat at all?
The line running over the distributor needs to go to the oil cooler, and the line going up and around the battery needs to go to the heater.
The lower radiator hose is sucking fluid out of the radiator that has cooled, it is also pulling the cold fluid out of the heater core to be rewarmed in the engine.
The oil cooler is simply circulating water past the oil to maintain temp at the coolants temp and take heat off the oil, but it never really drops drastically in temp like the heater core and radiator does.
Look here for a picture of oil cooler: Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 055 Land Cruiser Oil Cooler
Heater is fed hot water from hose at the top of the head on behind carb. That hose goes up and over firewall to the heater valve, controlled within the cab in your instance. Inside the cab, the lines split with a brass Y connection for front and rear heater. Retern from each heater comes toegether at the other Y connection and the return line runs low, below the battery to the T port connection in the lower radiator hose.
Oil cooler is fed water from the top of the thermostat housing, via a short rubber hose then the metal line on the side of the head to ther rear upper port of the cooler. Retrun flow comes out the bottom port via a formed rubber hose to the small port on the water pump near the lower radiator hose.
You are feeding hot water two directions into your heater and most likely it is not circulating. do you have good heat at all?
The line running over the distributor needs to go to the oil cooler, and the line going up and around the battery needs to go to the heater.
The lower radiator hose is sucking fluid out of the radiator that has cooled, it is also pulling the cold fluid out of the heater core to be rewarmed in the engine.
The oil cooler is simply circulating water past the oil to maintain temp at the coolants temp and take heat off the oil, but it never really drops drastically in temp like the heater core and radiator does.
you may have the same problem I ran into. the engine had the oil cooler but the water pump didnt have the bottom nipple for the return off of the oil cooler. a PO had spliced into the upper bypass behind the ALT and made a big mess. I just replaced the bypass hose, and then put a t into the heater return hose to keep the flow going. If you need new hose to work with I believe its 5/8th inch hose...at least thats what mine was (1979 fj40)
Here is a pic of the WRONG way it was hooked up before I fixed it
Here is a pic of the WRONG way it was hooked up before I fixed it
- Thread starter
- #5
That helps a bunch. Thanks guys. I saw Trollholes engine but couldn't figure out the heater connections, now I see it, that multi-color picture is sure nice for tracing hoses.
This all started with wanting to buy an inline water heater. The directions state " Install in return line, don't use this if your heater return line goes to the radiator". Guess I need to return the heater and fix this mess. My heater works fair, the temp gauge reads mid scale. This is good news, maybe the heater will work better. Haven't driven it much like this, the PO strikes again....
This all started with wanting to buy an inline water heater. The directions state " Install in return line, don't use this if your heater return line goes to the radiator". Guess I need to return the heater and fix this mess. My heater works fair, the temp gauge reads mid scale. This is good news, maybe the heater will work better. Haven't driven it much like this, the PO strikes again....
yeah Trollholes engine has to be the most colorful one I have seen. Lots of time invested in it I'm guessing
- Thread starter
- #7
Got it all hooked up. Thanks. Here's why I need the heater so badly.Not sure if the hat makes it warmer or colder.
thats a cool custom top you got there
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
looks like a melted marshmellow ....ummmm
- Thread starter
- #10
After changing my hoses I drove to town, froze my butt off. Changing hoses sure changed how the heater works. One of my added stops was at Napa. Picked up a thermostat and 2 gaskets. Will bust in there tomorrow.
Was the heater valve open? You have to pull out the warm knob I think it is called, it opens the valve on the firewall to let the hot water into the heater from the head. These can seize up over time. I think the plunger/shaft on the top needs to come up to open the valve, you may be able to break it loose.
You can bypass it for the winter if need be to have heat. Just splice the hoses together on each side. the valve is kind of pricey. A ball valve will work for summer, you just have to go under the hood to turn it on and off twice a year. The older 40's were kind of set up that way.
The way you had it, you were getting hot water on the return side of the heater.
You can bypass it for the winter if need be to have heat. Just splice the hoses together on each side. the valve is kind of pricey. A ball valve will work for summer, you just have to go under the hood to turn it on and off twice a year. The older 40's were kind of set up that way.
The way you had it, you were getting hot water on the return side of the heater.
- Thread starter
- #12
I did have the valve open. I should have written that now the temp gauge stays cold, barely moves off the cold mark. The way it was hooked up previously the heater worked, maybe the PO changed the lines and got heat so left it like that. I don't even know if there is a thermostat in there. Will post when I get it in. Thanks..
Damn troll that's a pretty motor....
fixed it.
- Thread starter
- #15
I have heat and defrost, nice. Thanks all... 
Pulled the thermostat and it had no top gasket. Figures.....
Here are 2 pics, one with new thermostat, gaskets and the other with the thermostat in place ready to receive the cover. Used antiseize on the bolts, I would think this needs retightening a few times as the gaskets settle, want to make sure the cap sits down on the top gasket.
Pulled the thermostat and it had no top gasket. Figures.....
Here are 2 pics, one with new thermostat, gaskets and the other with the thermostat in place ready to receive the cover. Used antiseize on the bolts, I would think this needs retightening a few times as the gaskets settle, want to make sure the cap sits down on the top gasket.
It is critical the top gasket seals. I made a gasket from heavy ruberized cork once and it was too thick. Couldn't figure out why it took so long to get up to temp. When I pulled it apart some time later, the upper gasket was deformed and stretched towards the bypass hose from the fluid pulling on it.
- Thread starter
- #17
Gaskets from Napa. The base gasket was surprisingly thick and rubbery, after a drive I put an extra 1/4 turn on the bolts 3 times over the following 3 days with little effort. My blowers front and rear work well so I need to turn the heat down after about 15 min. on the road at 20F outside. The true test, the woman is comfortable but she said it's still a little windy.
don't mind.
don't mind.
Sounds like you got fixed, and if the woman is semi happy than double score. Keep a little blanket in the cab for her, that helps with the windchill off the metal body.
My wife complained of a windy spot for a long time. I never rode in her seat, so I never knew. Let her drive one day, and holy crap, it was like an airhose over there. Found one small hole where a weld kind of melted through on the firewall from the factory. Stuck some black rubber caulk stuff over it, helpled alot. So sealing up the firewall is important. I would have never belived her, if I hadn't rode over there.
My wife complained of a windy spot for a long time. I never rode in her seat, so I never knew. Let her drive one day, and holy crap, it was like an airhose over there. Found one small hole where a weld kind of melted through on the firewall from the factory. Stuck some black rubber caulk stuff over it, helpled alot. So sealing up the firewall is important. I would have never belived her, if I hadn't rode over there.
- Thread starter
- #19
MoCoNative, thanks, good idea. The blanket works some, I've noticed that my leg close to the door is always colder, need to get real pads and some floor mats.
Gaskets from Napa. The base gasket was surprisingly thick and rubbery, after a drive I put an extra 1/4 turn on the bolts 3 times over the following 3 days with little effort. My blowers front and rear work well so I need to turn the heat down after about 15 min. on the road at 20F outside. The true test, the woman is comfortable but she said it's still a little windy.
The Napa base gasket didn't work at all for me (pushed out). I bought an OEM Toyota and it worked great. I traced out the OEM gasket onto a piece of cardboard so I can make more out of stock gasket material if it ever needs replacing (the OEM base gasket looked to be made out of common gasket material).
The Napa top gasket didn't even come close to fitting on the top of the thermostat. Had to go OEM on that one too...
