Heater hose replacements (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Malleus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The hoses attached to the rear heater pipes are not serviced (sold) separately by Toyota.
IIRC for the short heater hose sections that run to the front and rear heater cores on the left I used straight 5/8" and 1/2" Gates green stripe heater hose cut to fit (rear heater is still installed). Purchased the Gates Greenstripe bulk hose from O Reillys. Only thing is you have to measure the original hoses and cut them yourself.
For the right side I bought a new OEM T pipe hose assembly which comes
with a new T and the two ~5/8" formed hoses for the main heater core (one goes back to the firewall pipe and the other goes to the pipe that runs alongside the head).
For the ~1/2" ID formed water heater hose that runs off the bottom of the T connection I cut a section from a 100 series water heater hose, part number 87245-6A201 (@cruiserdan). I cut it about in half to get that curved section.
The curve in the 100 series 1/2" hose is very close to the OEM curved hose (a bit less than a 90" bend) for the right side rear heater firewall pipe. It worked well without kinking.
Tip: If cutting your own hoses buy a rubber hose cutting tool and sharpen it before using. I've found that if the blade, after sharpening, is swiped first with anything slick with silicone the blade will slide through the heater hose quicker/cleaner, but it still takes some practice to get a nice clean/straight cut with the Gates Greenstripe being a thick hose, IME. Hence the bulk hose for practice.
I'll look through my photos of the install to confirm what I wrote above.
IIRC for the short heater hose sections that run to the front and rear heater cores on the left I used straight 5/8" and 1/2" Gates green stripe heater hose cut to fit (rear heater is still installed). Purchased the Gates Greenstripe bulk hose from O Reillys. Only thing is you have to measure the original hoses and cut them yourself.
For the right side I bought a new OEM T pipe hose assembly which comes
with a new T and the two ~5/8" formed hoses for the main heater core (one goes back to the firewall pipe and the other goes to the pipe that runs alongside the head).
For the ~1/2" ID formed water heater hose that runs off the bottom of the T connection I cut a section from a 100 series water heater hose, part number 87245-6A201 (@cruiserdan). I cut it about in half to get that curved section.
The curve in the 100 series 1/2" hose is very close to the OEM curved hose (a bit less than a 90" bend) for the right side rear heater firewall pipe. It worked well without kinking.
Tip: If cutting your own hoses buy a rubber hose cutting tool and sharpen it before using. I've found that if the blade, after sharpening, is swiped first with anything slick with silicone the blade will slide through the heater hose quicker/cleaner, but it still takes some practice to get a nice clean/straight cut with the Gates Greenstripe being a thick hose, IME. Hence the bulk hose for practice.
I'll look through my photos of the install to confirm what I wrote above.
Last edited:
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks to all for the replies.
@Kernal I had the same thought; they were originally supplied with the rear heater hardlines and that's why there aren't part numbers. They appear to be 14mm, as opposed to the 17mm all the other heater hoses are. Gates has 14mm heater hose listed in their designs, but I can't find anyone who carries them.
I really don't want to use the 5/8" green stripe; it's too big for my nonexistent level of comfort with leaking heater hoses over the engine/transmission harness junction connectors. Even the 9/16" gates is too large, for me to be comfortable with. I'd have to put a wind up clamp on it, and I can't stand the idea of using those things.
I was hoping there was a 100 series 14mmm heater hose I could make work; I'll post over there and see what I get.
@Kernal I had the same thought; they were originally supplied with the rear heater hardlines and that's why there aren't part numbers. They appear to be 14mm, as opposed to the 17mm all the other heater hoses are. Gates has 14mm heater hose listed in their designs, but I can't find anyone who carries them.
I really don't want to use the 5/8" green stripe; it's too big for my nonexistent level of comfort with leaking heater hoses over the engine/transmission harness junction connectors. Even the 9/16" gates is too large, for me to be comfortable with. I'd have to put a wind up clamp on it, and I can't stand the idea of using those things.
I was hoping there was a 100 series 14mmm heater hose I could make work; I'll post over there and see what I get.
There is a 100 series 1/2" ID heater hose (87245-6A201) which is correct for the 80 series rear heater pipes. See post #4 above. You can get an almost 90 degree bend out of it along with a straight section if you measure carefully.
Gates Green Stripe comes in many hose sizes, including 1/2" and 5/8"; they fit their respective pipes perfectly. They do have a slightly fatter OD than the OEM hoses. Also as mentioned above you can order Green Stripe heater hose from O"Reillys Auto Parts (in the US).
Gates Green Stripe comes in many hose sizes, including 1/2" and 5/8"; they fit their respective pipes perfectly. They do have a slightly fatter OD than the OEM hoses. Also as mentioned above you can order Green Stripe heater hose from O"Reillys Auto Parts (in the US).
Ooh, good idea!
Gates sells a simple little hose cutter, works well with occasional use.The hoses attached to the rear heater pipes are not serviced (sold) separately by Toyota.
IIRC for the short heater hose sections that run to the front and rear heater cores on the left I used straight 5/8" and 1/2" Gates green stripe heater hose cut to fit (rear heater is still installed). Purchased the Gates Greenstripe bulk hose from O Reillys. Only thing is you have to measure the original hoses and cut them yourself.
For the right side I bought a new OEM T pipe hose assembly which comes
with a new T and the two 5/8" hoses for the main heater core.
Tor the 1/2" ID formed water heater hose that runs off the bottom of the T connection I cut a section from a 100 series water heater hose, part number 87245-6A201 (@cruiserdan). I cut it about in half to get that curved section.
The curve in the 100 series 1/2" hose is very close to the OEM curved hose (a bit less than a 90" bend) for the right side rear heater firewall pipe. It worked well without kinking. For the upper hose (front heater core right side) IIRC I used 5/8" Gates Greenstripe again (need to check my photos)
Tip: If cutting your own hoses buy a rubber hose cutting tool and sharpen it before using. I've found that if the blade, after sharpening, is swiped first with anything slick with silicone the blade will slide through the heater hose quicker/cleaner, but it still takes some practice to get a nice clean/straight cut with the Gates Greenstripe being a thick hose, IME. Hence the bulk hose for practice.
I'll look through my photos of the install to confirm what I wrote above.
I found that a new out of the box rubber hose cutting tool (there are many brands, same design) that the blade was not super sharp, so I pulled out my blade sharpening tools to clean up the edge. After sharpening a new rubber hose cutting tool it sliced through the thicker Gates Green Stripe easily. A touch of a silcone grease to the blade actually helped decrease drag or friction/stiction from the rubber as the blade sliced through.
if those hoses are the ones i think they are, 1/2" heater hose seems to be the right diameter
when i removed and capped the hard lines, it appeared to me that standard straight 1/2" hose would work for both connections at the firewall. i never went through with it, and my system remains full and capped off, as finding 1/2" hose was impossible due to supply issues. i'd like to put it back into service before this next winter, so @Malleus , report back with what you do.
i use PVC cutters as well
when i removed and capped the hard lines, it appeared to me that standard straight 1/2" hose would work for both connections at the firewall. i never went through with it, and my system remains full and capped off, as finding 1/2" hose was impossible due to supply issues. i'd like to put it back into service before this next winter, so @Malleus , report back with what you do.
i use PVC cutters as well
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
To be clear (I edited my long post above), for the right side heater hoses I bought a new T hose assembly; comes with the brass T and both top OEM hoses which are 5/8" (or close).
One hose is slightly curved for the top firewall pipe to the front heater, the other is a formed S curve that connects to the long pipe that runs alongside the valve cover.
The bottom pipe of the T is 1/2" (or close) and is bare, no hose, so for that section of hose I cut a section from the formed 100 series hose (87245-6A201) to run to the lower firewall pipe which is for the rear heater core.
The original hoses are metric of course but the difference is very slight. I did have difficulty initially trying to get a Gates Green Stripe hose section onto the PHH pipe nipple on the head (with one hand reaching up from the wheel well) until I remembered to lube it first.
So for the rest of the heater hoses I lubed the inside (mouth) of all the hoses ever so slightly so they would slide on easier. IME with proper hose clamps in the correct position these short hoses won't pop off if lubed slightly. AFAIK by the book if anything is used to help the hoses slide on they say to use a swipe of coolant. I've used the slightest swipe of a Lithium base silicone lube (DC Molykote 33 because I have a large tube) and haven't had a heater hose leak or pop off.
FWIW
One hose is slightly curved for the top firewall pipe to the front heater, the other is a formed S curve that connects to the long pipe that runs alongside the valve cover.
The bottom pipe of the T is 1/2" (or close) and is bare, no hose, so for that section of hose I cut a section from the formed 100 series hose (87245-6A201) to run to the lower firewall pipe which is for the rear heater core.
The original hoses are metric of course but the difference is very slight. I did have difficulty initially trying to get a Gates Green Stripe hose section onto the PHH pipe nipple on the head (with one hand reaching up from the wheel well) until I remembered to lube it first.
So for the rest of the heater hoses I lubed the inside (mouth) of all the hoses ever so slightly so they would slide on easier. IME with proper hose clamps in the correct position these short hoses won't pop off if lubed slightly. AFAIK by the book if anything is used to help the hoses slide on they say to use a swipe of coolant. I've used the slightest swipe of a Lithium base silicone lube (DC Molykote 33 because I have a large tube) and haven't had a heater hose leak or pop off.
FWIW
Last edited:
Do the Gate's heater hoses have a tendency to leak?
I am replacing all my heater hoses now. I'm using OEM on all curved hoses, 5/8" standard heater hose for the small straight piece's, and 1/2" reg. heater hose for the smaller one on the right.
The short piece of Gate's hose is being used on the PHH only. I noticed the oem 5/8 squeeze clamps will barely fit over the outer thickness and the small sardine can type will not fit the Gates.
I am replacing all my heater hoses now. I'm using OEM on all curved hoses, 5/8" standard heater hose for the small straight piece's, and 1/2" reg. heater hose for the smaller one on the right.
The short piece of Gate's hose is being used on the PHH only. I noticed the oem 5/8 squeeze clamps will barely fit over the outer thickness and the small sardine can type will not fit the Gates.
Here's my mocked up set up for the right side heater hoses, including the PHH with the two ring clamps. I actually wound up using a 5/8" squeeze clamp on the engine side and the two ring clamp on the right side of the PHH. Bottom pic has the original cut up PHH still attached.
That's where I originally bought my PHH with the breeze clamps. W.E. now sells the Gates PHH with the two-ring clamps, so I order those instead of using the breeze clamps. When looking at the clamp profile for the breeze type vs. the squeeze type or two-ring, the breeze clamp had a noticeable flat spot in the clamped surface. I'm guessing that's why Wit's End changed to the two-ring type which has a more perfect circle clamping profile.
No, and you don't need "constant torque" hose clamps, either. I used standard Breeze clamps simply because they're well made and finished.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
- Thread starter
- #19
Just received the 100 series hose (87245-6A201) to replace the upper hardline connections to the rear heater circuit. They are 14mm ID and there looks to be enough length there to get the two upper ends, and have some left over. Now I need to order two more of those for stock. Many thanks to @Kernal & Dan Busey (whose handle seems to have vanished - what's up with that?).
The web gods turned it upside down. It wasn't me. Honest.
