heater core swap ? / FJ60 1986 version

[georgebj60]

Start collecting spare heater cores from junked trucks. I gave my local rad shop 2 heater cores, to make one good one.

My memory is a bit fuzzy now, but as I recall they could get a new core (minus the tanks on either side), but it was not cheap. At all. I think to rebuild with a new core, existing tanks and tubes was running around $600 CAD.

 

[Elbert]

Update on Project Unicorn:

The aftermarket heater core I ordered from NAPA turned out to be the right box but wrong part in the box, told no parts in the napa system, so I got my money back. I've ordered aftermarket heater core from specter and used "clasps" from specter. I obtained new o-rings from Toyota. Today I took my OEM heater core down to radiator shop and will get it "Re-Cored". I plan to use the OEM heater core and install it once I get it re-cored and I get my used clasps=clamps. One of the clasps that came off my truck looks to be in worse shape than the other, and so I want to replace it now, as I suspect my intial problem was a failure at the o ring. My truck ran for some time with the heater core bypassed, so it a little bit of a challenge to pin-point the location now, as the heater core itself does not show obvious signs of a leak. Since we are talking about a 30+ year old part that is a pain in the @$$ to get to, I'm going to get it re-cored. Whatever other parts I get will be kept as spares.

Local radiator shop says (1) they can re-core the OEM heater core (2) they can solder the pipes to the heater core if needed without issue.

I plan to go back with re-cored OEM heater core, one good OEM clasp and one used one, new o-rings.
I plan to save the heater core from specter once I confirm it works , in case things go to $ell.

I also plan to stay with the OEM configuration unless I find I can't get it to work for some reason since it did last about 30 years or so. If it screws up, then I will have the pipes soldered to the heater core.

Parts will not fully show up to my place before next weekend I'm guessing. Re-Core of OEM heater core is looking to cost around $300.00 US as the radiator shop says they get charged a min amount on cores no matter the size.

Suggestions I would make. Keep up with your OEM heater core and have it re-cored if required. I suspect their might be alternative 0-rings out there, I just don't know where and what specific source. What my observation is.....you have to use a similar size o ring both is diameter and thickness or its not going to seal. The clasps or Clamps that mate the core to the heater pipe is unicorn status from what I've observed so far, used is the only source I'm aware of.

As things progress I'll update. I'll also make sure to update the status of the core and used clasps. once I get them. I expect I want get my re-cored heater core back from the radiator shop until late next week or longer. The radiator shop seemed to think no big deal in gettting re-cored or soldering the pipes if needed.

We'll see how things play out.

 

[Elbert]

Great thread! Can someone elaborate on what part (s) (metal hoses I assume) can be soldered? Would soldering the pipes now eliminate future headaches? Can rubber hose be used and eliminate the metal pipes totally?

After screwing around with this job I'm not so sure that soldering the heater pipes to the heater is such a bad idea at all, in fact I think it may be the overall best option, depending on what parts you have. My local radiator shop says it no problem to solder it....the OEM heater core to the OEM heater pipes. I personally don't see eleminating the heater pipes but you likely could come put with some type of solution but I think you might want to use some type of braided hose or something over heater hose.

 

[Elbert]

Got my re-cored heater core back from the radiator shop today, I should have just had the OEM heater core re-cored to start with....Live and learn I guess. Did not have any luck with the fit and finish on aftermarket heater cores. Got the heater core back in the case, and the new o-rings installed and used clasps on the flanges, and lubricated the o rings with dielectric grease. Hopefully across the weekend I'll get the case back in the truck and enough of the dash back together and then plumb the heater core and new heater control valve so I then can run the engine and see if I have any leaks on the o rings and then get the air out of the system.

Later I'm going to swap the thermostat and some of the hoses under the hood, right now I'm just going to do whatever it takes to get things re-connected and where the engine is operational. Later I'll swap some of the other things on the cooling side like the thermostat and some of the hoses.

Radiator shop was not a big fan of the aftermarket heater cores either.

Save your OEM heater core and get it re-cored at a real radiator shop, that will be your best option. I spent about $280.00 to have heater core "re-cored". To the extent I know at present time (1) OEM heater core NA (2) OEM heater pipes NA (3) OEM heater pipe clasps or clamps NA (4) OEM O-Rings are available. (5) OEM rubber groment (for heater pipes at the firewall) available (6) OEM heater control valve available. Some things available in used market at time of this msg (clasps/clamps), maybe other things...used, used is likely your best bet over some of the aftermarket stuff!

 

[Elbert]

This #$*%# better not leak at the o-rings.....or I might have to say a few nice words or two. Not a fan of these clasps or clamps on the heater pipe flanges. I did install new OEM o-rings and made sure the clasps sit down on the flanges and grab both sides, so I did my best to re-install it, just like it was new. New core on the heater core is HD....its a good bit heavier now, so I think the new re-built heater core may out-live me....I sure hope it does as I have a few more projects I want to deal with beyond screwing with the heater core
If the O-rings do leak and I can't find an obvious solution, then its going to get pulled out and soldered. I made sure the pipes fully seat in the heater core and the orientation is correct and the clasps are "snapped" on....so not much more to do if there is a leak, since there really is not much of anything else that can be done or screwed up.

 

[georgebj60]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep us posted. I'm a ways off getting my truck running, but I basically went through all of this last year - just haven't tested anything. I'll keep an eye out for any updates to this....

 

[Elbert]

got the first part of (the 2nd half) the pain in the $##$% job done. OEM re-cored heater core installed, new heater control valve some new heater hoses some or old, I'll re-do things later, under the hood. Rule # 1...aftermarket heater cores suck, when in doubt see rule #1. no leaks under the hood, no leaks in the dash. I left the truck run for about 20min and no leaks. Depending on weather and stuff, I'll going to drive it around tomorrow to see how it acts on the road. I've got the heater control value zip tied for max hot and I need to make sure I've got the air out of the cooling system. Once I'm good on (no leaks and no issues), I'll start on getting the dash back together.

 

[Elbert]

 

[Elbert]

I'm going to check the clasps one more time and then its going to be fun trying to remember where all the stuff goes back on the dash, guess if I don't have too many extra parts I'll be good. FYI nether of the aftermarket heater cores I bought fit the OEM heater pipes...fair warning... I guess if you solder things then it might not be a big deal but I think it is, the OEM heater pipes seat into the OEM heater core about an inch or so, they would not fit in either of the aftermarket heater cores I bought. So far I've not come up with an approach to make them work, I'm thinking sanding would be a waste of time, but I guess it depends on how bad you want heat. Sad that the vendors making the aftermarket stuff cannot do a better job.

Yeah I got to clean up things and improve some of the routing/wiring....I'm just happy the heater core went in and no leaks. All the other stuff will take some time but getting the dash back together is #1.

 

[Elbert]

I'm starting to look at getting this thing back together after having to deal with some other things. As noted above the heater core assembly is in , but now I need to re-construct the dash. I just posted another thread asking for pics, but if anyone tracking this thread has some good pics of the various components in the dash that would be great if you could post pics or diagrams. I want to avoid having to hunt around and then have to take things apart multiple times...etc. I did take some pics myself, but anything could be helpful. Again I'm looking for pics / diagrams that show (duct work, connections, components, brackets...etc) that are part of the underlying dash assembly. Its rather obvious how some of the major parts go back together but the misc brakects and duct work is a challenge at least for me, given the time this spanned over. So anyway if you have some pics / diagrams that show this level of detail that would be great if you could post up. My truck is a 1986 FJ60 USA model (left hand drive). Thanks

 

[georgebj60]

I probably have a million photos of my dash coming apart, and back together again. If you run into any problems, post up and I'll see what I can find of that area. One thing I know - you need to get the long defrost vent in early, it's tough to get it in after the heater box is in place.

The order of operations is roughly:
- wiring harness if it was removed
- defrost vent
- heater box
- fan box
- A/C box
- ducting in dash
- metal dash
- heater controls
- A/C bezel, and such
- dash cap, side ducts
- radio, cluster
- glove box
- lower venting

 

[Elbert]

All my cables are still connected to the control head. As I recall off the top of my head the blue cable runs out through the fire wall to the heater control valve then there are three other cables I think. One to the driver side of the main assembly, one to the lower side of the heater core assembly and one over to the evaporator core assembly if my memory serves. I will deal with the cables first off the bat and ensure the control head is mounted back in the metal peice that runs the full width of the dash, also which I believe bolts to the steering column. that's my first job to clear and I believe I've fine with that. All of my cables are routed, just not connected right now. I first have to get that "@&^#%$ control head back into the metal peiece it mounts too, then get it fully attached to the left and right mounts and the steering column. I'll leave the ends loose until I do that because if the cables are tight it makes it impossible to deal with the control head mounting points. I may resort to posting up some pics of the metal parts for memory prompts or pics.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I have everything in place with the dash pad off haven't ran all the duct work yet so if you need a pic of something let me know. I will be putting it back together in a few days.
Tommy

 

[Elbert]

Ok, I'll make some notes either later today or tomorrow to see what I'm looking for, or what comes to mind. I've been a little lazy in the shop with 90+F temps as my shop only has some fans and its hot.

 

[Elbert]

Would like some help with these brackets.

I would like confirmation of where these bolt. Bracket 1 I belive bolts to the trans tunnel and then to a stud up near the lip of the windshield? I don't have a ##$% clue where bracket 2 went. bracket 3 I know bolts behind the glove box area or near it, and runs from one of the studs down to the dash. any pics showing this installed so I can get it right (on the right stud and whatever else. Bracket 4 is not prompting my memory on anything....I'm thinking it mates with teh large single bracket #1, but again any tips would help me. I'll see if there are any good diagrams in my shop manual, once I find it. but pics would be great if anyone has any. As noted below, I would also like pics showing the duct work installed too. I've got the main dash panel back in and the defrost duct in and the ac/control head cables installed...plus the heater core assembly. Now is just the time consuming small stuff and obviously I would like to avoid having to tear stuff appart to get it back together. Appreciate tips/notes/pics. If you want to email me something that's fine too. Will be a great day when my guages function and I know how much gas I have....etc, oh and yeah...heat and a/c work.

 

[Elbert]

bracket 1

 

[Elbert]

Bracket 2

 

[Elbert]

Bracket 3

 

[Elbert]

Bracket 4

 

[Elbert]

any pics showing the installed duct work would be great.