Headlight System Malfunction (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter prharper
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
Lock your glove box and keep the key blade with you! Only way to avoid them breaking your recirc flap.
Not sure if you are running a lift or leveling kit but your issues are similar to one I recently tackled. There is an arm on the rear RH upper control arm that connects to the Auto Leveling Sensor for the Headlight system. If you flexed the suspension with a lift installed it may well have maxed the travel out on that arm. Try clearing the codes and driving it on level pavement/streets. If it doesn't come back the sensor likely needs adjustment or a longer arm as in my case.
forum.ih8mud.com
There is also the chance the wiring to that same sensor is damaged. You can test it by taking the 8mm nut off the arm form the control arm to the sensor while the headlights are on and aimed at a wall in a dark garage. If the headlights move up and down (there is a delay of about a minute) it is not the wiring.
Adjusting headlights in a new 200
does anyone just do the manual adjustment under the hood with a screwdriver? After learning my lesson years ago, only use that option to align the 2 headlights to each other.
forum.ih8mud.com
There is also the chance the wiring to that same sensor is damaged. You can test it by taking the 8mm nut off the arm form the control arm to the sensor while the headlights are on and aimed at a wall in a dark garage. If the headlights move up and down (there is a delay of about a minute) it is not the wiring.
So, this weekend, we started getting this same fault on my '18. Like the OP, it started after I went through a small water puddle. I'll be looking to remove my rear sensor this weekend to see about damage to both the sensor and the harness.
FYI, the local Dealership (nut) wanted to charge me over $1600 to repair. If all I have to do is lay on the cold ground for a bit, remove 3 bolts, and resplice some wires, it will be worth it. Anyone have the actual part number for the sensor (just in case)?
FYI, the local Dealership (nut) wanted to charge me over $1600 to repair. If all I have to do is lay on the cold ground for a bit, remove 3 bolts, and resplice some wires, it will be worth it. Anyone have the actual part number for the sensor (just in case)?
bloc
SILVER Star
For a 2018 cruiser 89408-60040
Thank you!
As a follow up, here is some information regarding the issue with my headlight fault:
1. Bracket and sensor were dirty but in good working order. (Dirty, as in I got a face full of dirt, as I was unbolting it.)
2. The short wiring harness (3 wires - Red, Black, and yellow) did get pinched at some point in the past. The yellow wire conductor got exposed in a insulation pin hole which then corroded and finally broke. This is what caused the fault. I was able to remove the harness (no thanks to the engineer who thought it was a good idea to mount the electrical connector on top of a body crossmember (fully out of sight), with the attachment to the body on THIS harness' connector vs. the one going to the rest of the truck's electrical system. (roll eyes here).
3. Once removed, the wiring was easily spliced back together and put back in place. (No cost fix, other than my time.)
4. No more fault and my headlights are no longer aimed at the ground 3 feet in front of the truck (yes, exaggeration, but not by much!).
Thanks all who have contributed to this thread, as it saved me $1565.95 by NOT having the dealership repair it!
1. Bracket and sensor were dirty but in good working order. (Dirty, as in I got a face full of dirt, as I was unbolting it.)
2. The short wiring harness (3 wires - Red, Black, and yellow) did get pinched at some point in the past. The yellow wire conductor got exposed in a insulation pin hole which then corroded and finally broke. This is what caused the fault. I was able to remove the harness (no thanks to the engineer who thought it was a good idea to mount the electrical connector on top of a body crossmember (fully out of sight), with the attachment to the body on THIS harness' connector vs. the one going to the rest of the truck's electrical system. (roll eyes here).
3. Once removed, the wiring was easily spliced back together and put back in place. (No cost fix, other than my time.)
4. No more fault and my headlights are no longer aimed at the ground 3 feet in front of the truck (yes, exaggeration, but not by much!).
Thanks all who have contributed to this thread, as it saved me $1565.95 by NOT having the dealership repair it!
