I get a lot more light out of my Hikari (Philips) low beams than the halogen bulbs had. I don't know how it compares to an OEM housing set up for LEDs . . . and who knows how old those bulbs were . . . perhaps that was the issue.
Headlight Retrofit for 2008 - 2011 LX570
- Thread starter UCrazyKid
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I swapped in the Hikaris into my LX and have been very pleased with the results. It wasn’t super dark, but I snapped these pics tonight. The driver side needs to be adjusted still, but even so the beam pattern is nice and the color is good. Very happy with the performance for the price.
Hikari Philips LEDs are on Lightning deal for $71 at Amazon for the next 3 hours, if you've been contemplating this mod. Usually $89.
Came back to say I am very happy with my Cree-based Hikari H11s. So happy that I just picked up the newest Philips-based bulbs.
I picked up a pair for my wife’s Subaru as well.
I picked up a pair for my wife’s Subaru as well.
Just installed the low and high beam LEDs on 2011. Wow, why did I not do this earlier. Like OP, on 2011 the high beams are dimmer when used as DRLs. Still bright, but given they would be on only during daytime, I won't be blinding anybody.
Driver side is a bit of a$$ pain due to battery placement, if you have big hands, I recommend moving the battery out of the way. It was a tight squeeze. Also, one high beam LED was a very tight squeeze due to rubber gasket.
Driver side is a bit of a$$ pain due to battery placement, if you have big hands, I recommend moving the battery out of the way. It was a tight squeeze. Also, one high beam LED was a very tight squeeze due to rubber gasket.
Make sure you guys are aiming your headlights after adding LEDs! Don’t be that guy blinding everyone with your new lumens 
^Good point, does Lexus do self leveling? I kinda assumed it does, but might have to look more into it. I still can't believe 80k car didn't come with Bi-xenons in 2011.
They do to a point, but it's mostly AFS which the system that swivels in corners with the steering motion. Mine was badly out of adjustment with the LEDs, so I spent a while getting them dialed perfect. I haven't been hit with anyone's flashers yet whereas I got it before immediately after the swap.
Do you mind sharing how to adjust them?
I read the below thread, then experimented. On mine I just had to turn the hex screws in white plastic body below. It's key to find a perfectly level surface and a nice flat wall to project against. After you get it dialed in, make sure to notice where the headlights hit people's rear and side view mirrors (I drove up behind parked cars on the side of the road to ensure it wasn't going to be nuisance) and make sure it doesn't blind oncoming traffic. It took me a couple of times to get it perfect, but it's worth it.
Headlight Aim - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
Many thanks!
I have level ground with walls. I will compare to my other car with factory self adjusting xenons.
I have level ground with walls. I will compare to my other car with factory self adjusting xenons.
Markuson
SILVER Star
My 08 didn’t need adjustment. I’ve only been flashed about 4 times in a couple years...which is no worse than stock.
But... my truck is a little stink-bugged. If I ever level the front, I’ll probably have to tweak my aim...
But... my truck is a little stink-bugged. If I ever level the front, I’ll probably have to tweak my aim...
Last edited:
As promised, wanted to provide the Group with an update on the Hikari Philips LED bulbs at the 1 year mark. I installed the H11 and 9005 in the low, fog, and high beam locations on my 2011 LX
1. Other than losing the DRL function (which is not an issue for me), the Philips LED version of the Hikaris have performed flawlessly. No issues whatsoever.
2. The improvement over stock in all cases has been well worth the cost. Originally, I was on the fence regarding the performance of the foglight bulbs, but the strong lateral throw of the beams has help me see and avoid dozens of potential encounters with deer at night on rural roads.
3. I've driven the 200 in heavy weather conditions (rain, sleet, snow). The color temperature of the bulbs in heavy snow conditions is a little bit glaring, but I've learned in those cases to utilize only the low beam projectors, which maintain the sharp cutoff. The foglight optics are best in low/moderate precipitation and dry conditions
4. I've since installed the Philips chip Hikaris on my 80 series, 100 series LC, and 100 series LX. The improvement over the PIAA Extreme and Philips X-tremeVision has been varied, but all resulted in improved throw and visibility over the upgraded halogen bulbs. These Hikaris are most effective in the projector application, but I can still say there is an improvement over best 55 watt high end halogen bulbs. Subjectively ranking the improvement over stock (low beam): 2011 LX (+100%); 2007 LX (+90%), 1995 LC (+75%), 2007 LC (+60%).
5. Finally, I have tested the H4 Hikari bulbs in a Hella Euro H4 headlight. Once again, a welcome improvement over the best halogen bulbs. I've found the limitations of the lens optics and LED bulb to produce a sharp cut-off and improved output; however, there's a slight varied reach at the limits of the beam.
Hope this helps...
Eric
1. Other than losing the DRL function (which is not an issue for me), the Philips LED version of the Hikaris have performed flawlessly. No issues whatsoever.
2. The improvement over stock in all cases has been well worth the cost. Originally, I was on the fence regarding the performance of the foglight bulbs, but the strong lateral throw of the beams has help me see and avoid dozens of potential encounters with deer at night on rural roads.
3. I've driven the 200 in heavy weather conditions (rain, sleet, snow). The color temperature of the bulbs in heavy snow conditions is a little bit glaring, but I've learned in those cases to utilize only the low beam projectors, which maintain the sharp cutoff. The foglight optics are best in low/moderate precipitation and dry conditions
4. I've since installed the Philips chip Hikaris on my 80 series, 100 series LC, and 100 series LX. The improvement over the PIAA Extreme and Philips X-tremeVision has been varied, but all resulted in improved throw and visibility over the upgraded halogen bulbs. These Hikaris are most effective in the projector application, but I can still say there is an improvement over best 55 watt high end halogen bulbs. Subjectively ranking the improvement over stock (low beam): 2011 LX (+100%); 2007 LX (+90%), 1995 LC (+75%), 2007 LC (+60%).
5. Finally, I have tested the H4 Hikari bulbs in a Hella Euro H4 headlight. Once again, a welcome improvement over the best halogen bulbs. I've found the limitations of the lens optics and LED bulb to produce a sharp cut-off and improved output; however, there's a slight varied reach at the limits of the beam.
Hope this helps...
Eric
I've come down on the side of giving myself and family every advantage to avoid potential incoming fur missiles...
- Thread starter
- #77
No bulb adjustment. Just headlight housing adjustment.
I have an 08 LX and ordered bulbs per the links in the OP. Can confirm no DRL’s but have also lost AFS...can anyone help?
A couple of thoughts:
First, I'd double check to make sure the wiring is still neatly tucked in out of the way inside the cap. Sometimes the most properly stowed wiring installation/seating can move as the dust cap is replaced.
Second, Hikari changed the bulb housing length on its newer H1 Prime/Philips bulbs. I found this out last week when I had a warranty issue with one of the H1 Hikaris from my 2007 LX. The length of the bulb from the mounting ring to the tip of the bulb remained the same. However, the body length behind the ring to the end of the fan housing increased by +-1/4", making it no longer possible to mount the stock dust cover back on the light housing. I'm having to now use a rubber cap over a modified dust cover solution that forum members used to mount HID kits (the thread is on the 200 series forum). Long winded way of saying that if Hikari made a slight design change to the H1 bulbs, they may have very well done the same with other bulb types like the H11. The H11's have been in my 2011 LX for a year and a half with no problems and no modifications. And I remain very happy with their performance and reliability. I have no way of knowing if your AFS issue is due to a new design bulb length that now impacts the dust cover resulting in an AFS error code. You might try mounting the bulbs without the dust cover attached to see if the AFS functions. You'll have your answer then.
Hope this helps...
First, I'd double check to make sure the wiring is still neatly tucked in out of the way inside the cap. Sometimes the most properly stowed wiring installation/seating can move as the dust cap is replaced.
Second, Hikari changed the bulb housing length on its newer H1 Prime/Philips bulbs. I found this out last week when I had a warranty issue with one of the H1 Hikaris from my 2007 LX. The length of the bulb from the mounting ring to the tip of the bulb remained the same. However, the body length behind the ring to the end of the fan housing increased by +-1/4", making it no longer possible to mount the stock dust cover back on the light housing. I'm having to now use a rubber cap over a modified dust cover solution that forum members used to mount HID kits (the thread is on the 200 series forum). Long winded way of saying that if Hikari made a slight design change to the H1 bulbs, they may have very well done the same with other bulb types like the H11. The H11's have been in my 2011 LX for a year and a half with no problems and no modifications. And I remain very happy with their performance and reliability. I have no way of knowing if your AFS issue is due to a new design bulb length that now impacts the dust cover resulting in an AFS error code. You might try mounting the bulbs without the dust cover attached to see if the AFS functions. You'll have your answer then.
Hope this helps...
