Headlight Retrofit for 2008 - 2011 LX570 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

anything to fix the low beams is welcome. I questioned whether mine were even on last time it was dark. Looking forward to this upgrade.
 
Great thread. And bonus that there's a 20% off coupon today. On both Hikari sets. I'm just going to try out the main lamps at the moment as I'm unsure about losing the DRL function.

I played with LED bulbs about a year back and when I replaced the high beams with LEDs, the LEDs worked during DRL, but were full brightness. Almost prefer that the new Hikari Philips LumiLED don't work under DRL function for this reason.

There's these add on LED "DRL Fogs" that could replace the original high beam DRL function, but I've yet to see a picture of what they look like mounted. They replace the plastic blank alongside the fogs - 2x white LED Daytime Day Fog Lights DRL Run lamp For 2007-2009 Lexus LX570 | eBay
 
Installed and tested the Hikari Philips LED H11 bulbs in the 2011 LX570 factory fog lights. They replaced the PIAA H11 Xtreme White Plus bulbs that have been operational for several years. I had the opportunity to test the Hikaris on the mountain roads of Idaho in night driving and low light rain conditions over the last week. My subjective thoughts:

1. A noticeable improvement in lateral light over the PIAA bulbs. And while there was no significant improvement in down road light over the Hikari LED projector low beams, they did provide a more "comfortable" driving experience in the turns...perhaps an improvement in "depth perception" is the best way to describe the effect they had in conjunction with the Hikari Philips projector low beams. Worth the $100? Hard to say, but it's a whole lot cheaper than buying another set of lights and all the mounting challenges if you're not adding a bull bar.

2. The Lexus LX 570 fog light is not a really an effective fog light to begin with in my opinion (and for that matter, every OEM foglight I've had on my vehicles over the last 40 years). The LX 570 doesn't provide a short throw wide beam with the sharp cut off normally associated with a true fog light...there's just too much light that bleeds above the cutoff. The 6000K color temperature of the LED bulbs is another negative factor for foul weather driving effectiveness according to "lighting experts". So far, I've found the 6000k light color to be helpful in rain and rural night driving conditions (probably for the same damn reason I need reading glasses now, I suppose).

3. For dense fog conditions, I'll probably stick with just the Hikari Philips low beams. Otherwise, the LX's fog lights will be a welcome addition for night driving. The pictures I took really don't do a good job of showing the effect of the new bulbs. I'll try again next weekend and post if the results are any better.
 
I was wondering if Hikaris come in a 4000-5000K spectrum? I find the 6000K to be little too blue for my taste.

Thanks!
 
Finished up the cree Philips hikari update. Drls are not working. They do flash every couple min, but don't stay on.
Contacting hikari to see if they can address.
 
Finished up the cree Philips hikari update. Drls are not working. They do flash every couple min, but don't stay on.
Contacting hikari to see if they can address.

Following. Do keep us updated; hopefully you can find a possible resolution to the drl issue.
 
You can also take the DRL box out of the loop. It's behind the front passenger headlight where the second battery tray goes. I did that and just run my low beams as DRLs when I want (which is basically all the time). No error messages or dash lights.
 
I just did the Hikari low beams a few weeks ago. Like EJC, I’m not completely convinced it was an upgrade in my case, but the jury’s still out as I’ve only used them a few times.

Note that I upgraded my low beams from Philips X-tremeVision halogen bulbs, which were most definitely an upgrade from the OE bulb in brightness and fidelity. Also, know that I already previously had 7200lumen H11 6k LEDs in my fog light positions. I really enjoyed this combination as the fogs were extremely bright, sharp, and wide to augment the halogen low beams.

Observations:

1) Hikari LEDS are bright, but I don’t think the color temperature is working as well for my particular situation. Because I also have 6k LEDS in the fog position, both lights are bright in the same focused color spectrum. This seems to cast a single narrow color pallet on everything that is illuminated. Versus the configuration I had before (LED fogs, halogen low beams), that rendered everything more vividly across the color pallet. Another way to say it is there low color fidelity/contrast in the illuminated objects.

2) The spread and cut-off are good. I didn’t have to adjust my light fixture down at all.

3) The illumination is not as even as the halogen as I can see the subtle hotspots and shadows in the light pattern, I think from the individual LED elements.

I may very well go back to my previous setup of halogen low beams and LED fogs. That setup worked exceedingly well. And I know that the low beams won’t fog or ice over in the cold when I go visit snow country in the winter. As both the fogs and low beams use H11 bulbs, you guys might also want to try mixing things around between the two.
 
Last edited:
I just did the Hikari low beams a few weeks ago. Like EJC, I’m not completely convinced it was an upgrade in my case, but the jury’s still out as I’ve only used them a few times.

Note that I upgraded my low beams from Philips X-tremeVision halogen bulbs, which were most definitely an upgrade from the OE bulb in brightness and fidelity. Also, know that I already previously had 7200lumen H11 6k LEDs in my fog light positions. I really enjoyed this combination as the fogs were extremely bright, sharp, and wide to augment the halogen low beams.

Observations:

1) Hikari LEDS are bright, but I don’t think the color temperature is working as well for my particular situation. Because I also have 6k LEDS in the fog position, both lights are bright the same focused spectrum. This seems to cast a single narrow color pallet on everything that was illuminated. Versus the configuration I had before (LED fogs, halogen low beams), that rendered everything more vividly across the color pallet. Another way to say it is there low color fidelity/contrast in the illuminated objects.

2) The spread and cut-off are good. I didn’t have to adjust my light fixture down at all.

3) The illumination is not as even as the halogen as I can see the subtle hotspots and shadows in the light pattern, I think from the individual LED elements.

I may very well go back to my previous setup of halogen low beams and LED fogs. That setup worked exceedingly well. And I know that the low beams won’t fog or ice over in the cold when I go visit snow country in the winter. As both the fogs and low beams use H11 bulbs, you guys might also want to try mixing things around between the two.

Good post. You mentioned you may go back to halogen low beams. Did the Philips X-tremeVision bulbs turn on along with the DRLs?

The stock halogens are just too dim IMHO and I am still seeking an upgrade, but I'm hearing reports those who upgraded to Hikari's have issues with DRLs not turning on, which would be a negative for me.
 
The DRLs use the high beam, so go ahead and get some LED goodness for the low beams :). Sent the message of to Hikari on the HB3s, let's see what they say.
 
Last edited:

Nope. Those are HIDs. I upgraded my stock halogen bulbs to uprated halogen bulbs. Here - https://www.amazon.com/Philips-X-tr...154&sr=1-3&keywords=Philips+X-tremeVision+H11

Good post. You mentioned you may go back to halogen low beams. Did the Philips X-tremeVision bulbs turn on along with the DRLs?

The stock halogens are just too dim IMHO and I am still seeking an upgrade, but I'm hearing reports those who upgraded to Hikari's have issues with DRLs not turning on, which would be a negative for me.

What grinchy said. Agreed that the OE halogens were a bit dim. I didn't find the halogen X-xtremvision bulbs dim at all, especially with my LED fogs. Just that the color temperature wasn't as "cool" looking next to the new stuff.

What made my previous setup great is I think the uprated halogen having a broad color spectrum of solid output. Along with the controlled, focus'd for halogen, optics of the LX570. That paired with the great lumen output of the LED bulbs I had in the reflector based fogs for a wide and bright throw closer in. I have some cars that have GREAT lighting and the LX570 wasn't lacking for it after that upgrade.

My current setup just feels too narrow in its ability to render color at night. Like wearing a cheap pair of tinted sunglasses that do nothing but turn everything blue. Rather than high quality polarized sunglasses.

I may try the Hikari's in the fog position to see if they're better than my last gen LEDs. I think that was my single best upgrade in regards to lighting. They throw light way to the sides.
 
I was wondering if Hikaris come in a 4000-5000K spectrum? I find the 6000K to be little too blue for my taste.

Hikari has stated they will only be producing their bulbs in 6000K color. There are other LED options available, and in a lower color spectrum, but all the research results I've found point to quality, function, or reliability issues with most of the offerings out there. 6000K seems to be the "standard" now.

In my case, I was very close to paying the money to upgrade the HID low beams in both my '07 LX470 and '11 LX570 (in my case GTR HID product with Philips HID bulbs). In retrospect, probably a much more proven solution (albeit some modification being necessary to the caps) and also a much more expensive solution for a quality kit than just a bulb swap). If the Hikaris don't work out, I may end up going that direction.

For now, I'm very satisfied with the performance of the Philips Hikaris in the low, high, and fog positions. The longer term evaluation to prove out bulb life is the remaining issue for me. Losing the DRL function hasn't been a factor for me.

One other thing I'll pass on to the Group: the 9005 Xtreme White Plus PIAA's that I've been running in my 2011 LX, 2007 LX, and 2007 LC for > 7 years don't really "like" the DRL reduced power. I've been getting somewhere around 12-14 months of life out the 9005 PIAAs before they burn out. The bulb color has a black color once they burn out. I've ordered some of the new Philips Extreme Halogens to test in my '75, '95, and '07s once my PIAA stock is depleted. I'm hearing, however, that they are similar in brightness/performance but slightly lower color temperature than the PIAA Xtreme White bulbs.

Hope this helps...
 
Hikari was not helpful on advice to fix my DRL flicker on the high beam. This was the Cree based HB3. Today's my last day to return so I'm going to get a move on and get these shipped back.

Reading around the flicker is due to low voltage; I don't think a resistor would fix that (even further voltage drop). There are some capacitor based solutions, but I don't think they have the wattage necessary. All this on a quick read, and figure I can research further after return and reorder if necessary. I really don't use the high beams much, but I do LOVE to leave my lights on auto, and can't do with the flicker (which happens in 'off' and auto).

So there it is.
 
Sorry this isn’t working out. What year is your LX? Maybe a difference between years!

Hikari was not helpful on advice to fix my DRL flicker on the high beam. This was the Cree based HB3. Today's my last day to return so I'm going to get a move on and get these shipped back.

Reading around the flicker is due to low voltage; I don't think a resistor would fix that (even further voltage drop). There are some capacitor based solutions, but I don't think they have the wattage necessary. All this on a quick read, and figure I can research further after return and reorder if necessary. I really don't use the high beams much, but I do LOVE to leave my lights on auto, and can't do with the flicker (which happens in 'off' and auto).

So there it is.
 
@UCrazyKid It's a 2009. Not sure what if anything is different, could just be a different batch of LEDs, a different set of electronics in the black box, etc. I did like the lights a bunch when they were on, but I do use and believe in DRLs.

Another solution will present itself. I think there's a thread running right now on some IPF/ARBs, I'll give that a look.
 
Ok. Mine is a 2011 and I know that some electrics have been changed in the later years.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom