Header for 2F engine. What are some good mods to make more hp and tq with this engine? Thanks for any info (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter ratman1
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Building a racing tractor? A header, carb, and distributor will help. Buy and put them on when the OEM poops out. A 4, 5, or 6 speed tanny maybe a 3:1 or 4:1 transfer case. Perhaps a 4.88 or 5 something pumpkins. I have no use for fuel injection or automatic transmissions - although I did like the Allison 6 speed in a big uhaul many years ago.
A 383 stroker was a popular Chevota option.
A 383 stroker was a popular Chevota option.
1911
chupacabra
The 2F engine was designed to make useable torque at low rpm, it makes 80% of its rated torque not far above idle rpm. Great for for four-wheeling, its intended purpose. With enough time and money, you can increase hp but it's an uphill battle from the start with flat-tappet inline six. As has been suggested, an LS or other small-block chevy swap is the way to go (in my opinion) if you must have more hp.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I took all the emissions equipment out, plugged the air injector ports, put a Rochester carb and header on my 2F and changed the distributer to a different year. Could not tell the difference by the seat of the pants. When I had to swap to the 155F and kept all the mods that I had for the 2F and bolted them to the 155F including the clutch and flywheel and could not tell any difference. It ran and that was important.
The header leaked a lot and needed to replace burned out gaskets when adjusting the valves did not reduce the clicking sound.
Now I have a Cummins in front of the H55F and split transfer case. It is still not ready to drive so cant say what difference there is yet.
The header leaked a lot and needed to replace burned out gaskets when adjusting the valves did not reduce the clicking sound.
Now I have a Cummins in front of the H55F and split transfer case. It is still not ready to drive so cant say what difference there is yet.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I had a SB given to me to build with a stroker kit but did not like the options at the time to convert and heard about the transfer case housing breaking and saw the first broken Birfield outer sitting on a counter that was sheared all from a Chevy 400 making 400hp supposedly.
Then started looking at diesel with more torque but lower horse power gains.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
When mine needed a valve job I had the head milled and the shop said they milled it 0.050" and ran fine at 6200' and above but when took it up to Portland, OR and it lasted a year and I put the biggest jets I could get for the Rochester carb and got not keep it from knocking and was pulling the cock knob in and out to control the knock.
Then ended up with a 155F to get back to Wyoming.
I hit the lootery I'm building a 283 Vet engine - I like RPM's. Likely go the Porsche and Ferrari factory too.
One of my college buddies hand built the 383 and used the Ranger Overdrive as the adapter to his 4 speed - he was very happy with the results.
One of my college buddies hand built the 383 and used the Ranger Overdrive as the adapter to his 4 speed - he was very happy with the results.
Engines. Many options. Easy/Simple is a chevy 350 carbed. Mine has one behind a 3 spd on the floor. Its wicked. Does 80 mph all day! Love Toyota engines. But this one gets my grubby hands over them most days.
OP
Instead of starting by asking a vague question, put in the work and start reading the thousands of threads and posts here about everything fj40.
All the information is here, but you have to go to it, it won't (and shouldn't) come to you.
What to do to baseline a new to you 40...
Tuning tips, tricks and fallacies...
How to have a more powerful 40...
Engine swaps....
Vendors and products to meet various goals...
Vendors and products to avoid...
Everything is here, figure out what you want from the rig and do your homework, then ask specific questions if you can't find what you need.
Instead of starting by asking a vague question, put in the work and start reading the thousands of threads and posts here about everything fj40.
All the information is here, but you have to go to it, it won't (and shouldn't) come to you.
What to do to baseline a new to you 40...
Tuning tips, tricks and fallacies...
How to have a more powerful 40...
Engine swaps....
Vendors and products to meet various goals...
Vendors and products to avoid...
Everything is here, figure out what you want from the rig and do your homework, then ask specific questions if you can't find what you need.
A good tune-up with careful valve adjustment will usually get you an hp. What year 2F might matter. We need pics.
Sometimes a V8 is great and I wish I had one, most of the time I'm glad I kept the six. Sorta depends on what you want to do with it.
I built this engine starting in 2004 with a '76 2F block, bored and balanced, Federal-Mogul domed pistons and Sealed Power rings. Delta RV cam. Put on a '74 Late F head that had just a little work done on it. '69 wide runner intake manifold, '73 carb went to Jim C. Completely de-smogged of course. Downey header. Big cap dizzy and a Clifford valve cover. Last Spring I finally got it the good valve job I've been promising with chevy valves and a good polishing and port matching. I think I got an extra hp out of it. I think the balancing helped. It's still not fast, has trouble pulling hills sometimes in 4th but it will pull me up a steep rocky incline at 800 RPM without a hiccup and do it all day.
