Head gasket pics

[turbocruiser]

After cleaning the block and the intake manifolds, I'm going to have a hard time with the oem PCV system. It'd be a shame to dump the PCV gas back into the engine again after all that effort! Maybe it's time for an oil catch can?

I'll get to cleaning now that y'all have such a high standard set for me!

Robbie, thanks for the cleaning info and the cautions. Much appreciated.

Ali

Yes, perfect time to do that. Check out this thread...


https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=87788

 

[Romer]

Ali - That's just how mine looked when Robbie did mine. Except I think there was more carbon.

 

[powderpig]

I use 3 different types of scotch brite pad. From course to fine to clean the surface. by the time I am done the surface is fairly smooth except for the pitting from corrosion. With some of the Scotch brite pads, you can polish a surface to very very smooth surface.
Rick, if you can not use some type of abrasive, what does this information reccomend a person to use to clean the surface of the block?
In the not so distance past, I used sand paper in various grades to do the same job. Even using a DA sander(this method I have used for a very long time) But you have to be very carefull in the cleaning process to make sure no sand particals are left in between the piston and the cylinder wall. Sand paper was all I was trained to use in the early 80' to late 80's. Then Scotch brite came out in force. The big benifit of it was to allow a person not to have to be as miticulus in the cleaning process, as the material would not harm the internals of a engine quite like sand paper particles. Not to say, I am not going to clean just as much, but I do not worry as much about something left behind.
Any how enjoy the holiday(what a way to engoy them, tearing a engine apart). later robbie

 

[CJF]

2nd pic shows #6 and #5 pistons and the head gasket. Notice the clogged coolant passageways!

Not sure what you're talking about here; not all of those "passageways" are meant to be open.

Curtis

 

[landtank]

Robbie, I can't remember exactly what was said but I used various solvents and then finished it off with some 600 grit wet/dry soaked in Isopropyl alcohol to polish the surfaces. All done by hand. I'll see if I can find the article.

 

[powderpig]

Ali, when you take the head in ask if they can boil the intakes and the vavle cover as well. Most good machine shops will have a soak tank for aluminum. You first have to take off all the vaccuum stuff off and a couple of small things. but well worth getting it soaked and cleaned by them. Other wise, a good solvant tank will work wonders if you have the time to allow the parts to soak then use a long handle wire brush or maybe a bottle brush to clean the inside up. About the only way to clean the EGR passage well if you do not soak is to push out the plug and use a brush and other inplements to get the EGR passage clean.
Good luck robbie

 

[Tools R Us]

Has it been setting, or have you been driving it?

 

[alia176]

Robbie,

thanks, I'll ask the shop to clean it. My solvent tank may not be big enough for the lower part of the intake manifold.

tool,
It's been sitting. I would start it up and putt putt around but that's about it.

Ali

 

[IdahoDoug]

Those coolant passages are not gunked shut. Most of them are supposed to be closed off by the head gasket, and others have only a small BB sized hole in the gasket to allow flow. So this is not a bad example of clogging at all.

DougM

 

[alia176]

After everything is buttoned up, I'd like to flush the coolant passages. What's the most corrosive stuff that I can use w/o doing harm to the coolant system? Also, do we still flush the coolant system by interrupting the heater hose and introduce fresh water that way or is there a more "advanced" way of doing things these days?

Thanks.

 

[Gumby]

I wouldn't introduce two new seams into the heater hoses.

I replace the t-stat every flush anyways, so just pull the t-stat, pull the block drains, open the petcock and put water in the filler neck. Not having a t-stat will allow it to circulate.

Be sure to turn on the heater.

Close the drains, put in the new t-stat, fill with 1/2 of the total capacity (17.5q?) with new coolant, then 1/2 the total capacity of demineralized water.



And just to throw my two cents in...


Boooo Toyota Red!

Hurray Green!


The most corrosive stuff I use to clean the passageways is water and coolant.

 

[NovaFZJ80]

Don't forget to put in a new oil galley plug if needed before putting the whole thing back together.

 

[alia176]

thanks for the input gents.

My only reservation is that I don't want to introduce the cruddy radiator fluid (greenish sludge mixed with radiator stop leak) into the newly cleaned radiator and a beautifully serviced head. I want to flush the block completely before buttoning her up.

 

[cruiserdan]

Don't forget to put in a new oil galley plug if needed before putting the whole thing back together.

That's in way deeper than he is going.

 

[landtank]

I did look for that info on cleaning the head but couldn't find it. It's main point was that the mating surfaces needed to be smooth to allow some slipping during expansion and pointed out that scotch brite pads on that surface was too aggressive.

 

[turbocruiser]

thanks for the input gents.

My only reservation is that I don't want to introduce the cruddy radiator fluid (greenish sludge mixed with radiator stop leak) into the newly cleaned radiator and a beautifully serviced head. I want to flush the block completely before buttoning her up.

Well, there's a simple solution methinks - 1. Simply pour lots and lots of water through the radiator with the big bottom hose off and collect that contaminated flushoff. 2. Take the block drain plug out and perhaps the thermostat and the thermostat housing out, and slowly and steadily pour lots and lots of water through the cooling passageways positioned all through the block ... use a funnel and a super steady arm to avoid pouring water where it shouldn't sit. Ohh, again, collect that contaminated flushoff. 3. Drain the oil to also drain the water that may have made its way to the pan. I would think that this procedure would really work to remove the mixture of coolant and stopleak you are anxious about. I did not have to worry with this because the cooling system was already and always super clean. Anyways, hope that helps.

 

[Rookie2]

I did look for that info on cleaning the head but couldn't find it. It's main point was that the mating surfaces needed to be smooth to allow some slipping during expansion and pointed out that scotch brite pads on that surface was too aggressive.

If you do come across that info please post up. I'd like find a more specific procedure on it.


Rookie2

 

[alia176]

Block is now flushed. Here's what I did:

Removed the water pump and rolled the vehicle out in the driveway. Using a water hose, I forced water through all of the holes that are on top of the block and watched the gunk come out of the water pump cavity. This was done to every single hole on top of the block. I also forced water through each heater core separately until clean water came out.


At this time I took the opportunity to scrub the head gasket contact area as well as the tops of the pistons. I also cleaned both intake manifold halves with a large and a small bottle brush, degreaser and brake parts cleaner. Then I let the block drain with the front tires totally flat. After couple of hours, pumped the tires back up and pushed her back in the heated garage. After everything dried up, I continued to work on top of the block trying to clean her up as much as I could.

I'll need to drain the oil before starting up the engine before all is said and done!

Here're some misc pics for ya!

1. Block cleaned and flushed
2. The famous PHH hose
3. Oil pump cover removed

 

[alia176]

Crankshaft seal orientation?

Can anyone tell me which way the new crankshaft seal (on the right) is suppose to be installed?

Thanks.

 

[landtank]

spring on the inside