Head gasket pics
- Thread starter alia176
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Since yer in there...
How are the welds on the y-pipe before the cat?
Weren't you the one with a leak there on your other truck? Might be easy to drop that pipe down with the manifold out.
How are the welds on the y-pipe before the cat?
Weren't you the one with a leak there on your other truck? Might be easy to drop that pipe down with the manifold out.
- Thread starter
- #45
Since yer in there...
How are the welds on the y-pipe before the cat?
Weren't you the one with a leak there on your other truck? Might be easy to drop that pipe down with the manifold out.
But I'm so far away from a TIG machine now
X2 - As I made a mention above, I would not wait AT ALL, change the oil prior to even turning her over!!! HTH
- Thread starter
- #48
I was planning on changing the oil right after everything is buttoned up but before the engine is turned. You folks think it's not good for the water to sit in the oil pan, immersed in oil?
Pics of the head after cleaned, shaved off .007".
looks beautiful.
Can't imagine it's good to have water in the crankcase even for a a few days. Probably better without anything at all? Or just use some cheap oil and replace that before very long. May also help with any dirt / metal that may have found its way into the engine during all the work.
Can't imagine it's good to have water in the crankcase even for a a few days. Probably better without anything at all? Or just use some cheap oil and replace that before very long. May also help with any dirt / metal that may have found its way into the engine during all the work.
So fresh and so clean (clean!)
Maybe now would be a good time to do one of those fancy AutoRx treatments to remove sediment and other impurities from the crankcase... it would mean a shorter interval for your first change, but I think that's a good thing in this case.
Maybe now would be a good time to do one of those fancy AutoRx treatments to remove sediment and other impurities from the crankcase... it would mean a shorter interval for your first change, but I think that's a good thing in this case.
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I would drain the water/oil mix now. When it is ready to run refill with cheap oil using the same filter, start it, warm it up, tune the settings, test drive, then change oil and filter. I would only run that oil about 500-1000 miles, then change to a "good" oil and filter and normal oci.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Progress report/More pics??
Yeah, what's the deal, you act like you have a job and family to deal with. Let's see some action
Remember we're from the Mud board and we are here to help.
Michele's will run so well after you're done, you'll want to tear yours apart because you'll be jealous.
Jack
- Thread starter
- #54
I've been a slacker lately - snow is good in NM, so I've been skiing Typing this from Taos, getting ready to head up the mountain and get blown away 
I got the injectors back from Cruizerperformance and I must say, he does a good job. Each injectors are cleaned, labeled, tested and then individually wrapped. If I can figure out how to upload a PDF file, I can show you folks the injector report.
When I get back, I'll finish up checking the valve clearance on the exhaust camshaft. I found only one shim out of spec on the intake side - Intake #11. I still have to rebuild the alternator before I continue further.
Stay tuned...!
Typing this from Taos, getting ready to head up the mountain and get blown away I got the injectors back from Cruizerperformance and I must say, he does a good job. Each injectors are cleaned, labeled, tested and then individually wrapped. If I can figure out how to upload a PDF file, I can show you folks the injector report.
When I get back, I'll finish up checking the valve clearance on the exhaust camshaft. I found only one shim out of spec on the intake side - Intake #11. I still have to rebuild the alternator before I continue further.
Stay tuned...!
Use a tool like SnagIt to capture a BMP image of the PDF while it is displayed on your screen, then attach the BMP or send it to your Yahoo pics account.
As for the alternator, replacing the brushes is a 10 minute project when the alt is on the bench. What else are you doing to rebuild it? Bearings, bushings, other electronic bits?
-B-
- Thread starter
- #56
Updates
She's about wrapped up I'd say. The engine is buttoned up and she fired right up at 3pm today. It's amazing how quiet that engine is with new belts, gaskets and seals. I still need to set the idle but the engine is surprisingly smooth with a very slight random miss.
I'm experiencing one issue that maybe some of you can help me with. It seems that the EGR valve (circled in red) is making a hissing sound when I first started the engine. Then the hissing sound escalated to a very loud, ear piercing sound
All of this occurred at idle but goes away when I blip the throttle.
This may have been a coincidence, but when I was fiddling with the green valve on the left, I was able to cause the loud ear piercing sound but it went away upon blipping the throttle.
I did change the VSV and all vacuum hoses under the intake. I wonder if I got a hose reversed or something!
EGR picture
All wrapped up.
Thanks.
She's about wrapped up I'd say. The engine is buttoned up and she fired right up at 3pm today. It's amazing how quiet that engine is with new belts, gaskets and seals. I still need to set the idle but the engine is surprisingly smooth with a very slight random miss.
I'm experiencing one issue that maybe some of you can help me with. It seems that the EGR valve (circled in red) is making a hissing sound when I first started the engine. Then the hissing sound escalated to a very loud, ear piercing sound
All of this occurred at idle but goes away when I blip the throttle. This may have been a coincidence, but when I was fiddling with the green valve on the left, I was able to cause the loud ear piercing sound but it went away upon blipping the throttle.
I did change the VSV and all vacuum hoses under the intake. I wonder if I got a hose reversed or something!
EGR picture
All wrapped up.
Thanks.
Sounds like a vacuum leak at the EGR valve. There is a metal gasket between the valve and the intake. It is a little hard to get on there because you have to remove the studs to R&R the EGR valve so the gasket cannot be placed on the studs before you slide on the valve. Maybe the gasket is missing or bent or maybe the EGR valve didn't get snugged down evenly?
-B-
-B-
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Cruiserdan mentioned that you didn't give his Snap-On torque wrench back after you borrowed it. Is it possible one of Dan's needles is stuck in the egr in the scale model of your truck on his desk?
Post up what you find out so that I can avoid a similar fate.
Post up what you find out so that I can avoid a similar fate.
