Head Gasket job (total noob) (9 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I knew that one stupid mistake which would cost me was coming , expected it little bit later thou.
 
If you pull up on both sides of the chain evenly (get a helper?), and slowly turn the crankshaft opposite the direction you were going when you bound it up, you should find a point where it lets out a couple links and the crank is no longer bound. Maybe use a piece of PVC pipe to lift up on the chain and keep tension on it.
Don't be too bummed. Maybe @half k cruiser can swing by and give you a hand as he's a lot closer than I am.
I am impressed with your work so far! Keep your chin up man! If you didn't make any mistakes it wouldn't be a learning experience. I had a ton of those "oh s***, what have I done?" moments on mine. And it all turned out great!
 
Here's a couple pics that might help.
There is no way the chain can jump a tooth because the inside of the cover is too close.
DSC_5527.JPG
DSC_5550.JPG
 
Two weeks Is to long, get a good night's rest and reflect on the logic and due diligence you have applied to the bumps In the road since you started this project and you will solve this one as well. You have done a remarkable job on a difficult project, I am Impressed and I say that seldom. I have no doubt you can solve this, rest up and get back on It.!! :) Great Job Jorgito, keep It up..!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for heads up guys, I was panicking a little bit but now after calling @2fpower I feel much better. We will take the chain cover out on Tuesday and proceed from there.
 
I screwed up on the timing chain too. Gave me a chance to replace all of the timing components and reseal the oil pans (didn't really think of it as an "opportunity" then). It was depressing and made me want to give up too, but it all worked out in the end. Just keep plugging along and take things one step at a time. It will make the day it fires back up that much more satisfying.
 
blkprj80 said:
If you pull up on both sides of the chain evenly (get a helper?), and slowly turn the crankshaft opposite the direction you were going when you bound it up, you should find a point where it lets out a couple links and the crank is no longer bound. Maybe use a piece of PVC pipe to lift up on the chain and keep tension on it.
Don't be too bummed. Maybe @half k cruiser can swing by and give you a hand as he's a lot closer than I am.
I am impressed with your work so far! Keep your chin up man! If you didn't make any mistakes it wouldn't be a learning experience. I had a ton of those "oh s***, what have I done?" moments on mine. And it all turned out great!
Click to expand...


Yes...agreed! It looks like the chain is bound up on the PS side - if so I think I would try to gently turn the crankshaft counter clockwise a few degrees at a time while pulling on the chain ... and as blkprj80 says try to find a helper to pull up as you rotate the crank back and forth ... it may take a while but the investment of a an hour is well worth it... if you can free it then once you get the timing marks lined up on the crank pulley -- you will probably find that the chain and gear marks will be exactly where they were when you took the gear of the intake cam.
 
According to @2fpower it would be safer to just take the timing chain cover out to make sure the timing is right. He is coming on Tuesday to help me with that.
 
So for other noobs like me, when you take of the tensioner from the chain and try to rotate the crankshaft you need to put a tension to the chain by raising the timing chain. Don't do the same mistake as me ..
 
Jorgito said:
According to @2fpower it would be safer to just take the timing chain cover out to make sure the timing is right. He is coming on Tuesday to help me with that.
Click to expand...

My concern was the lower chain skipping a tooth when the tension was released; however, now seeing the picture above of how tight the housing (cover) is, maybe there is no way of it skipping a tooth.

Anyone have opinions on this?
 
Well just called Robbie and he was kind to have few minutes for me. He suggests to try to move the crankshaft the other direction and try to unbind the chain.

For taking the timing chain cover out he said that I would have to take out both of the oil pan's otherwise it would be very difficult to align the timing chain cover.
 
Thanks to @2fpower the chain is unbound, I feel so lucky now. Should this be warning for others like me. We were pulling the chain putting a lot of tension on it while carefully moving the crankshaft the other direction and voila the chain was free.
 
Question: the block is exposed as in the picture. I am little afraid about corrosion because it will take two weeks to get the head back from machine shop. After I am done cleaning the block shall I spray wd-40 or aerokroil on the block and cylinders to prevent rust ?

block

block

 
I guess it would depend on your climate and the level of humidity. I live in Idaho with a dry desert climate. I left my head exposed for months (somewhere between 8 & 10) while waiting for funds to complete the project and had zero rust accumulation. I also had it in the garage the entire time.
 
Jorgito said:
Question: the block is exposed as in the picture. I am little afraid about corrosion because it will take two weeks to get the head back from machine shop. After I am done cleaning the block shall I spray wd-40 or aerokroil on the block and cylinders to prevent rust ?

block

block

Click to expand...
It will be fine. Mine took couple of weeks as well.
 
Cleaning the intake lower manifold can be done even without taking it out of the bay. I found the CARB cleaner to be pretty aggressive, not sure if it can harm aluminium or not.

intake

intake

 
So I ordered following from ajikoverlandexchange:

80 Series Modified Toyota Blue Fan Clutch (w/ JIS hardware kit)
Item# 1021 $247.00 USD 1 $247.00 USD
1FZ-FE Breeze Radiator Hose Clamp Replacement Kit (w/ OEM radiator hoses)
Item# 699 $115.00 USD 1 $115.00 USD
1FZ-FE Work Around Kit/Rear Heater Bypass – Kit 3 (1995-97)
Item# 717 $75.00 USD 1 $75.00 USD

The blue fan clutch is from landtank, probably I overpaid but I am happy to get it. I don't want to go cheap on the cooling system. I also bought the radiator hose clamp replacement kit with OEM radiator hoses. The last thing is the PHH work around and rear heater bypass kit.

I have one question regarding the rear heater bypass, what is the best way to get the coolant out of the rear hoses and pipes, it seems to be topped right now. I thought disconnecting some of the rubber hoses near the cat's but I would like to have your opinion on this one.

Thanks,

Jorge
 
I have sent these pictures to Robbie, his verdict is to get a new block. I always followed what he said but I don't have any motivation to do that. What I expect from this car is to make 15k miles trip in Russia next summer then it will be parked in garage for long time. I can get around with oil consumption (did not consume much oil on the 1500 mile trip from Phoenix to Kansas) or bad fuel economy (will have gas cans :) or lower power (I will just haul myself my wife and two kids ).

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

:(

 
What was his basis for telling you to find a new block?

Is the issue the pitting in the block?

If so, how about getting it milled?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
possible blown head gasket
Replies
5
Views
899
BILT4ME
BILT4ME
francis1540
New Head Gasket...what else?
Replies
9
Views
1K
tmxmotorsports
tmxmotorsports
G
1hdt - Head gasket leak
Replies
3
Views
1K
Gandalf80Series
G
R
FJ80 Rattle Can Paint Job
Replies
19
Views
2K
Ronin344
R

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 10 (members: 0, guests: 10)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom