Head Gasket done - no start (1 Viewer)

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Is the new head bare? No valves, guides, seals? I thought that's how they come but I could be mistaken.
 
A new head comes like this:

CD1A33C2-44E5-4171-9222-9A0B10A3DFCE.jpeg
D055A49E-C0FD-4CC5-B129-83915EC2F743.jpeg
38B35E2B-04A8-4DE6-9F34-9D9767F36A32.jpeg
 
A new head comes like this:
Wow, I actually didn't realize that. So, more and more parts to order... I figured I'd go new everything on this one, if so, I suppose I need to order more parts.
 
Yeah, looks like this I think:

13711-66030Intake Valve
13715-66030Exhaust Valve
90913-02096Valve Seals
90913-02105Valve Seals
90501-38006Valve Springs
13741-66020Valve Spring Retainers
90913-03027Valve Keeper
13751-66020Valve Lifters
13753-66020Shim



So, around $1900 +/- YMMV. That's not counting the camshafts, gears, etc. Ouch.
 
Is there a need for a new head other than starting at base with the new short block?
The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?
 
The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?
I’m pretty well nuts on going overboard to mitigate the risk (inconvenience) of failure. In this instance I would lean toward skipping the new head. Perhaps, for additional reassurance, I would take it to a second shop to verify. But, I’m certainly far from an engine rebuild expert.
 
Wow. I did not read through this from the beginning, but it looks like the block had oil starvation when you started it up? Those bearing shells should have been dripping with oil even if the engine was shut down a year ago. So if it had a mix of coolant in it, there must have been a lot in the oil pan. Water being heavier, that's what the oil pump was pumping - coolant. The end of the crank must have siezed into whatever's beyond #7 journal.
 
Fast forward a few weeks and here I am.

I decided to use the original cylinder head and cam shafts.

Received the new head gasket kit, stabilizers, motor mounts, timing chain, head bolts (again X2).

Looking things over, I am going to order a timing chain cover as mine has some deformation, not sure why.

I am considering ordering new gear/sprocket for each camshaft. They're inexpensive and I think it makes sense to mate the new timing chain to new gear/sprocket and subgear.

I'll wait for those parts and then prepare everything for assembly.
 
From the looks of it, I need to order the following. Anything else?

11310-66020 Timing Cover
15102-66020 Pump Rotor Set
15188-66020 Oil Pump Gasket
11328-66020 Timing Cover Gasket
13529-62901 Gear, Camshaft Sub
13523-66020 Gear Or Sprocket, Camshaft Timing
13540-66011 Tensioner Assy, Chain, NO.1
13522-66030 Gear, Pump Drive Shaft
13521-66020 Gear Or Sprocket, Crankshaft Timing
95161-30516 Key, Crankshaft(For Crankshaft Pulley Set)
95161-30516 Key(For Crankshaft Timing Gear)
19315-66010 Rotor, Crank Position Sensor
90119-22001 Bolt(For Crankshaft Pulley Set)
 
So have you determined exactly what happened internally in the engine and why the crankshaft could not be rotated?
Took everything apart, it seized on Cylinder 6 and the bearing caps had massive gouging at 7, 6, and 5.
 
So are you dumping that block and moving on to a new short block or something else?
The new block has arrived :) Old block is sitting in the garage.
 
Yeah, looks like this I think:

13711-66030Intake Valve
13715-66030Exhaust Valve
90913-02096Valve Seals
90913-02105Valve Seals
90501-38006Valve Springs
13741-66020Valve Spring Retainers
90913-03027Valve Keeper
13751-66020Valve Lifters
13753-66020Shim



So, around $1900 +/- YMMV. That's not counting the camshafts, gears, etc. Ouch.

How do you know which shim part # you have to order? I'm doing a full engine rebuild with a new short block + new head and would like to learn whether I can just use my existing shims or get new ones? I believe qty 24.

Thanks!
 
New valves as well, or will you be re-using those?

I may be wrong if everything is new - someone please correct me if I am, but what I would do is assemble everything with your current shims and then check your clearances. If they are out of spec, order shims of the appropriate thickness to bring the ones out of spec back into spec. When I re-did my engine, I had the head reworked by a local machine shop and then had a new short block from Toyota. I then assembled everything and made up a spreadsheet with my current shim thicknesses and all of the clearances. Some were in spec, some were out. I used the spreadsheet to mix and match the shims that I had to get as many of the clearances into spec as possible. Then, I just ordered appropriate shims for the remaining valves that were out of spec.
 
New valves as well, or will you be re-using those?

I may be wrong if everything is new - someone please correct me if I am, but what I would do is assemble everything with your current shims and then check your clearances. If they are out of spec, order shims of the appropriate thickness to bring the ones out of spec back into spec. When I re-did my engine, I had the head reworked by a local machine shop and then had a new short block from Toyota. I then assembled everything and made up a spreadsheet with my current shim thicknesses and all of the clearances. Some were in spec, some were out. I used the spreadsheet to mix and match the shims that I had to get as many of the clearances into spec as possible. Then, I just ordered appropriate shims for the remaining valves that were out of spec.

Hey Atomic, I really enjoyed your build as well.

I've got a running list of parts that I've documented here. I went from new short block + new head + transferring head innards from og engine to new sblock + head + head innards, thus the question about shims.

What I don't know is what comes with the new short block (11400-66041) and whether I have to order these parts as well.

13522-66030gear, pump drive shaft
13521-66020gear or sprocket, crankshaft timing
95161-30516Key, crankshaft (for crankshaft pulley set)
95161-30516Key (for crankshaft timing gear)
19315-66010rotor, crankshaft position sensor
90119-22001Bolt (for crankshaft pulley set)
 
Hey Atomic, I really enjoyed your build as well.

I've got a running list of parts that I've documented here. I went from new short block + new head + transferring head innards from og engine to new sblock + head + head innards, thus the question about shims.

What I don't know is what comes with the new short block (11400-66041) and whether I have to order these parts as well.

13522-66030gear, pump drive shaft
13521-66020gear or sprocket, crankshaft timing
95161-30516Key, crankshaft (for crankshaft pulley set)
95161-30516Key (for crankshaft timing gear)
19315-66010rotor, crankshaft position sensor
90119-22001Bolt (for crankshaft pulley set)

I ordered a new 13522-66030.
I ordered a new 13521-66020.
I re-used the keys from my original engine.
I re-used 19315-66010 from my original engine.
I re-used the crankshaft pulley bolt. Some recommend against this, but I have done this on several different engines over the years.
 
I ordered a new 13522-66030.
I ordered a new 13521-66020.
I re-used the keys from my original engine.
I re-used 19315-66010 from my original engine.
I re-used the crankshaft pulley bolt. Some recommend against this, but I have done this on several different engines over the years.

I added these parts to my thread along with the standard keys since there are two other options available through Toyota.

11011-66020

Thank you.
 

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