Is the new head bare? No valves, guides, seals? I thought that's how they come but I could be mistaken.
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Wow, I actually didn't realize that. So, more and more parts to order... I figured I'd go new everything on this one, if so, I suppose I need to order more parts.A new head comes like this:
13711-66030 | Intake Valve |
13715-66030 | Exhaust Valve |
90913-02096 | Valve Seals |
90913-02105 | Valve Seals |
90501-38006 | Valve Springs |
13741-66020 | Valve Spring Retainers |
90913-03027 | Valve Keeper |
13751-66020 | Valve Lifters |
13753-66020 | Shim |
The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?Is there a need for a new head other than starting at base with the new short block?
I’m pretty well nuts on going overboard to mitigate the risk (inconvenience) of failure. In this instance I would lean toward skipping the new head. Perhaps, for additional reassurance, I would take it to a second shop to verify. But, I’m certainly far from an engine rebuild expert.The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?
Took everything apart, it seized on Cylinder 6 and the bearing caps had massive gouging at 7, 6, and 5.So have you determined exactly what happened internally in the engine and why the crankshaft could not be rotated?
The new block has arrived Old block is sitting in the garage.So are you dumping that block and moving on to a new short block or something else?
Yeah, looks like this I think:
13711-66030 Intake Valve 13715-66030 Exhaust Valve 90913-02096 Valve Seals 90913-02105 Valve Seals 90501-38006 Valve Springs 13741-66020 Valve Spring Retainers 90913-03027 Valve Keeper 13751-66020 Valve Lifters 13753-66020 Shim
So, around $1900 +/- YMMV. That's not counting the camshafts, gears, etc. Ouch.
New valves as well, or will you be re-using those?
I may be wrong if everything is new - someone please correct me if I am, but what I would do is assemble everything with your current shims and then check your clearances. If they are out of spec, order shims of the appropriate thickness to bring the ones out of spec back into spec. When I re-did my engine, I had the head reworked by a local machine shop and then had a new short block from Toyota. I then assembled everything and made up a spreadsheet with my current shim thicknesses and all of the clearances. Some were in spec, some were out. I used the spreadsheet to mix and match the shims that I had to get as many of the clearances into spec as possible. Then, I just ordered appropriate shims for the remaining valves that were out of spec.
13522-66030 | gear, pump drive shaft |
13521-66020 | gear or sprocket, crankshaft timing |
95161-30516 | Key, crankshaft (for crankshaft pulley set) |
95161-30516 | Key (for crankshaft timing gear) |
19315-66010 | rotor, crankshaft position sensor |
90119-22001 | Bolt (for crankshaft pulley set) |
Hey Atomic, I really enjoyed your build as well.
I've got a running list of parts that I've documented here. I went from new short block + new head + transferring head innards from og engine to new sblock + head + head innards, thus the question about shims.
What I don't know is what comes with the new short block (11400-66041) and whether I have to order these parts as well.
13522-66030 gear, pump drive shaft 13521-66020 gear or sprocket, crankshaft timing 95161-30516 Key, crankshaft (for crankshaft pulley set) 95161-30516 Key (for crankshaft timing gear) 19315-66010 rotor, crankshaft position sensor 90119-22001 Bolt (for crankshaft pulley set)
I ordered a new 13522-66030.
I ordered a new 13521-66020.
I re-used the keys from my original engine.
I re-used 19315-66010 from my original engine.
I re-used the crankshaft pulley bolt. Some recommend against this, but I have done this on several different engines over the years.