Head Gasket Checklist, things to consider replacing as long as I am in there. (2 Viewers)

[Atwalz]

Take everything to machine shop. They will need to correct the valve shim thickness after the valve grind job or if you redoing valve seats. Cams needs to be removed again in order to reinstall the head back into motor. There is no way to access the head bolts if camshafts installed.

 

[Red Merle]

Take everything to machine shop. They will need to correct the valve shim thickness after the valve grind job or if you redoing valve seats. Cams needs to be removed again in order to reinstall the head back into motor. There is no way to access the head bolts if camshafts installed.

Thanks, this all makes more sense now. I am glad I asked. You guys are a patient and helpful bunch

 

[quasi]

bring the cams to the shop, if they are doing a valve job, they need the cams to adjust valve lash

 

[Red Merle]

Is this the right kit if I want to go the ARP stud route? The ARP part number matches what was posted in an earlier thread.

ARP 203-4205 Head Stud Kit Toyota Supra Turbo 3.0L 1993-98 2JZGE 2JZGTE 2JZA | eBay

 

[tominboise]

So one thing I did while I was in there was to add a TRD supercharger.....

 

[tominboise]

I

Is this the right kit if I want to go the ARP stud route? The ARP part number matches what was posted in an earlier thread.

ARP 203-4205 Head Stud Kit Toyota Supra Turbo 3.0L 1993-98 2JZGE 2JZGTE 2JZA | eBay

I just bought new OEM head bolts from Beno. Expensive but worth it to me. Also make sure your head gasket kit includes new valve seals. The machine shop will need them.

 

[ZackR]

Back to the EGR subject, we would be interested to hear if the failure is on #6 where the EGR dumps into. You can keep the EGR system intact and still have it temporarily disabled (resistor for temp signal and close off the vacuum ports). You could turn it on as needed for testing or if you sell the cruiser in the future the next owner can have it enabled. People are on both sides of the fence with this one but I would personally leave it disabled if it was my truck.

 

[bryanb]

Is this the right kit if I want to go the ARP stud route? The ARP part number matches what was posted in an earlier thread.

ARP 203-4205 Head Stud Kit Toyota Supra Turbo 3.0L 1993-98 2JZGE 2JZGTE 2JZA | eBay

That kit should work fine. Just make sure that there isn't any more stud sticking up past that nut than necessary when you torque them. You may find some helpful notes here: 1FZ-FE Rebuild - Restoring my FZJ80 from an early demise

 

[Red Merle]

I

I just bought new OEM head bolts from Beno. Expensive but worth it to me. Also make sure your head gasket kit includes new valve seals. The machine shop will need them.

So the OEM parts are bolts and the ARP are studs? I am trying to keep this as chimp simple as possible and the only reason I was leaning toward the ARP set was because they sound stronger and don't yield the way the OEM ones do. I am not sure which is best.

 

[Red Merle]

Back to the EGR subject, we would be interested to hear if the failure is on #6 where the EGR dumps into. You can keep the EGR system intact and still have it temporarily disabled (resistor for temp signal and close off the vacuum ports). You could turn it on as needed for testing or if you sell the cruiser in the future the next owner can have it enabled. People are on both sides of the fence with this one but I would personally leave it disabled if it was my truck.

I would do this mod if it made sense to me. I saw a couple of threads on it and I really didn't understand all of what they are detailing. I would need step by step instructions in order to do it. Beno's saws-all option looks easy, but I am not sure I want to make that type of commitment for the reasons I stated earlier. My head is kinda spinning right now, just trying to get the HG done right. Any advice here would be appreciated.

 

[tominboise]

The OEM setup uses bolts. You can measure your bolts when you remove them to see if they are stretched beyond the limit. The ARP setup uses studs. Arguments can be made for either arrangement but if you are going stock I see no reason to go with studs over the bolts. Since there is no kit explicitly for the land cruiser engine, the supra kit is used and does work. However, it does require that one pay attention to the installation height of the stud so it doesn't interfere with the cams when you install them. I personally don't see any advantage using studs over bolts, but I am sure others can make valid arguments for doing so.

 

[Atwalz]

From installation stand point, I can see the last two studs towards firewall can be PITA to install. My comment applies if the motor is still in the engine bay. If it is yanked out it is not a concern.

 

[ZackR]

I would do this mod if it made sense to me. I saw a couple of threads on it and I really didn't understand all of what they are detailing. I would need step by step instructions in order to do it. Beno's saws-all option looks easy, but I am not sure I want to make that type of commitment for the reasons I stated earlier. My head is kinda spinning right now, just trying to get the HG done right. Any advice here would be appreciated.

Focus on the HG for now and putting it back together stock. Disabling the EGR takes 10min and can easily be done after everything is back up and running.

 

[bryanb]

So the OEM parts are bolts and the ARP are studs? I am trying to keep this as chimp simple as possible and the only reason I was leaning toward the ARP set was because they sound stronger and don't yield the way the OEM ones do. I am not sure which is best.

If this is the engine's first rebuild and the stock bolts check out according to the FSM, I wouldn't be afraid to use them.

 

[Red Merle]

So, as long as I am asking questions, I have another one. I have a receipt from the PO from 2001 where they replaced the A.I.R check valve. What does this do and should I be concerned about it now? I have attached a copy of the receipt.

 

[Red Merle]

Also, do most people remove the hood to do the job? I noticed Jose removed his when he did it, but he also warned against doing it alone in the interest of saving the paint. The one thing my truck has going for it is that the body and paint are in better than average shape for a Rust Belt Cruiser. I can have a buddy or my girlfriend help me, but if it's not really necessary, I will just leave it on. I was also thinking I could just remove the bolts that hold the hydraulic lifters from the hood and give myself a bit more room by lifting the hood up further, provided it wouldn't bind on anything.

 

[Red Merle]

So one thing I did while I was in there was to add a TRD supercharger.....

Hey, if you're buying, I will toss one in too . I mean, come on, what's a few grand among friends?

 

[OGBeno]

I did my HG job with the hood on years ago. I would take it off knowing what I know now.

 

[Red Merle]

I did my HG job with the hood on years ago. I would take it off knowing what I know now.

View attachment 1331419

Yeah, I don't see myself being able to sit in there like you are. I may have had a few too many brats and beers over the course of 40 years of living in WI. I think the hood is going to have to come off.

BTW, I sent you an email a couple of days ago regarding parts. That list is growing now

 

[tominboise]

Take the hood off. You will be spending some quality time working up against the firewall and need the clearance. Also get some help to actually remove the head from the engine bay, and also to install it. I had my 19yo weight lifter son help me with the head both directions. Also helpful to have an extra around when torqueing the head and cams, to keep track of where you are and which bolt is next.