I’m about to start pulling the head on my 82 FJ60. I’m installing new head bolts when the head is rebuilt. Should I use never seize on the threads of the new bolts ? My biggest concern is snapping the head off . Has anyone ever had that happen ? Should I use an impact on them ?
Head bolts questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter pdugas
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Don't use antiseize on the bolts. Toyota recommendation is to coat the threads in oil when you install. There is a specific tightening pattern, it's shown in the FSM. Tighten the bolts in several passes, 30 ft-lbs, 60 ft-lbs, 90 ft-lbs. The last torque may not exactly be 90, check the FSM for that.
Clean out the bolt holes in the block before installation, run a tap through if you have it.
Clean out the bolt holes in the block before installation, run a tap through if you have it.
My engine builder who has rebuilt a hundred 2Fs (used to be Man-a-Fre's builder and K&H LC) used Never-seize regular. I watched him do it. He coated the entire bolt, with a dollop under the bolt head. He wiped excess off the bottom flat of the bolt, leaving a thin smear. Head was cut so he used washers under the Head Bolts and coated the washer with anti-sieze. After torqueing sequence, he wiped away excess.
As stated above, important to clean out the block holes with a flat-bottom tap. They're a little hard to find. If you have new head bolts you can cut a couple grooves into an old bolt and use that.
Just my preference, but I wouldn't use an impact. I gradually loosen in reverse order of tightening. Probably just me being anal, though.
As stated above, important to clean out the block holes with a flat-bottom tap. They're a little hard to find. If you have new head bolts you can cut a couple grooves into an old bolt and use that.
Just my preference, but I wouldn't use an impact. I gradually loosen in reverse order of tightening. Probably just me being anal, though.
I use anti seize but torque with regular wrench .I re tap almost everything I take apart.
Interesting. I wonder if the Toyota recommendation of oil preceded the development of anti-seize and either serves the same purpose.
No idea on that - I had read Lub'ing Head Bolts was to get a more precise and consistent Torque reading over dry. Dry head bolts increase friction and REDUCE clamping force (a lot) at the same torque reading as lubed. Both oil and anti-sieze (light grease w/ powdered sacrificial metal) do the same thing.
I've never heard of or seen one break; they're M13 reusable head bolts - but I guess anything is possible with enough force.
No breaks but had some extremely hard to get out.
cwwfj60
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I had one break on a 3fe once.
g-man
SILVER Star
g-man
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I cleaned the bolt heads and numbered them with a silver sharpie.
g-man
SILVER Star
Working alone, I found the 2x4" board laid from the radiator support wall over to the top of the pcv pipe helpful for sliding the head into position without disturbing the gasket. This idea totally stolen from @joebattle1. Notice I had my head guy replace the freeze plugs too. One thing to make sure is that you fully seat the rocker rail studs. Use two nuts tightened together on the stud and then run them down. I had one that wasn't fully seated and caused an oil leak at the valve cover gasket and caused me to WAYYYY overtighten a valve cover nut to the point I stripped it trying to get the valve cover to seat on the gasket. Ended up it was the stud that was not fully seated.
