Builds HDJ80 LHD #snlcbuilt Ute (pickup) (2 Viewers)

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Burning the midnight oil, I am motivated today. 😆

So far I have been planning on keeping the frame front axle radius arm mount stock, just moved forward 2”. I have however been thinking about beefing it up, I like what I saw a German member do to rebuild his and add caster, in particular what I liked was how he beefed it up. I have had it in the back of my mind to do the same, not add caster by dropping it but beefing it up.

However I have this, a pair of frame outriggers which look pretty friggin good just holding up here.

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Here it is, a link mount hanger to go with it. 🥸🧐

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I like it after just a quick idea-look!

I have another idea-plan. I have not checked numbers yet on this one but the idea is, make a set of radius arms I use for the hardest trails, call them my “crawler arms”. Use some Summit or Ballistic or Johnny Joints in the OEM radius arms. Machine the sockets in the arms as needed to suit, again not sure if possible without checking numbers but I do like the idea.

Cheers
 
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Alright so I have a new ACSD (automatic cold start device) but I have decided I don’t want to run it. I am also deleting the SICS (starting injection control system) which is NLA anyways.

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Made a block off plate for the ACSD but the paint is super slow to cure in this 100*.

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A/C idle up assembly, I wouldn’t mind running this but can’t find one new so going to dump it. Cruiser will have a hand throttle which I will just use when I want the idle up a little.

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Cheers

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Yes it is out of sync l, it wasn’t when I installed it. With no cam or rocker assembly in it, it doesn’t matter, simply need to set it at BDC now before installing the top end. I lubed it all and rotated which is why the match marks don’t line up.


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Injection pump gear is NLA for an FT along with the idler so those I re-used, everything else is new.

Cheers
 
Going to see if I can get the steering box placement all worked out this weekend. Supposed to be 100* tomorrow so who knows! 🥵🤗

I have decided to do a 4-link in the rear. RuffStuff housing likely. I have some wild (but solid) ideas rolling around in my head for rear suspension and the bed. Fuel tank placement, spare tire placement, trundle drawer maybe under the bed. No high mount flat bed like the Aussies do, wheel wells up into the bed instead for up travel. Go 14” rear shock and yes do it on coil springs!

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I have also just about decided I am going low profile canopy (Aussie style) but keep it low enough to mount a hard shell RTT which will match the roof height of the cab. Long ways out on any of that though! 🤗

Cheers
 
Alright just did 12hrs in the shop on this build. I didn’t work yesterday, to hot at 100*! I was going to start in on mounting the steering box but instead worked on coils and shocks.

I started by mocking it up as originally planned with coil center on the axle tube. Here is a pic of that and checking at bump. Notice the radius arm clearance to frame, I really think I am good without carving the bottom of the frame, it has 2” and I am not setting the shock up to compress more than an inch past full bump.

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After getting it all mocked up like this with the shock it became clear I needed more separation between the coil bucket and the shock tower or more to the point the shock. These 2.5” Fox are big! It may have cleared just barely the way I had it but the shock body was to close to the coil bucket on the frame for my liking. So I remade the axle side coil bucket mount an off set.

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This obviously allows me to push the coil bucket frame side forward. On the second mock up (above pic and rest of pics) it’s just roughly mocked up, nothing is really in place exactly or perfectly aligned. It was on the first go and I even test fit the 70-series coil spring but no pics of that. I doubt I will have this much separation between the shock tower and coil bucket frame side when done, I have also hacked up these shock towers a lot and may have to figure something else out for final. However they are allowing me to figure out correct height of the tower and the angle of the dangle I want.

Cheers
 
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So after a lot of trial and error I have it pretty well figured out, at least in my head.

I have two style of shock mounts, these place the shock about 2” off the tube but are meant to be mounted fairly level.

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I know this will clear the tie rod at full lock which was the problem with these other shock mounts I have. I like these other mounts better though because they are designed to be dropped a bit on the axle tube center line which allows me to lower the overall shock tower height. They are also beefier, at least until I cut them up!

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After cutting those up and getting them closer to the axle it puts the shock about 2.25” off the axle tube. That should clear the tie rod.

Again, nothing set here, this is second mock up and a rough one at that. I am holding the shock mount in place I want to use.

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As you can see these Fox 2.5’s are beefy! I can barely hold it in here and take the pic! 😂

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I did carve out the inner fenders on both sides as well to clear the shocks. Any ways this is the route I am going. Everything will be checked both sides for full compression and bump when done with mock up so just wait for it! 😂😋🤙

Cheers
 
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I found this an interesting comparison, the Kings are a 2.5” for 3-5” lift.

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Man these Fox are super sexy! 🥰

Cheers
 
King fronts? They use a smaller shaft than the rears for some reason. The Fox's do look good!

Ya fronts, not knocking the Kings by any means, best bolt in shock you can get for an 80 in my opinion. Just stoked on the Fox for this build.

Cheers
 
You may have mentioned it earlier, but what's the part number for the Fox shocks (front/rear). I know your using some 70 series parts, but are the shocks 80 series?
 
You may have mentioned it earlier, but what's the part number for the Fox shocks (front/rear). I know your using some 70 series parts, but are the shocks 80 series?

No, they are simply a universal with eye to eye. Converting all the mounts to eye to eye. I don’t believe Fox makes a 2.5 bolt in for an 80.

Cheers
 
No, they are simply a universal with eye to eye. Converting all the mounts to eye to eye. I don’t believe Fox makes a 2.5 bolt in for an 80.

Cheers
Thank you for the clarification.
 
Some engine assembly today.

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Lower case is all buttoned up. You can’t get the outer (front) case anymore from Toyota so I had the original vapor hone and clear coated. The inner case with the oil pump is still available for the FT so that is new. All gears and the bearing in the timing case plus thrust washer, etc-all are new except the injection pump gear which I believe is NLA for the FT. The rest, idler (I think also NLA), oil pump drive, crank timing I was able to get new OEM so that’s what went in it. I rotated the lower end assembly a number of times to make sure TDC and BDC line up. Good to go! Need some hardware though, new OEM will only due, if I want to get the rest of the timing case done.

Cheers
 
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Coil spring retainers I made for the front springs.

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Coil buckets frame and axle side moved 1.5” forward from what I had it before, ie centered.

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These are OME 70-series 859 coils, giving six inches to bump (1” more than desired) with just the body and frame weight on them. They are supporting the weight in these pics.

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Cheers
 
I am happy with that, going to burn it on (at least a bit) right now.

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Shocks, steering box and panhard left. Oh ya, and a sway bar. 🙄🤗🤦‍♂️

Cheers
 
Getting ready to weld out the shock and coil mounts axle/frame right now.

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I am happy with how the shock towers turned out frame side. We used a RuffStuff coil over tower, cut it up and welded back together to suit this build. Built our own shock tabs for them too. Will do one final thing to them to counter the weld down the center of the tower.

Cheers
 

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