HDJ100 swap (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter eleblanc
- Start date
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I just checked with my local parts guru and the dual AC compressor cylinder head (88321-32010) is available from Toyota here for under $150. Currently there are two in California. It appears to be a common part on most Toyota/Lexus AC compressors
- Thread starter
- #83
Now I'm wondering if the wiring harness under the dash of the HDJ can handle the rear AC. The heater /ac control untis are not the same, the HDJ has a rear hi-low heater push button, the UZJ has a REAR only button, i beleive this button only activate or disable the rear roof climate control. The wiring harness from the HDJ and UZJ have both the same plug that connect into the climate control box. The hardness from the HDJ does have the rear connection to the optional Roof wire 82172. But there seems to have many type of dash harness (82136)
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
dunno if helps .. but my 95 HDJ80 which it's just 1HD-T have dual AC and center fridge ..
Don't know about the wiring, but the center dash board from HDJ and UZJ can be swapped, all the switches are present on both.
And I remember someone using the blank switch to power something in the rear, so ...
I checked at dealer for piping between compressor and rear element... something around 1800$, and it looks like they don't last long.
Sorry everybody for switching to french, but my english is not fluent enough to say what I want to add and I guess Eleblanc speaks french.
La tuyauterie entre le compresseur et l'évaporateur est composée de plusieurs tuyaux en alu dont l'extrémité se termine par des pièces filetées en acier.
Alu + acier +sel = corrosion galvanique, les joint sont rapidement détruit (2 hivers pour moi) et ne se détaillent pas, il faut racheter les tuyaux entier.
If you want to go that way, my advice would be to find someone able to build "one piece" pipes.
I spend 800$ to fix my AC this summer and I have now another leak somewhere else
And I remember someone using the blank switch to power something in the rear, so ...
I checked at dealer for piping between compressor and rear element... something around 1800$, and it looks like they don't last long.
Sorry everybody for switching to french, but my english is not fluent enough to say what I want to add and I guess Eleblanc speaks french.
La tuyauterie entre le compresseur et l'évaporateur est composée de plusieurs tuyaux en alu dont l'extrémité se termine par des pièces filetées en acier.
Alu + acier +sel = corrosion galvanique, les joint sont rapidement détruit (2 hivers pour moi) et ne se détaillent pas, il faut racheter les tuyaux entier.
If you want to go that way, my advice would be to find someone able to build "one piece" pipes.
I spend 800$ to fix my AC this summer and I have now another leak somewhere else
Pour ceux qui ne parlent pas français
"The pipes between the compressor and the evaporator are sections of aluminum piping with steel threaded ends. The aluminum and steel connection points lead to galvanic corrosion and you end up with leaks in the system requiring you to buy new sections of piping."
I'd agree that the stock piping may not be the best way to go here. Rear AC leaks are pretty commonplace here on a variety of Toyota vehicles because of the salt, and I'd expect it would be worse in Montreal. I'd look at trying to get rubber hoses made with the correct fittings and attach them to the underside of the body instead.
Hi Adam,Pour ceux qui ne parlent pas français
Thanks...I'll call you next time I have something complicated to say
- Thread starter
- #89
We have a rolling frame.
A other day or two and everything should be on the frame ready to receive the body.
Anti rust stuff.....every little hole, crack, etc.. was sprayed. Frame also receive a good layer inside.
A other day or two and everything should be on the frame ready to receive the body.
Anti rust stuff.....every little hole, crack, etc.. was sprayed. Frame also receive a good layer inside.
- Thread starter
- #91
Frame is ready to receive body, but the body is not...So next we will prepare the body.
I may not drop the body over the frame until i receive t-belt, injection pipe from japan, anyway once the body is ready to receive the frame we are mostlike going to pull the UZJ dash and start working there.
It is very easy to put the harness tube, etc... back in place, it is obvious where they go and clip. BUT when you remove the harness clip holder from donor truck, be gentle and try to save them, we had to clue with epoxy most of them.
And we also managed to get a rare lexus (Very rare in Canada), as a template for a few question we had.!
So first picture for Landcruiser Art...too bad for bad picture quality and lighting!
Yeah i now the stock exhaust is back on, i'll deal with the whining later on
I may not drop the body over the frame until i receive t-belt, injection pipe from japan, anyway once the body is ready to receive the frame we are mostlike going to pull the UZJ dash and start working there.
It is very easy to put the harness tube, etc... back in place, it is obvious where they go and clip. BUT when you remove the harness clip holder from donor truck, be gentle and try to save them, we had to clue with epoxy most of them.
And we also managed to get a rare lexus (Very rare in Canada), as a template for a few question we had.!
So first picture for Landcruiser Art...too bad for bad picture quality and lighting!
Yeah i now the stock exhaust is back on, i'll deal with the whining later on
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Thank you for update!
- Thread starter
- #94
Rally raid preparation is really a huge challenge... awesome
May I ask, why you are installing the AHC?
I like that HDJ100 Rally-Raid trucks exhaust....maybe that, coming out both sides...is what my truck needs to be loud again?
I like that HDJ100 Rally-Raid trucks exhaust....maybe that, coming out both sides...is what my truck needs to be loud again?
- Thread starter
- #97
May I ask, why you are installing the AHC?
I like that HDJ100 Rally-Raid trucks exhaust....maybe that, coming out both sides...is what my truck needs to be loud again?
Because i have it, because i assume it works fine, and because i have enough $$ on this for now, and don't want to put the $$ on a OME.
I have 500$ for t-belt, tensioner and 6x injector pipes coming. I've been told i could probably not change them, but it is part of the t-belt maintenance every 100 t-miles.
Then, I may need a other 400-500$ of parts to get the rear AC going, maybe more if i have to change compressor covers, but that is not really a priority since i doubt i'll ever use it.
Then i want a Kenwood DNX...1200-1300$
And finally sliders..
And i forgot! winter tires.......
i'll try to live with the AHC for now. Other then being subject to alot of problems, what is wrong with it when it runs fine?
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The only issue I heard about is you can't carry more than 400kg while in "high" position, wich is a major concern when you want to cross Sahara
Don't know about the "medium" position
- Thread starter
- #99
Yeah that is what i read, when loaded it start to act up. Will see.
- Thread starter
- #100
For the record, fuel line clips and nut. If you do this swap order those, you will mostlikely need them
-1x 77285-60190
-1x 77285-60200
-2x 77286-60050
-1x 77289-60050
-2x 77298-60020
-1x 77299-60020
-1x 77273-60090
-8x 90179-06161
-1x 77285-60190
-1x 77285-60200
-2x 77286-60050
-1x 77289-60050
-2x 77298-60020
-1x 77299-60020
-1x 77273-60090
-8x 90179-06161
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