Having a few engine dramas with my hj47 2h (2 Viewers)

[mitchell20]

Hey guys, currently restoring a 1981 hj47 and I’ve been chasing a little engine drama for awhile and can’t quite seem to fix it. The Ute I bought has had a couple restore attempts so not sure what’s been done engine wise, it’s blowing a decent amount of white smoke on acceleration and a small amount on idle untill it warms up (white smoke continues on acceleration even when it’s at running temp). Compression tested and numbers are good, Head gasket has been replaced, heat cycled and re-torqued just been running water, valve stem seals replaced, timed the fuel pump was 5-6 degrees out of spec, replaced the diaphram in the back of the pump. Injectors are my next thing to get rebuilt just curious if anyone else has any suggestions on what it could be? This motor hasn’t had a good run in 10+ years I reckon, could it just need a good run when the cabs back on? Cheers guys- Mitchell

 

[45Dougal]

Sounds like you've read the smoke sticky on the diesel forum already, and injectors are next place to look. You can try running some injector cleaner, but if your cab isn't on then you won't run a whole tank through before Christmas.

Strip and test them all is your next best option I guess.

Sure it's white and not blue?

 

[mitchell20]

Sounds like you've read the smoke sticky on the diesel forum already, and injectors are next place to look. You can try running some injector cleaner, but if your cab isn't on then you won't run a whole tank through before Christmas.

Strip and test them all is your next best option I guess.

Sure it's white and not blue?

It was blue at one stage untill I changed the valve stem seals and then that sorted the blue problem, the motor runs really well I’ll get some photos today of the colour and upload them. Injectors are a little noisy on number 2 and 6 so fingers crossed that could be it

 

[mitchell20]

 

[45Dougal]

Looks white to me but hard to tell with a blue car behind it haha.

Do you have a Wilson switch or the correct glow timer?

The timer keeps it warm a bit longer and reduces white smoke at start up.
You can try firing the glow plugs briefly to see if your smoke disappears - that confirms at least that its unburnt diesel.

Take one of those injectors out and see how it looks.

Is the license plate correct btw - is Victoria the place to be?

 

[mitchell20]

Looks white to me but hard to tell with a blue car behind it haha.

Do you have a Wilson switch or the correct glow timer?

The timer keeps it warm a bit longer and reduces white smoke at start up.
You can try firing the glow plugs briefly to see if your smoke disappears - that confirms at least that its unburnt diesel.

Take one of those injectors out and see how it looks.

Is the license plate correct btw - is Victoria the place to be?

The glow plugs arnt hooked up at the moment been giving it a hit with start ya bastard to get it going, the big puff is while accelerating it and the normal puff is at idle for probably 4-5minutes after starting. I dropped the injectors off today to be tested and rebuilt they didn’t look to bad though on the ends. The smoke does smell like fuel but I’ll put some 12v glow plugs in and dummy wire up a switch to make sure. Haha Victoria is great for fwding and camping but that’s about it pretty average place. Thanks for the replies mate it’s a huge help fingers crossed it’s the injectors

 

[45Dougal]

The glow plugs arnt hooked up at the moment been giving it a hit with start ya bastard to get it going, the big puff is while accelerating it and the normal puff is at idle for probably 4-5minutes after starting. I dropped the injectors off today to be tested and rebuilt they didn’t look to bad though on the ends. The smoke does smell like fuel but I’ll put some 12v glow plugs in and dummy wire up a switch to make sure. Haha Victoria is great for fwding and camping but that’s about it pretty average place. Thanks for the replies mate it’s a huge help fingers crossed it’s the injectors

Sounds like it's heavy on fuel - I think you checked the timing already but maybe worth another check.
Throttle linkage is setup ok?

 

[mitchell20]

Sounds like it's heavy on fuel - I think you checked the timing already but maybe worth another check.
Throttle linkage is setup ok?

Yeah good idea I’ll double check it and just make sure I done it right, throttle linkage looks to be okay I haven’t opened the pump up and had a look but it seems to be doing what it should, I haven’t opened the pump up but im hoping it’s not the pump.

 

[mitchell20]

Quick edit got injectors reconditioned they had no break pressure so they were constantly drizzling, definitely made an improvement but isn’t the whole
Problem I’m still getting the white smoke just
Not as bad. Still yet to re time the pump that’s this weekends job the white smoke is more on acceleration now if I accelerate it and hold it after accelerating the white smoke clears it’s only on the build up is when the white smoke is
Happening. Cheers guys

 

[duncanrm]

Had you considered that the Leather Diaphragm in the injection pump might be broken? Easy fix if it is, I wrote a small guide on how to fix this linked below. Also check that the two hoses from the throttle body to the injection pump governor housing are in good order.

For more 2H stuff, see the link in my signature.

Leather Diaphragm - how to change.

 

[duncanrm]

Also..

• I dont know who you're using for injectors but the engine would not have been running if they had "no break pressure".. the vehicle isnt common rail so there's also little prospect of the injectors "constantly dribbling" either. I would definitely hold off on retiming the pump until you've confirmed that the diaphragm and throttle body to pump hoses are in good condition.
• You have an oil centrifuge fitted above your oil filter - this can make getting to your diaphragm a little fiddlier - it would be worth disassembling and cleaning that when you check the diaphragm - you can see some images of a disassembled centrifuge here: Centrifuge images
• Nice work on the chassis etc.. looks great, send more photos!

 

[mitchell20]

Also..

• I dont know who you're using for injectors but the engine would not have been running if they had "no break pressure".. the vehicle isnt common rail so there's also little prospect of the injectors "constantly dribbling" either. I would definitely hold off on retiming the pump until you've confirmed that the diaphragm and throttle body to pump hoses are in good condition.
• You have an oil centrifuge fitted above your oil filter - this can make getting to your diaphragm a little fiddlier - it would be worth disassembling and cleaning that when you check the diaphragm - you can see some images of a disassembled centrifuge here: Centrifuge images
• Nice work on the chassis etc.. looks great, send more photos!

Hey mate thanks for replying, I’ve replaced the diaphragm using your guide a month or two ago really great guide btw! and it didn’t make a difference, also replaced them hoses and resealed the throttle body it definitely helped but the issue is still there on acceleration. Didn’t drain the oil tho out of the pump that’s something I’ll be doing when I get home could this be a leading cause as well? I’m really not sure what I’ve missed any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

[duncanrm]

Hey mate thanks for replying, I’ve replaced the diaphragm using your guide a month or two ago really great guide btw! and it didn’t make a difference, also replaced them hoses and resealed the throttle body it definitely helped but the issue is still there on acceleration. Didn’t drain the oil tho out of the pump that’s something I’ll be doing when I get home could this be a leading cause as well? I’m really not sure what I’ve missed any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Interesting..

Does it happen whilst blipping the throttle whilst stationary? If so try moving the fuel control lever towards the STOP position (ie towards the radiator).. not quite enough to stop the engine - and have someone rev it whilst you do that.. see if the smoke reduces.. this will give you an idea if its overfuelling or not. Has the Fuel Control Lever been off the pump recently?

 

[duncanrm]

PS.. if the smoke reduces you can wind in the fuel screw (towards radiator).. keep winding it in until smoke stops or power drop off becomes unacceptable.

 

[mitchell20]

Interesting..

Does it happen whilst blipping the throttle whilst stationary? If so try moving the fuel control lever towards the STOP position (ie towards the radiator).. not quite enough to stop the engine - and have someone rev it whilst you do that.. see if the smoke reduces.. this will give you an idea if its overfuelling or not. Has the Fuel Control Lever been off the pump recently?

View attachment 3429764

Hey mate I have tried that and didn’t make a difference at all, the pump hasn’t been touched. The cars had a few people try and restore it before I have so I’m not sure what’s been touched and what hasn’t. It happens when ever you accelerate it more smoke at higher Rpms I’ve tried adjusting that screw it goes black when I wind it out but the white smoke is still there, when I wind it in the white smoke is still there. I’m a little stumped on what to do

 

[duncanrm]

How far have you wound it in? Enough that power is impacted? I am wondering if the rack is stuck in the full open position.. I would consider taking off the side inspection plate of the pump and operating the fuel control lever.. the plate is easy to get off. You should see the rack move like this:

 

[mitchell20]

How far have you wound it in? Enough that power is impacted? I am wondering if the rack is stuck in the full open position.. I would consider taking off the side inspection plate of the pump and operating the fuel control lever.. the plate is easy to get off. You should see the rack move like this:

Hey mate yeah I have I wound it right in makes it real slow to accelerate but I’ll definitely take that plate off and have a look that’s good to know, I might find something wrong with it in there.

 

[mitchell20]

How far have you wound it in? Enough that power is impacted? I am wondering if the rack is stuck in the full open position.. I would consider taking off the side inspection plate of the pump and operating the fuel control lever.. the plate is easy to get off. You should see the rack move like this:

Dropped the oil it did look old, popped the cover off all looked as normal and all moved freely no springs were loose they all felt good, I pulled the back diaphram cover off to just to make sure I had it on right and it was all good. Replaced all the hoses with new clamps onto the throttle body will run up tomorrow and see how it goes

 

[mitchell20]

I replaced that blue boost hose with proper stuff.