Have you seen an 80 this rusted out?

Would you pay $6,000?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 35 100.0%

  • Total voters
    35

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All good info to know. Thanks everybody. I think my best option would be sending it to Camelback Toyota for an inspection before flying down and being disappointed when I show up. Given that I'm not getting to much descriptive information out of the owner or great pictures who knows what issues it might have going on with it.
 
I saw rust and $6,000 and didn't even have to look at the photos to know the answer.
 
Ur doing right thing. When the f is on da brain is gone. is a local expression for car buying. A rust hole in w well might cost you a 1000$ to fix in a shop. To "restore" more $ than you'd believe. If it's to be a dd you won't have time to do much yourself. They are super vehicles you just need the right one. Good luck on your quest. That's a 2000 parts truck if that. Ps getting it checked out or going further than across the street is throwing good money after bad. IMHO.
 
Be patient. The right cruiser will come. Not to steer you clear of the 80 series but test drive the GX470. Prices are coming down on these rigs and the 2UZ is a wonderful engine.
 
I could part with mine that doesn't have any rust issues for a little more than that, and a shorter drive. Shoot me a text if you're interested.

307-250-8785
 
definitely not worth $6k. that much rust, especially on fluid lines, is a pain in the ass the deal with. I know from extensive experience.
@BILT4ME is right. mine was worse, but this isn't far off. Find another cruiser that lived its whole life in AZ. landcruiserphil doesn't have a spec of rust on his, I've seen it. His also isn't for sale.
 
See if you can give the guy $400 for the bumper and put it on a different 80.
 
I will say though that the first truck really isn't that rusty. Sure, the shocks, ABS wires and some of the bolts are pretty corroded, but those are replaceable parts. The frame still has all the paint on it from what I can see and the parts that they took pics of appear to be the rustiest parts. See that inner bolt on the rear crossmember? That one looks normal. I think a few hours underneath with the angle grinder and a wire wheel, followed by repeated applications of either Fluid Film or bar chain oil would make that rig pretty easy to work on and the rust is totally manageable if you keep after it.

I realize that it is more work, but dealing with a rusty truck really isn't that bad if you have patience. Sure, rust free is better, but if I am buying something to use and drive I would rather buy the slightly rusty truck that I can look over and see in person than take a flyer on the kinda beat looking FJ80 that has at least a handful of significant issues visible in the few pics they shared.

What does the body on the rusty one look like? I can deal with a rusty undercarriage, but I am much more averse to rust on the body in large amounts.

All that said, I wouldn't pay $6000 for either one of those rigs. If the rusty one was running good and the interior was decent and the body was solid, I would pay $3000-$4000 for that one and I don't think I would go past $4000 for the 3FE one.

If you really want turn key, really good overall condition, I think you are going to need to think about spending more like $9000-12,000 if you also include the inevitable new parts it will need, shipping, taxes, etc. That's just pretty much how much those cost these days. Sure, people will say that they got their triple locked beauty with manual cloth seats, no running boards, no sunroof, no roof rack, with all PM done for $3000, but those people either really lucked out or they don't understand where the market is for these trucks is right now.

The bottom line is that these trucks are rare and sought after. There are very few left that are owned by the original soccer mom that has no idea what it is and their prices reflect that.

If you want to get into a reliable 80 Series you either pay up front or you pay by fixing one up.

If you aren't in a rush and you want rust free, you'll have to be willing to travel or pay to have it shipped. The best cars are from the Pacific Northwest where it rains but doesn't snow a ton, Texas, Southern California, the desert southwest and then in the urban southeast in that order. Anything from the mountains will likely be used heavily and anywhere right next to the ocean is prone to have rust issues. Trucks from the desert and high heat areas will have more paint and interior issues and all the dust and heat does a number on the rubber under the hood and in the motor itself. The midwest is OK if you can find something from OK, MO, KS, the Dakotas, etc that didn't see a lot of salt, but they weren't popular cars there. Everything from the Upper Midwest or the North East will be rusty AF unless it was one like mine that was stored during the winters for the most part.

Honestly, I see some of the best deals on the trucks that have been maintained the best right here in our classifieds. They aren't cheap, but you have a much better idea of what you are getting.
 
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I just bought one for less than a 1/3 of that cost the frame is gone... going to pick up a rolling chassis monday to do a swap... the engine in it is great just the frame... have not done an inspection on the gears or any of that yet... I hope they are good enough were I can sale them... the engine has 110k on it only one tear on a rear seat... I wish I had some photos to show you now... if you want let me know I will get some for you both inside and the nightmare of a frame...
 
Just gonna keep posting my options on this thread as I enjoy your guys opinions and being somewhat of a learning newb I'm getting a lot of good info. So i have found a couple more cruisers that are closer to me. The first being another 3FE which is my preference as I believe it'll overall be easier to learn to wrench on.(some may disagree) So here is the description in the for sale ad:

1992 Land Cruiser 168,000 original miles, runs great!! Cylinder Head, Radiator, and hoses replaced 2015(approx 10,000 mi.) Complete Knuckle Service done on Front Axle 2015(10,000 mi). New Windshield. K & N air filter. Has Sunroof, A/C works, interior in great condition. 31 x 10.50 x 15 tires.

So my limited knowledge thinks it must have overheated and that is the reason for cylinder head and radiator work. The other knuckle work just preventative care? The hood and roof paint is oxidizing which is no biggie to me. For $5000 would you touch a cruiser that has had this much work done? I like the mileage, seems relatively low for FJ80's these days. My gut instict is if it was around $4000 I'd jump on it.

The other cruiser is a 94 with 3,000 more miles and no records of maintenance but the owner says no major work has had to be done. But I know the FJZ is a little more vulnerable to head gasket issues so that scares me. The 94 is $7000
 
Just gonna keep posting my options on this thread as I enjoy your guys opinions and being somewhat of a learning newb I'm getting a lot of good info. So i have found a couple more cruisers that are closer to me. The first being another 3FE which is my preference as I believe it'll overall be easier to learn to wrench on.(some may disagree) So here is the description in the for sale ad:

1992 Land Cruiser 168,000 original miles, runs great!! Cylinder Head, Radiator, and hoses replaced 2015(approx 10,000 mi.) Complete Knuckle Service done on Front Axle 2015(10,000 mi). New Windshield. K & N air filter. Has Sunroof, A/C works, interior in great condition. 31 x 10.50 x 15 tires.

So my limited knowledge thinks it must have overheated and that is the reason for cylinder head and radiator work. The other knuckle work just preventative care? The hood and roof paint is oxidizing which is no biggie to me. For $5000 would you touch a cruiser that has had this much work done? I like the mileage, seems relatively low for FJ80's these days. My gut instict is if it was around $4000 I'd jump on it.

The other cruiser is a 94 with 3,000 more miles and no records of maintenance but the owner says no major work has had to be done. But I know the FJZ is a little more vulnerable to head gasket issues so that scares me. The 94 is $7000


The 3FE is not known for having head gasket issues so I would want to know more about why that needed to be done. As for the knuckle job, that is just normal maintenance for these trucks and if they did it properly, having it out of the way will save you a weekend and some cash for parts.

The '94 would be my choice because I prefer the 1FZ-FE but either one sounds pretty good and the prices are about what you would expect for these trucks in good shape. I wouldn't get hung up on the mileage really. At this point condition is the more important factor.
 
Just gonna keep posting my options on this thread as I enjoy your guys opinions and being somewhat of a learning newb I'm getting a lot of good info. So i have found a couple more cruisers that are closer to me. The first being another 3FE which is my preference as I believe it'll overall be easier to learn to wrench on.(some may disagree) So here is the description in the for sale ad:

1992 Land Cruiser 168,000 original miles, runs great!! Cylinder Head, Radiator, and hoses replaced 2015(approx 10,000 mi.) Complete Knuckle Service done on Front Axle 2015(10,000 mi). New Windshield. K & N air filter. Has Sunroof, A/C works, interior in great condition. 31 x 10.50 x 15 tires.

So my limited knowledge thinks it must have overheated and that is the reason for cylinder head and radiator work. The other knuckle work just preventative care? The hood and roof paint is oxidizing which is no biggie to me. For $5000 would you touch a cruiser that has had this much work done? I like the mileage, seems relatively low for FJ80's these days. My gut instict is if it was around $4000 I'd jump on it.

The other cruiser is a 94 with 3,000 more miles and no records of maintenance but the owner says no major work has had to be done. But I know the FJZ is a little more vulnerable to head gasket issues so that scares me. The 94 is $7000

I think you would be happier with the power of the FJZ which is pretty significant..If you are going that route try for a 1995 (you'll have to double check the particular vehicle for that year) and newer because you get the better IMHO dash and more importantly you get OBDII
 
The FJZ is looking more attractive.. gonna check it out Thursday and get a drive in for first impressions. I'll take pics of any problem areas that I can tell and see what you guys think.
 
If you pay more than $2K for that rustbucket, you got took. Even then, if you an to wrench it you better have experience with rusty hardware or else every 'quick thing' is going to become a 'all day / weekend thing'

You live in CO, you don't need to buy a heap, wait for a good one.

I'm not feeling that AZ rig either - 3FE's are fine, but taken to altitude they're kinda asthmatic feeling.

Expand your search, or expand your budget, or both.

That rusty one is going to eat your wallet faster than a 80 that's had a "low sodium diet" - don't kid yourself it's any kind of deal.
 
You Pacific Northwest people just crack me up. There is hardly any permanent rust on that truck. Those ABS brackets were made out of tinfoil and good intentions but they also rust up like nobody's business. Once you get all of that out of there, that is a pretty clean rig overall. You would probably require an oxygen mask if I took you spelunking in the rust caves of Toyota in the midwestern part of this country.

Send all of your $2000 trucks my way if they look like that. I will pay straight cash for those. :clap:

EDIT: Not joking, if you could pick up a truck load of Cruisers in that condition or better, running or not, I would invest in that. 4-5 vehicles. I could get $10-12K ready and pay for shipping if the trucks really were that affordable.
 
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