Has anyone upgraded their 3B cooling system? (1 Viewer)

[iliketrucks]

I'm parked for the winter, it's upgrade/maintenance season!

My 2B does fine most of the time, but I'm struggling to keep the temps under control in harsher conditions. Those situations include idling in traffic on a hot summer day with the AC on, and highway speeds when there's a very slight incline and temps are above maybe 85 °F outside. The worst was pulling a small trailer with a kayak, on a 100 °F day, going 55 mph with the heaters blasting and windows down and still running too hot, I wish I had been going 65 with the AC on. I have my max boost set to 5 PSI and keep my EGTs under 600 °C.

I could probably use a radiator rodding, but if I'm expecting to crank 30% more power out of an engine (someday), while still wanting to use every bit of it, on hot days with the AC running, then it would make sense that I need to upgrade the radiator/fan/fan clutch right? My searches show a lot of posts about overheating, but not many about upgrading. From my searches, the stock 40 series radiator is about 19x17" (329 sq in), some vehicles with the 1HZ have a 22x21" (462 sq in) radiator, and I imagine a boosted 3.4 L IDI isn't too far behind a NA 4.2 IDI as far as cooling needs go.

 

[Hulsty]

Sorry not much help in a 40 series, I've got a generation newer, 70 series which is reasonably easy to upgrade the cooling system. Later 70 series had taller radiators which bolt in the same position and on my 13BT (pressume 3B uses same pattern) it was a bolt on upgrade to the 1HDFTE fan clutch and fan (trimmed blades to suit).

 

[Smotride]

I'm parked for the winter, it's upgrade/maintenance season!

My 2B does fine most of the time, but I'm struggling to keep the temps under control in harsher conditions. Those situations include idling in traffic on a hot summer day with the AC on, and highway speeds when there's a very slight incline and temps are above maybe 85 °F outside. The worst was pulling a small trailer with a kayak, on a 100 °F day, going 55 mph with the heaters blasting and windows down and still running too hot, I wish I had been going 65 with the AC on. I have my max boost set to 5 PSI and keep my EGTs under 600 °C.

I could probably use a radiator rodding, but if I'm expecting to crank 30% more power out of an engine (someday), while still wanting to use every bit of it, on hot days with the AC running, then it would make sense that I need to upgrade the radiator/fan/fan clutch right? My searches show a lot of posts about overheating, but not many about upgrading. From my searches, the stock 40 series radiator is about 19x17" (329 sq in), some vehicles with the 1HZ have a 22x21" (462 sq in) radiator, and I imagine a boosted 3.4 L IDI isn't too far behind a NA 4.2 IDI as far as cooling needs go.

Consider upgrading your radiator to provide better cooling. The larger surface area of the 1HZ radiator you mentioned might be a good choice, as it can help dissipate heat more effectively. Also, look into radiators designed for performance applications, as they are built to handle increased heat loads. Upgrading your fan to a high-performance or electric fan can significantly improve airflow. Electric fans are adjustable and can help maintain optimal engine temperatures in various conditions.

 

[rick_d]

Hulsty is correct on a radiator upgrade.

I also must add that you take a look at the oil cooler system (open it up, and clean it). Many oil coolers I have looked into are full of grunt especially engines from JDM imports.

Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating - https://www.evanscoolant.com/, is a good coolant solution if you purge all the water from system.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81BL295agrL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Mercedes blue is also a great choice, just get it from the dealer and should be $26 a bottle uncut.

 

[bj70bc]

Consider upgrading your radiator to provide better cooling. The larger surface area of the 1HZ radiator you mentioned might be a good choice, as it can help dissipate heat more effectively. Also, look into radiators designed for performance applications, as they are built to handle increased heat loads. Upgrading your fan to a high-performance or electric fan can significantly improve airflow. Electric fans are adjustable and can help maintain optimal engine temperatures in various conditions.

electric fans are the cause of most overheating issues ive seen, they flow more at idle but at speed the fan clutch system outperforms them by quite a bit.
Make sure the rad isnt plugged first.
Then upgrade your fan clutch ( or the fluid in it ) if you need more cooling after. <---Best thing to do

 

[dare]

I have a BJ73 so a bit of a different case.

I fitted a HDJ79 raditator which is 120mm taller than the original 3B radiator, it bolts in but the shroud needs extending and a custom bottom hose. At first I had one of the eBay welded aluminium ones but that failed after 6 months so I fitted a 4 core copper brass which has been fine for the last 7 or so years. I fitted a 2H fan hub, I don't know if this was has more lockup but my old hub was free spinning hot and a 2H one was a lot cheaper than a 3B one.

I'm not turbo but it runs at 82c all the time, even in the dunes on a hot day. I have the fuel turned up a bit, it can get to 750c egts pretty easily.

When I got the car it would overheat at the mention of an incline or when the sun came out from behind the clouds.

 

[Dougal]

electric fans are the cause of most overheating issues ive seen, they flow more at idle but at speed the fan clutch system outperforms them by quite a bit.
Make sure the rad isnt plugged first.
Then upgrade your fan clutch ( or the fluid in it ) if you need more cooling after. <---Best thing to do

Most electric fans don't use a shroud which makes them into a massive downgrade.

Fan shrouds are needed to draw air over the whole radiator and to prevent recirculation. Without them fans are almost useless.