Hi all -
Put new brake pads, rotors, e-brake shoes, hoses on the rear of my 2000 LC100. I'm a knowledgeable home wrench. I built up the whole truck with my own hands, restored cars, pulled/installed engines, etc.. So what I am saying is .. I do my own work. I'm meticulous, patient, and I don't cut corners.
I followed the FSM, and double checked my work. I did one side at a time, so I had the other side to use as a reference.
I'm having a problem though, getting the adjustment of the e-brake to go as per the FSM.
Following the FSM, I unhooked the e-brake cable from the wheel bellcranks, pulled the return springs, and expanded the e-brake shoes until they locked the brake disk. At this point, both disks were locked in place. I then contracted the shoes 8 'clicks' on the adjuster, as per the FSM (8 seems like a lot? But the FSM says 8!), reattached the cables, and installed new return springs.
So my problem is - If the bellcranks are parallel to the rotor backing plate, as per the FSM, there is WAY too much slack in the e-brake cable. The e-brake shoes will not engage with that much slack. The e-brake worked before, but would not hold the car. The old shoes were probably original, and trashed, with very little lining left.
I had to take more than an inch out of the handbrake cable turnbuckle to get the e-brake shoes to (mostly) lock the rear disks. Right now, the bellcrank adjusting bolt isn't long enough to get anywhere near the backing plate, and it'd not be even (as in the attached graphic) if it was long enough
Anyone have any ideas? It worked before I put the new shoes on, I've double-checked my work... But I am at a loss on this one.
Thanks!
Mark
Orlando, FL
Put new brake pads, rotors, e-brake shoes, hoses on the rear of my 2000 LC100. I'm a knowledgeable home wrench. I built up the whole truck with my own hands, restored cars, pulled/installed engines, etc.. So what I am saying is .. I do my own work. I'm meticulous, patient, and I don't cut corners.
I followed the FSM, and double checked my work. I did one side at a time, so I had the other side to use as a reference.
I'm having a problem though, getting the adjustment of the e-brake to go as per the FSM.
Following the FSM, I unhooked the e-brake cable from the wheel bellcranks, pulled the return springs, and expanded the e-brake shoes until they locked the brake disk. At this point, both disks were locked in place. I then contracted the shoes 8 'clicks' on the adjuster, as per the FSM (8 seems like a lot? But the FSM says 8!), reattached the cables, and installed new return springs.
So my problem is - If the bellcranks are parallel to the rotor backing plate, as per the FSM, there is WAY too much slack in the e-brake cable. The e-brake shoes will not engage with that much slack. The e-brake worked before, but would not hold the car. The old shoes were probably original, and trashed, with very little lining left.
I had to take more than an inch out of the handbrake cable turnbuckle to get the e-brake shoes to (mostly) lock the rear disks. Right now, the bellcrank adjusting bolt isn't long enough to get anywhere near the backing plate, and it'd not be even (as in the attached graphic) if it was long enough
Anyone have any ideas? It worked before I put the new shoes on, I've double-checked my work... But I am at a loss on this one.
Thanks!
Mark
Orlando, FL