Haff Hawged

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I AM going to finish the minitruck bed, but I agree that some carefull consideration is to be given here...it is useful as a flatbed, I see it also having virtues with a box on back. Might have to do the swap, run the box for a while, and gauge my needs V my wants. I also want to- NEED to- see something closer to what a Toyota 55 series truck might have been. it began as a what if coupled to an I need....we shall see
 
the old fj62 auto trans cross member and mount seem to be a good fit with minor mods for mounting. I will need to modify the actual mount to accept the rear most bolts on the bottom of the trans, and then weld some angle iron to the inside and outside of the frame to bolt the member to. it should be an afternoon job. it will also drop my flange angle to match the pinion angle if I play my cards right. and the buckets might come before the truck bed...I want to enjoy the ride;)


the thing sounds ALOT like my old camaro- and it had 2 mufflers!
 
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for those doing later 4 speed swaps- the short one that is- your late pig front drive shaft should work, especially if it's stock and you're lifted or shackle reversed. at stock height and shackle position, you may be almost an inch long in front. The early 60 series drive shaft has the same bolt pattern as the late pig and is a perfect fit without mods. the stock pig rear shaft may work if you're not lifted much, but the flange is about 1" closer to the front of the truck with this trans and tcase, so if you're lifted, and have an extra 1" of wheelbase like I do, the stock pig shaft is too short to not worry about. the shifter position for the later short 4 speed is about 4" OC back and about 2" OC to the left/drivers side of rig from the stock opening of the floor shift 3 speed equipt FJ55 trans tunnel cover that is found on 73 vintage and similar drivetrain rigs. If you swap the t case shifter HANDLE for the PIG tcase shifter handle(not the crank arm, but the handle part), you may not need to do any cutting or mods to the boot. The stock 60 series tcase shifter handle will require cutting the rear of the tcase shifter opening and patching the opened up front, this is why I used the PIG shifter handle on the 60 series crank arm of the tcase shifter assembly. either early or late floor shifted tcase PIGS boots and the pigs handle will work even with the 2LO mod done to the bracket of the shifter. the trans shifter will require patching. if you use a 4" hole saw, you should be able to weld the cut out into the recess needing the patch, then notch the patch with the hole saw to retain the uninterrupted circular cut out. I used a thicker piece to make the patch- I used a 3 3/4" hole saw- a 3 7/8 might be just about right, but for a tiny bit of extra meat at the weld, a 4" saw should be about perfect. I was able to tap the thicker material in the patch for one shifter boot screw, then used threadserts for the other three. I used 1/4" cause that's what I had:mad: I think there are some SAE bolts on the bumpers too:rolleyes:, but even the bed had metric threads cut for fasteners:meh: It'll give me something to fix if it ever finishes;) the gearboxen have plenty of room with the factory motor mounts. the long 4 speed or a 5 speed would require a new trans tunnel cover and moving the rear support bow for it back about 3". maybe only 2...
 
I couldn't take looking at them any longer; the buckets got welded to some booty fab brackets:lol: who needs friggin bolts when you got a linkin:hillbilly: the color is off, but the fit is right. they do give a bit more room to back up the seat for the daddy long leggers(that'll never happen) that might get to drive her, and GOBS more room in general. Got 10" between the seats and someplace to attach the shoulder belt receivers to. of course, I'll hafta go back thru and make it all nice, but this is for mock up/testing purposes. Think a nice set of drawers that are also the seat mound are in order. then a center console can take up ALL the space between the seats and go all the way down. Keep the back as a full width deep well with a flip down or open locking lid for the long tools;) then I can skip the half doors and just go open. oh, I also mounted the old cobra cb under the dash. Just gotta mount the antenna and wire it up. tomorrow, she goes back to work:o
 
well, we wnt to work yesterday. got about 90 miles on her so far. no leaks, no scary noises or vibrations. she sounds mean, but only a tad more power. Might need to set timing at 10. 7 is alright, but feels lacking. valves will need another adjust before the 500 mile re torque/ oil change, but all seems well. Need to get a later model clutch cover, and finish the new bucket seat mounts. Between the repositioned floor shifter and the seats, it feels SPORTY:lol:
 
delta told me to run it at 750rpm idle and keep the timing below 12 at idle, and to check that the advancer is working to give me some more top end. also told me 15" hg is normal at my elevation for the KC260. said if nothing else worked, to bring lash down to 012 and it would increase duration a bit at top but take a bit off the bottom. Their in between grind is going to net less top and less bottom than this one. There is more oomph in the bottom to lower mid range, but the top seems somewhat flat still. Rebuilt the carb today and re-went thru all the vacuum lines and found no leaks or problems. there are NO intake leaks. the thing sounds like a friggin dragster but drops out before I want it to. seems like there was more top in the old motor. I might have to go back to a stock grind camshaft, but I'll give it a few more miles to break-in first. I can't imagine that larger exhaust valves would rob the top:hhmm:
 
PabloCruise said:
No, I wouldn't think so. If anything a larger valve would help when airflow picks up?
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yeah, that's what I'm thinking. I drove her to the big city tonite and she does beautifully on everything but the big hills. there's more room there than the mountain road had led me to believe. I know there's more top end in this thing too, but I can't bring myself to pull up over 3200 revs before the re-torque/ oil change coming up on saturday, if I keep on hammering the road with her. maybe sunday I'll brave the 4K range:eek::bounce:
 
Shouldn't you have all the torque in by @3200 rpm's, at least for a Landcruiser. Like Pablo, I was always taught to just drive them normal, like around town, for the break in.

Good Luck with it on Sunday. I don't want to hear about any :whoops:!
 
machinist told me to run it at 2K for 20 minutes and then just drive it normal till 500, change the oil, torque the head adjust the valve and then run any oil. around these parts, normal is up/down hills 45-65 MPH and in every gear:meh: there's something hiding up there I think...
 
PabloCruise said:
Trust your instincts!

Do you have the carb working correctly?
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the million dollar question, huh? dunno...think it's close, but no cigar just yet. I think the secondary may not be opening, so...I guess that's next on the list...I wanted a THC carb and diz but funding got tight right about the time I got the motor back:confused:
 
got somethin coool in the mail today:bounce::bounce:
 
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