H55F Disassembly with home made SST (2 Viewers)

[rover67]

I was after the needle bearings at first because I didn't think I was gonna take the whole thing apart.... I have since realized the main shaft and countershaft both need to come out to get to the third gear syncro which is what I am after...

When I started using the puller on the center bearing it was juts pushing the mainshaft out the center of it. I looked at it yesterday and it'll be easy to support the front of the mainshaft to keep it from moving with a price of wood or something like you suggested. That should let the pulled work on the bearing itself and pull it out.. Hopefully it'll be easy

I'll check out those threads you suggested, I searched but I didn't find much on tranny rebuilds on here. Thanks for suggesting them!!

Hi Mike,

Nice job on the pullers. Inspired to make some now. Looked at a puller set which picks up in the ball race, does many different size bearings. the cost is pretty high for casual use. $800 Don't know why you have to support the front of the main shaft when pulling the back bearing? I always just stand the trans on it's end and let the main shaft hang down and gravity seems to keep it in line. A couple of pieces of wood help as well. Why worry about the 17 rollers when you are taking the whole trans apart? They are in the bottom of the case and you will find them when everything is nearly out anyway. It would be important of you where just changing the front input bearing.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/324980-help-4-speed-trouble-shooting.html see post 15
Nice job on the pullers, they make a difficult job a lot easier. If you search H55f you will find a post about pulling the bearings the outback style. Works but not as neat as yours. Also a post regarding the countershaft journal repair on the cheap.

Thanks for posting
jb

 

[slcfj62]

Why don't you add a link to this thread in the Homemade SST thread I started awhile ago. It would be a great addition.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/372337-home-made-sst-thread.html

 

[orangefj45]

Thank you.. i have a dead H55 on the shelf i need to work on and determine if the output shaft matches an output on a long h42.. This shows me how to take it apart..

the main shaft on the h42 does not have the provision for the 5th gear. completely different!

hth

georg

 

[orangefj45]

solid work marco! where there's a will, there's a way! in this case, the marco-way!

 

[rover67]

So this morning I got the rest of it apart.. it went really quickly.

I simply supported the front of the main shaft with a wrench and the puller made quick work of the bearing. They seem to be a lighter press in the case than they are on all the shafts...

 

[rover67]

Once the bearings were all out, the main shaft simply lifts out of the case.. and after that the countershaft (or layshaft as I have been calling it) lifts out also. I left the reverse gear in there since it looks fine. no need for me to pull it out.

 

[rover67]

Once the main shaft was ont eh bench, all that was left was the last circlip in the front to remove, and getting the syncro hub off. I supported the shaft by the gear and used a brass drift to drive the shaft through the syncro hub. It was pretty easy... just be careful not to let the mainshaft drop to the floor!

 

[rover67]

Once those bit were off I finally had access to my 3rd gear syncro.

On Friday I ordered all the parts from my local dealer (thanks Boulder Toyota!!).

I ended up getting a 4th gear syncro, 3rd gear syncro, and the input shaft seal. Everything else I was betting on looking good and it did.

The reason I am changing out the 3rd gear syncro is because when this tranny shipped to me it was stuck in 3rd. the syncro was so jammed on the 3rd gear cone I had to use a flat blade screwdriver to pop it loose. It looked fine so I ran it. It ended up that it always kinda ground going into 3rd so I vowed to pull it apart when I did the clutch. Now was that time. The syncro looked fine and even measured out OK, but didn't grab as well as the others in the tranny so I am just throwing a new one it. 4th gear is right there and the syncro was cheap ($42) so I am doing it also.

Anyways, All the bearings look brand new as do the 1st and 2nd gear syncros. The Gear clearances measured out per the FSM, as did the 2nd and 1st gear syncro clearances.

Putting it back together should be pretty easy, I am hoping!!

Before I go too much farther I want to stress that thsi is not a step by step guid.. there are lots of things I skipped like measuring clearances on the syncros and gears. The FSM explains this well and you should have one if you are doing this anyways. So far, with the right pullers, it has not been too tough.

 

[rover67]

solid work marco! where there's a will, there's a way! in this case, the marco-way!

Thanks dude!

 

[rover67]

Well, I put it all together last night and ended up with one extra part

So I got the opportunity to pull the tranny apart again. A side benefit was I was able to validate that the pullers worked great on the second go around... and the longer jaws on the bearing puller allowed me to pull all the bearings with just one tool. Teardown was fast the second time, and putting it back together went really fast. I started teardown at 8:30 and had it mostly built by 11 last night. Ate some pizza and went back outside to throw the top cover on it.

All I can say is follow the FSM. It shows each step and if you follow it you won't miss anything. I got in a hurry and thought I knew all the little bits. Clearly I didn't. I am going to try and post up all the assembly steps here to try and cover it all with a few gotchas I found along the way. All in all it is a simply tranny to assembly using a hammer and a brass drift, but you'll need to follow the steps in the FSM.

included is a picture of the part I left out. When I saw it I had already put 5th gear on. I had to look in the FSM to see where it went, and after looking through the procedure twice I figured it out. I knew the tranny had several of these pins holding washers from spinning on the shafts and I was keeping them together with the gears as I was pulling it apart, but I missed this ball since it didn't look like one of the pins. I thought it was the detent for 5th gear, and when I went to put the detent for 5th in I noticed I had two balls (wait, that's a good thing right?)

Anyways here ya go!

 

[rover67]

Here is a picture of the main shaft. 2nd gear roller bearing installed and lubed, Ball is in it's proper place, sliding on 2nd gear. Make sure the orientation of 2nd is right (syncro cone toward the back of the tranny) or else you'll find out later that you put it on backwards.

Damn little ball.

Once 2nd gear is slid on, the bushing for 3rd slides on. you can still see the little ball in the picture.. It keeps that bushing from spinning on the shaft.

Then 3rd gear slides on. lube up the bushing with gear oil.

 

[rover67]

Next is the 3rd gear syncro ring. This was one of my replacement parts.

Next is the syncro hub. Put the little spring wire in it before hammering it into position on the shaft. Also pay attention to orientation. The FSM shows how it goes, but basically the recessed face goes towards the front of the tranny.

Once the syncro hub is hammered home, install the circlip.

 

[rover67]

After installing circlips, I like to make sure they are seated by bumping them with a screwdriver and a hammer. Just to make sure they are in the bottom of the groove. I also like to make sure that the shaft is tight against the circlip by bumping it up against it. That's what I am doing in the next few shots.

shop doggies watching.

 

[CardinalFJ60]

wanna compare?

If you get it all back together by tomorrow you can do a side by side comparison and drive my 60. I know we talked about it, but I bet we're not the only people to say, "well, the H55f, doesn't shift quite as nice like my 4speed!". I feel like mine wants to "stumble" or get coerced into 3rd, esp. when cold. but never really quite a grind. I wonder if there's a commonality on these transmissions.(?)

 

[rover67]

After making sure the circlip is in nice, put in the second spring into the syncro hub. Next put in the shifting keyes and hold them in place while sliding the hub sleeve over it all. It clicks into place. Make sure the springs engage the shifting keys as outlined in the FSM and are not lined up with one another. Also, the hub sleeve has divots in it to help with visualizing alignment with the shifting keys.

orientation of the hub sleeve is important, the side with the smaller diameter/groove goes toward the front.

First pic is the hub sleeve sliding on, yo ucan see the spring is not aligned well with the shifting key. in the second picture I am pushing the spring around into alignment. the back spring that is now kind of hidden can be seen under the shifting keys, make sure it is aligned properly as well.

 

[rover67]

next shots, sliding on the 1st/2nd syncro assembly. I didn't take this thing apart.

Then the roller bearing for 1st gear.

Then 1st gear.

 

[rover67]

Behind 1st gear goes another locating pin, and washer. don't forget it.

give 1st gear a shot of gear oil while you're there.

 

[rover67]

Now it can start to go together....

lower the counter shaft into the case..

then lower the main shaft into the case. you HAVE TO BE CAREFUL to not let it fall apart. specifically that washer that goes behind 1st and the associated pin. After you lower the mainshaft into position you can install the rear bearing. I hammered it in part of the way, then installed the circlip, then hammered it in the rest of the way.

 

[rover67]

here is the rear bearing in, and all of the associated bits on the output shaft. I used the nut on the output shaft to pull it through that rear bearing. again BE CAREFUL that the washer behind 1st doesn't move and the pin doesn't fall out.

next is the input shaft. Grease up the 17 roller bearings and stuff them in there. Slide on the 4th gear syncro.

Make double sure the springs in the sleeve are in place properly! here are a few shots showing that again. You can also see the orientation of the syncro hub and sleeve in this FSM shot.

 

[rover67]

Then hammer in the input shaft. I didn't take apart the input shaft assembly so it was ready to go.

After the input shaft goes in make sure everything spins nicely.

Next install the rear counter shaft bearing... it bumps in with a hammer also with the circlip in place.

Once the rear counter shaft bearing is in place, you can install the front. I hammered in the outer part with the circlip first, then stuck a socket on the inner part and bumped it home. I had a helper hold the back of the counter shaft while driving the inner portion of the front bearing in.