GX470 Air Injection failure (2 Viewers)

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DeeRex

DeeRex

Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Threads
24
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538
Location
Raleigh, NC
My wife started her GX470 yesterday morning and got this big whirring sound. Didn’t do it again until she left the office f R lunch. Was unable to repeat until this morning. I recorded it but was able to find an identical issue:
Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important! - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

If you want to hear ours just let me know and I can post up. But the link above includes a google docs link with the exact audio track.
Before I start digging in and trying to plan how to handle this, does anyone have any experience, insight, tips to start me out. The $4k repair estimate in the linked post has the wife in freakout mode, so really hoping to avoid that.
Thanks!
-Derek
 
I believe theres a bypass kit available to "resolve" that problem. I think its about 1/10th the cost. There was somene selling a kit sometime in the last 5 months or so on CL in the Greensboro area.
 
Ordered bypass! Expected delivery 26-Feb. I’ll post updates next week.
Thanks again guys!
 
This one off eBay
#seemslegit
 
Emma's threw the code a few times and we cleared them. When it warmed up last year, the noise went away. Noise came back this winter, but the codes never popped back up for whatever reason. We're running it like it is for now. Guess I'll eventually have to put that bypass on.

Now we have a PS leak and a water neck leak that need to be fixed :(
 
Yeah it only does it on cold starts. When she’s driven in the last hour it doesn’t do it.
@little_joe - that’s not the one I bought. The one you linked has a couple of additional wires it seems. Hate the link didn’t work. I sent it to my wife and she could see it but eBay links tend to be flaky. I’ve attached a screen cap of it here.
It was linked from another post and has good reviews. Can you let me know your thoughts on it vs the Hewitt-Tech?
-Derek

D5729818-C910-44CF-9590-3C95A63D342A.jpeg
 
That one looks the same as Hewitt, minus the starter relay wire. Found it on ebay and the seller doesn't make much info known. Please report back, this seems like a valid, good option.
 
Will do!
 
Installed the bypass wiring this weekend. And everything runny much better so far.
I wasn’t able to remove the wheel but don’t think I need to install the block off plates since it hadn’t gone into limp mode.
I’m holding onto the two plates, though, just in case.
I cleared the stored code and drove it around. And as of this evening, no blower fan and no codes.
This module delays the AIP for 10-12 secones (depending on which documentation you read).
The Hewitt appears to not have this parameter. By connecting to the starter relay, the AIP is *always* delayed.
The Rutech unit also plugs directly into the existing harness, so no splicing.
There’s a pretty substantial cost difference between the Rutech and Hewitt and those two items appear to be the only variables.
So far I’m pleased and am good saving $150.

Any questions, let me know.
-Derek
 
Thanks for the followup, @DeeRex ! Is the timer on the Rutech programmable, or does it just simply default to that 10-12 secs?

Silly question, but do you think the standard inspection station attendant would notice this emission bypass device? That was one thing w/ the Hewitt that bothered me (the starter relay wire) - seems to be a flag to take a closer look.
 
It’s a static setting from Rutech.

As for how noticeable- I don’t think any of it is noticeable if you still have the engine bay covers. If you don’t, then you could route everything in a way to appear OEM but I don’t think you have much of a problem. I’ll take a pic tomorrow evening and post. Slipped my mind yesterday.
 
Hey @DeeRex wanted to follow up and see how things are with the RuTech, and wondering if you installed the block off plates?

I think I am going to do this as a preventive measure, I am getting the whirring at start off and on these days, and it's cheap/simple/proven enough to just go ahead and avoid any issues.
 
Everything is great so far! Did have one day that my wife turned the car on (but didn’t start immediately), then started after a bit. This caused the fan to engage and lights were thrown. I confirmed all good, cleared codes and not a single episode since.
We did not worry about the block off plates. From what I have read, the plates are only required if your vehicle went into “limp mode”. Since we have not experienced any loss of power, I believe the valve failed in a closed state, so no need for the plates.
That being said, there are posts all over different forums where people are putting the bypass in as preventative. I say do it.
If you don’t need the block off plates, there is a forum with a guy making the bypass wiring for <$70 (even cheaper I believe). The cost of all the other kits really seems to be the block offs. I’ll see if I can find that thread in my history.
 
Another follow up update --
Since the weather has turned "Angry Summer" we have had the P011B code thrown every couple of days. I go in, clear it, and it works fine till one or two days later.
I had this pop up a few weeks back right after one of our first really hot days and I thought it was because the ignition key was left in.
Come to find out, this is a result of us having an '08 and the bypass not addressing the changes Toyota/Lexus made from '07.

Quote from: 06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass
hewitttech said:
The P011B is a temperature correlation code that came up on the 2008 and later years when we first started to see those systems fail and our older units. This issue has been resolved with our V50 and newer units which are specific to the 08 and newer which is after they changed how that coorelation test was performed.
Click to expand...

I'm reaching out to SlyFox75 on the T4R forum to confirm his works well with the '08s. If so, I'll have an '07 and earlier bypass wiring available for anyone looking to get ahead of the pump failure that is sure to come.
Will post update when I have it.
-Derek
 
DeeRex said:
Another follow up update --
Since the weather has turned "Angry Summer" we have had the P011B code thrown every couple of days. I go in, clear it, and it works fine till one or two days later.
I had this pop up a few weeks back right after one of our first really hot days and I thought it was because the ignition key was left in.
Come to find out, this is a result of us having an '08 and the bypass not addressing the changes Toyota/Lexus made from '07.

Quote from: 06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass


I'm reaching out to SlyFox75 on the T4R forum to confirm his works well with the '08s. If so, I'll have an '07 and earlier bypass wiring available for anyone looking to get ahead of the pump failure that is sure to come.
Will post update when I have it.
-Derek
Click to expand...

Wow, that kinda sucks, didn't realize '08's had a change in this area.

If you do decide to get rid of the RuTech, dibs. :)
 
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