GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (8 Viewers)

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Wait, Temp also? My 23 only shows pressure.
I have the OBDLink MX+ dongle, running OBDLink app on an old Android phone I had laying around. I usually have the other screen that shows engine and trans temps. I run this screen when I'm on a trail and have aired down to 10 or 12 psi to keep an I on my tires and temp.
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Did some snow wheeling this weekend. I eventually figured out that the only way to keep traction control from ruining everything is basically having all the toys turned on: 4low, center diff locked, manual gear selection, MTS set to mud/sand. Having close to 40k miles on my tires wasn't doing me any favors in the deep stuff but it's annoying to use the Trac Off button to then find out halfway up the hill that button is a lie.
 
Did some snow wheeling this weekend. I eventually figured out that the only way to keep traction control from ruining everything is basically having all the toys turned on: 4low, center diff locked, manual gear selection, MTS set to mud/sand. Having close to 40k miles on my tires wasn't doing me any favors in the deep stuff but it's annoying to use the Trac Off button to then find out halfway up the hill that button is a lie.
VSC is still very much alive and will kill throttle with everything off. This resulted in my GX getting quick stuck in a mudhole when it was still stock-ish and in the snow as well. However, you'll likely find that the systems perform drastically better when the tires are aired down (at least they do on my 470).

Still, it may be worth the effort to build a full nanny-off button. On my 470 I built one by tapping in to the wire harness leading to the fluid level sensor on the brake master cylinder and using a 5-pin relay to disconnect one of the wires at the push of a button. I am not sure if it will also work on a 460. You can check by pulling that two-wire plug on the front of the MC/booster assumebly and seeing if the dash lights up like a Christmas tree and kills those systems.
 
Alrighty back after a little work forced hiatus.

I got a persistent "thumping" at the foot well that is not cyclical, totally random, frequent, but reduces as speed increases. Wheels turned or not doesn't matter.

Heres the list of work thats been done with it present:

UCAs (TC) rebuilt, torqued, greased and lubed.

Wheel bearings

lower ball joints.

All of these parts needed replacement, but, haven't resolved the issue.

The inner and outer tie rods have been inspected, All of them are in good shape.

Rack is tight driving, and while it has a bit of movement (less than an 1/8th in either direction) in the bushings the bushings don't look bad at all, actually since the truck has had the front end gone through it drives better than it ever has.

The truck has been aligned, aligns well, did check the techs work, and found hand tight cam bolts (JFC) so they ere torqued on the ground as prescribed.

Everything is torqued witness marked and has been checked since their replacement.

There is no transmission of noise or vibration through the pedals, wheel or shifter, just at the foot well of the passenger side.

Splash guards have been removed.

The noise can be kind of replicated with the truck suspension is cycled up and down in a rapid manner. (jumping on the slider) and can be felt on every single suspension part, a stethoscope offered no insights other than more granular noise understanding of a click on the down cycle and the up cycle.

This leaves me with a few items that I want to work through:

ACH/kdss bushings

Body mount

Blown shock (ARB with about 30k on them)

Maybe a rack, (no blow by, no fluid consumption)

Thoughts, experiences, mansplaining, memes?
 
Alrighty back after a little work forced hiatus.

I got a persistent "thumping" at the foot well that is not cyclical, totally random, frequent, but reduces as speed increases. Wheels turned or not doesn't matter.

Heres the list of work thats been done with it present:

UCAs (TC) rebuilt, torqued, greased and lubed.

Wheel bearings

lower ball joints.

All of these parts needed replacement, but, haven't resolved the issue.

The inner and outer tie rods have been inspected, All of them are in good shape.

Rack is tight driving, and while it has a bit of movement (less than an 1/8th in either direction) in the bushings the bushings don't look bad at all, actually since the truck has had the front end gone through it drives better than it ever has.

The truck has been aligned, aligns well, did check the techs work, and found hand tight cam bolts (JFC) so they ere torqued on the ground as prescribed.

Everything is torqued witness marked and has been checked since their replacement.

There is no transmission of noise or vibration through the pedals, wheel or shifter, just at the foot well of the passenger side.

Splash guards have been removed.

The noise can be kind of replicated with the truck suspension is cycled up and down in a rapid manner. (jumping on the slider) and can be felt on every single suspension part, a stethoscope offered no insights other than more granular noise understanding of a click on the down cycle and the up cycle.

This leaves me with a few items that I want to work through:

ACH/kdss bushings

Body mount

Blown shock (ARB with about 30k on them)

Maybe a rack, (no blow by, no fluid consumption)

Thoughts, experiences, mansplaining, memes?
Does it happen when hitting bumps or cracks in the road?
Nothing loose in the engine bay? Is the battery properly secured?
 
Does it happen when hitting bumps or cracks in the road?
Nothing loose in the engine bay? Is the battery properly secure
Yes battery is secure.

Light low speed (low shock velocity) compression and rebound seem to cause it.
 
I had a similar issue a couple years ago after an early off road trip with the GX. IIRC it was due to damaged lower control arm bushings, but may have been a ball joint. Both LCAs were replaced under Carmax warranty and have had no issues since.
 
I had a similar issue a couple years ago after an early off road trip with the GX. IIRC it was due to damaged lower control arm bushings, but may have been a ball joint. Both LCAs were replaced under Carmax warranty and have had no issues since.
The lower ball joints were defiantly smoked. All of the LCA bushings look to be in good shape without a ton of cracking, and were inspected when I had to do cam tabs.

I might consider popping them out. Maybe its time to just do some TC lowers.
 
I would also have someone take a look at the KDSS bushings while the suspension is cycling. Apparently they can not only degrade, but shift left/right and sometimes the ram itself can contact things.
 
I would also have someone take a look at the KDSS bushings while the suspension is cycling. Apparently they can not only degrade, but shift left/right and sometimes the ram itself can contact things.
I checked the ram clearance, and you are right tons of right left play in the system. It only makes the pop once wen the suspension cycles less than half an inch. but the bushings are a little suspect. Should have done them a while ago. oh well.
 
Just a heads up, because of how much current they draw, whenever I use my winch, I ALWAYS am running my engine, even if for a quick pull.
Even if you run the truck you need more amperage and capacity in the battery for the winch to run properly. Some of the big ones hit 400A spikes under load. Then the capacity to run it extended periods. Running the engine is good (best). Running an engine with a HO alternator into two AGM batteries that have a large CCA and deep Ah is better.
 
Even if you run the truck you need more amperage and capacity in the battery for the winch to run properly. Some of the big ones hit 400A spikes under load. Then the capacity to run it extended periods. Running the engine is good (best). Running an engine with a HO alternator into two AGM batteries that have a large CCA and deep Ah is better.
Yep, I've installed a 240 amp alternator and dual AGM's.
 
Apparently this is a cheaper PC without buttons according to Banks


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I've used a PC for probably 5 years without issue but the Banks model has some nice features.
 
No it’s not satire, but it is funny.
Ok. I'm just sick and tired of people complaining about throttle controllers, especially for clicks.
 

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