For $550 you can almost buy a single RF945 ARB drawer and actually have storage and a fridge slide. Goose gear makes nice stuff but the prices are way too high for a piece of CNC routered wood covered in bed liner.
GX460 3rd row removal
- Thread starter patrickfinley
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GreenbowCounty
James
I've definitely arrived at that conclusion about GG; great equipment but not lining up with my cost expectations. I plan to put down some Dynamat in the near future and muck up a solid base and storage system. I have an 80L National Luna (too damn big for my needs) that I will be loading up once complete.
r2m
Richard
An idea I've been playing with for some time is using an aluminum pallet (Heavy Duty Aluminum Pallets at Global Industrial or some like vendor). You'll have to cut it to be a little shorter, but I believe the width should be right with the rear width of our rigs. Then get some drawer slides and make drawers for between where the fork lift tangs go and another slide on top, towards one side or another for your fridge. It will be a much lighter platform than all those wood options and the cost of the pallet is only about $200.00. Those pallets are also really strong and can handle a lot of weight.
GreenbowCounty
James
You make a great point; hadn't thought of aluminum. The one thing I am looking for also though is minimal height from the floor to the top of the platform. The 80L is huge (21" tall by 33" long); I'm 5'10" and as tall as the fridge is, short of standing on a step of some kind, I'm afraid I'd struggle to get items out. Especially with the truck already lifted, etc. I'm going to consider aluminum still though; thankfully I've got time and the idea makes total sense! Thank you!
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r2m
Richard
Building upon the above idea, you could also cut the slats off one half of the pallet with will bring it down to about 1" off the deck. The 1" being the height of thickness of the aluminum slats. Then you can build your fridge tray on that and use the other half of the pallet for drawers.
We have two fridges:
The Whynter is also a beast, so for short trips we usually use the small one.
My wife is only 5'-1" so she has to stand on the rear bumper to get things out the big one. I'm 6'-0" so I'm okay with just lifting the lid and seeing what's in there.
But for her, I keep in my rig a simple folding step stool that works really well for her.
It takes up hardly any space at all!
Unless you plan on moving the 2nd row seats forward all the way I don't think there fridge is going to fit length wise. The backs of the 2nd row tilt rearward so measuring at the deck will be deceiving.
You'll need to be about 45mm off the deck to make the platform level with the floor brace that is at the front edge of the area and also to clear the keyless antenna and wiring that is on the floor.
Due to resonation in the rear area transmitted by the bolts to the floor you'll probably want to use composite or wood rather than steel or aluminum to prevent the noise transmission.
You'll need to be about 45mm off the deck to make the platform level with the floor brace that is at the front edge of the area and also to clear the keyless antenna and wiring that is on the floor.
Due to resonation in the rear area transmitted by the bolts to the floor you'll probably want to use composite or wood rather than steel or aluminum to prevent the noise transmission.
I'll be discussing a drawer/platform build with Truck Vault tomorrow. My ideas, there execution.
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r2m
Richard
Keep us posted on how this comes out!
Pictures are worth a thousand words or posts!!
Pictures are worth a thousand words or posts!!
also following this one...
I loved my old drawer system in the 470 and will definitely "need" one in the new 460. I had the drawers all set up with recovery gear, tools, various repair kits, epoxy, gloves, hitches, and all kinds of emergency items. I also used the area on the sides to hold an extra bottle of oil, paper towels, fire extinguisher and a couple of small backpacking folding chairs. My only adds would be to try and match the height of the 2nd row seats when folded and have some tie down points.
I loved having the drawers and really miss them now (actually to the point where I whine about it regularly every time I open the back and crap is rolling around). I also loved being able to load up all kinds of stuff (lumber, etc), at home depot with the seats folded. I thought about building a vertical wall attached to the drawers on the drivers side for storage of first aid kit/extinguisher etc (similar to the mole panels I see). The other thing to consider is what you do with the front of the box...right behind the second row seats. I had just enough space to store a long item or two hidden behind the second row (think radio antennas, fly rods or other long shaped sporting goods). Might be a way to make a good hidden storage area.
Thanks for posting a good thread and I will post pictures when I get to that project.
I loved my old drawer system in the 470 and will definitely "need" one in the new 460. I had the drawers all set up with recovery gear, tools, various repair kits, epoxy, gloves, hitches, and all kinds of emergency items. I also used the area on the sides to hold an extra bottle of oil, paper towels, fire extinguisher and a couple of small backpacking folding chairs. My only adds would be to try and match the height of the 2nd row seats when folded and have some tie down points.
I loved having the drawers and really miss them now (actually to the point where I whine about it regularly every time I open the back and crap is rolling around). I also loved being able to load up all kinds of stuff (lumber, etc), at home depot with the seats folded. I thought about building a vertical wall attached to the drawers on the drivers side for storage of first aid kit/extinguisher etc (similar to the mole panels I see). The other thing to consider is what you do with the front of the box...right behind the second row seats. I had just enough space to store a long item or two hidden behind the second row (think radio antennas, fly rods or other long shaped sporting goods). Might be a way to make a good hidden storage area.
Thanks for posting a good thread and I will post pictures when I get to that project.
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I love my ARB drawers. Doesn't matter if they're loaded or empty they don't make a sound and the roller top on the RF945 is so much cleaner than having to run a separate fridge slide.
HI there, did you use any sound deadening material under your build? Also did you secure the ribs to anything? or just use them as spacers? It looks great - lots of flexibility in how its used...and very light weight.
mattds - the wooden ribs are attached to underside of deck. I didn't use sound deadening - but might be additional benefit. Headed out on first backcountry trip with the truck next week - so we'll see how it works in the field. Still working on best spare tire storage solution - heading on this trip with it lashed down with rachet strap primary, and secondary straps.
I just put in a hardwood (i had left over eng oak floor) with a similar ribbed design. For now mine is just floating...ill drive around with it for a few days and see if there are any issues.
Good luck with the spare. If you're only off road could you strap it to your roof? (though there any many reasons that isnt ideal either). On my jeep i actualy keep the spare in the back and have one of those hitch mounted shelves that i keep the cooler and packs on...
Pls do post pictures of the "hardwood floor" in back of your lexus... The four bolts of the original third row seating assembly make a solid mounting point.
This trip will definitely be a "shake down" for how I seek to develop next steps for storage... with an RTT half the roof rack is filled. With traction boards & shovel (dirty) and extra gas (stinky) on the roof - I'm still working on optimal solution with weight and access in mind.
This trip will definitely be a "shake down" for how I seek to develop next steps for storage... with an RTT half the roof rack is filled. With traction boards & shovel (dirty) and extra gas (stinky) on the roof - I'm still working on optimal solution with weight and access in mind.
r2m
Richard
Are you taking into consideration to keep the ability to recline the middle seats? Even a little?
Not talking about tilting forward, but reclining for passengers.
Not talking about tilting forward, but reclining for passengers.
Hey...
So far i have the hardwood down (dont have pics yet) and i'm debating how to finish the edges (front and rear). If i really want to make it look nice i'll have to remove it, cut it back about 4" and then put a piece of oak perpendicular to the existing door and stain it to match. Or i might just put some sort of bullnose or L shaped metal edge...
I can say that with the two layers of ribs/spacing and the 3/4" eng hardwood the noise is back to stock levels (i felt there was a slight increase in road noise with the 3rd row removed - not much but some.
Updated: I used a stair edge on the front and back and then just pieces of the same hardwood on the sides (which also gave me 2 more cubbies on each side). This allows for stock functionality for the 2nd row.
I do appreciate the deeper cargo space and the versatility it offers. I'm also down at least 250lbs with the removal of the 3rd row, spare and bits and pieces of other things and it helps to make the truck a little quicker....but I've had to lower my rear tire pressure when empty.
So far i have the hardwood down (dont have pics yet) and i'm debating how to finish the edges (front and rear). If i really want to make it look nice i'll have to remove it, cut it back about 4" and then put a piece of oak perpendicular to the existing door and stain it to match. Or i might just put some sort of bullnose or L shaped metal edge...
I can say that with the two layers of ribs/spacing and the 3/4" eng hardwood the noise is back to stock levels (i felt there was a slight increase in road noise with the 3rd row removed - not much but some.
Updated: I used a stair edge on the front and back and then just pieces of the same hardwood on the sides (which also gave me 2 more cubbies on each side). This allows for stock functionality for the 2nd row.
I do appreciate the deeper cargo space and the versatility it offers. I'm also down at least 250lbs with the removal of the 3rd row, spare and bits and pieces of other things and it helps to make the truck a little quicker....but I've had to lower my rear tire pressure when empty.
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Not to hijack...but wanted to throw this out there as I am going to build a set of drawers for the 460 soon. Just wanting to incorporate some features to solve needs that I actually have experienced and based on my previous drawer system in the 470. When I start, I will post up a new thread, but so far this is my design considerations list to conquer... Maybe this list will help some who are designing their own.
1) approx 8"-9" of drawer height (to match the height of the rear seats folded down)
2) Flat heavy duty carpeted deck surface (for ice chest, dog bed, dump runs, home depot, etc)
3) Tie downs (thinking recessed track with moveable d rings) *need to keep those groceries from spilling
4) Open space on either side of deck from the wheel wells back (approx 6" on left and right side to access Jack, inverter and store extra oil, paper towels, etc). Could use some removeable covers
5) Locking drawers with nice quality hardware (HD drawer slides - soft close)
6) Wood Drawer Fronts with good tough coating, recessed back enough to allow for fold down table on rear door
7) Slide out work surface in one of the drawers
8) Bottle opener?
9) Storage wall part way up left (drivers side) or possibly Molle attachment panel
10) Hidden storage in front of drawers for long items (accessible behind back seats). This worked well for me in the 470
just stuff to consider
1) approx 8"-9" of drawer height (to match the height of the rear seats folded down)
2) Flat heavy duty carpeted deck surface (for ice chest, dog bed, dump runs, home depot, etc)
3) Tie downs (thinking recessed track with moveable d rings) *need to keep those groceries from spilling
4) Open space on either side of deck from the wheel wells back (approx 6" on left and right side to access Jack, inverter and store extra oil, paper towels, etc). Could use some removeable covers
5) Locking drawers with nice quality hardware (HD drawer slides - soft close)
6) Wood Drawer Fronts with good tough coating, recessed back enough to allow for fold down table on rear door
7) Slide out work surface in one of the drawers
8) Bottle opener?
9) Storage wall part way up left (drivers side) or possibly Molle attachment panel
10) Hidden storage in front of drawers for long items (accessible behind back seats). This worked well for me in the 470
just stuff to consider
To provides some feedback after field use, the lightweight approach (custom/diy cargo deck & alu boxes has worked pretty well on two trips). Here is a view of the cargo stack (ice cooler & stove to the right on similar strap arrangement):
If there are any fluent Italian speakers on the board, I welcome corrections to my labels. I'm third generation Italian-American so I took my best shot...
And for those that believe (like me) coffee is the most important meal of the day...
If there are any fluent Italian speakers on the board, I welcome corrections to my labels. I'm third generation Italian-American so I took my best shot...
And for those that believe (like me) coffee is the most important meal of the day...
Here's my rear setup for now.
I'm waffling on the drawers vs raised floor with rifle bags underneath vs just leaving low floor and putting a bag back there.
My writeup for the process www.nomadsgx460.blogspot.com
I'm waffling on the drawers vs raised floor with rifle bags underneath vs just leaving low floor and putting a bag back there.
My writeup for the process www.nomadsgx460.blogspot.com
