Gurgle Sound in Rad/OverFlow (1 Viewer)

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Coolant mixed properly with water and under the correct pressure does have a lower boiling point. The correct pressure is supplied bt a closed system with a good radiator cap. All of the conditions need to be met before it can work correctly. Coolant moving too fast through the system (without a thremostat) will not properly move the heat from the engine to the radiator.
 
Coolant mixed with water has a higher boiling point, not lower. Roughly 18 degrees F higher in an open system, and adding the proper radiator cap to pressurize the system moves this temperature much higher still.
 
Liquid boils at 212 deg F. at atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI) as you increase pressure by say 9 psi the boiling point is raised as well. Your motor is going to run 220 to 260 more than likely depending everything that contributes to heat. Your mechanic is right the frozen fan clutch is not going to kill you it will just be cooling when not needed. I would get a new cap to start with and fix your temp gauge. If it is still overheating you are going to have to find out why. Check for water flow and look for bubbles while running. I would do a combustion check on the coolant to see if gases are getting into it. I have seen radiators that are just running water or coolant plug up to the point that they run just fine at idle and will only cause overheating under a load. Stop leak is the usual culprit but corrosion and rust can do it as well.
 
I will get a new Temp Guage, hoping to find a OEM i dont want a big dial on my dash....and i need to replace the cap on the overflow as its loose and the reason why i loose my H20 over bumps...thanks guys!
 
I should mention it doesn't over heat....and the temp guage if engine gets really warm will move only slightly, same with my fuel guage, it is not working properly as well. I'm worried this is going to be a tough symptom to fix...can I just get a new guage cluster and install?? Rudi do you still have some for sale??
Coolant is also a anti corrosion product. Coolant with distilled water 50/50 is recommended.
Check your thermostat if you have one. It's very common here in the tropics that you have none. Somebody threw it out.
Check your radiator cap for proper functioning. It should open when the pressure is too high and suck the coolant back in from the overflow tank when the engine cools down.
That overflow tank is not OEM but should have at least a tube attached so that the coolant is dumped on the ground and not spitting around in the engine compartment.
If you have been working on your coolant system, you'll likely have an air bubble in the system. This bubble will push more coolant out than necessary. This also causes the sucking sound that you hear when you remove the radiator cap.
Make sure that the nose is higher than the back. Jack it up, drive up the sidewalk, whatever.
Let the engine run and getting at work temperature with the radiator cap off until no more air bubbles appear.
A working gauge will help.
On our BJ's here in Costa Rica we have a "fixed" fan which means it will always turn, unless a PO did a modification or something else is wrong.

Rudi

Oh, and don't believe your mechanic.

Hmmmmm, I think you're right. My bad. I'll remove it from the posting.

Rudi
 
Rudi do you still have some for sale??
Nope, I had it for sale for 4 years. A few months ago I parted it out. Only the housing is left.

The fuel and temp gauge are "connected" together. The fuel gauge provides the working voltage for both gauges.
2 possibilities: 1. The internal VR inside the fuel gauge is defective or 2. The voltage to the cluster is too low. Bad fuse, fuse contacts, barrel connector on the back of the cluster, ........

Rudi
 

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