GSMTR Buildup Has Begun - Finally

[lowtideride]

I run .30 on the 135 hobart. .35 did not weld as well as the thinner stuff. As for the lock tite... I just lock tite the last 3-5 threads and leave the part of the stud that sticks in the furthest lock tite free...Also I run that the same wire for all the sizes you run just slow it down and up the amps.

 

[Sputnik40]

I run .30 on the 135 hobart. .35 did not weld as well as the thinner stuff. As for the lock tite... I just lock tite the last 3-5 threads and leave the part of the stud that sticks in the furthest lock tite free...Also I run that the same wire for all the sizes you run just slow it down and up the amps.

Cool. I ran a few test passes tonight with the .30 and it definitely burned in good with a hot setting and a decent wire speed. Very kool. Most everything fresh ground down and ready to weld Sat. is gonna be a good day. Just locktite on outer threads make sense - I can see that.

Can't wait to get the shock mounts and buy some shocks - this thing is so buggy/springy it's not funny - hope to have some sik articulation.

 

[Eric_FJ40]

Can't wait to get the shock mounts and buy some shocks - this thing is so buggy/springy it's not funny - hope to have some sik articulation.

Funny you should say that...

I drove the Cruiser a mile or two today! And without shocks it is very springy - feels a whole lot different than it used to!

Waterpump is puking - gotta replace that.

Bill: I don't know if you remember or not, but at the 2004 GSMTR I was having to combine my batteries almost every time to start. Today when I started, I only installed one battery in the original manner and left the winch disconnected. I was showing about 12.2 volts at idle and could only get the voltage up to about 12.4 bringing up the RPMs. The alternator has been checked and is good. Does the fact that it does rise - even just a bit - point to the voltage regulator?

Anyone?

I think it's time for a GM internally regulated...

 

[Capt. Jim]

Eric,

THe GM higher amp alternators will serve you better, except that at low RPM's, your voltage will drop down and the alt. won.t be charging. I am running a GM in my rig (albeit with a 350 SBC), and my lights dim and votage drops at every idle situation.

Both your truck and Bill's look kick-a$$!

Keep the pics coming.

 

[FL cruiser]

Eric,
With everything normal, you should be getting a higher voltage reading than 12.4V. More like 13.2 or higher.
I'm not sure how the terminals on the Toyota ext voltage reg are labeled, but all external regulators should have an "F" or field terminal. If you were to take a jumper wire from the pos post of your battery and touch it the the "F" wire at your regulator going into the harness temporarily, you will be exiteing the fields in your alternator with a full 12V causing the alternator to charge at it's max full load capacity. Measure at your battery while you do this. You should see at least 14V. If you don't, your alternator might be weak. If it does go over 14V, you know your alternator is good and your regulator might need to be replaced or tweaked up a little.
Steve

 

[ChuckD]

Sputnik, your welder should say what max amp draw it has and can size circuit (including wire) accordingly. If wire gauge is too small it could limit amps and restrict your welder from laying in with full juice. I have a millermatic 210 and have a 40a (not 50) breaker and used the recommended gauge wire for the distance of run. FWIW, I use the .035 with an argon/co2 shielding gas. ...cleaner than flux core I'm told but never used flux core. I surely got ripped but my 20 foot 'extension cord' was premade, cost $85, and is thick as a garden hose. TGIF!!

 

[Trollhole]

And make sure you have the engine grounded well. You can temp attach a jumper cable from ground on the battery to the outside housing of the alt. If your voltage increases you have a bad ground somewhere. One wire GM is the way to go.

 

[Bret]

I have C02 and Argon as well, I've been told that straight C02 has better penetration but the Argon blend is a nicer weld. I have been using .030 wire for 1/4" stuff and it seems to do OK. BUT I am not qualified to make any real recommendations, I'm learning as I go and just repeating what I've heard or been told...

Your rig is coming along very nicely, keep up the pace and you'll be done in no time!!

I have a couple of welding books if you need reading material. (not for wiping though)

Bret

 

[ChuckD]

Slow but steady... by the time I'm done with this I'll know what I'm doing...

 

[Capt. Jim]

Lookin' good Chuck!

 

[ChuckD]

Thanks Jim! There are a few more joints to grind but here it is almost finished.
Feel like I could bring home a gold medal at the grinding olympics.

 

[Sputnik40]

Chuck - Looks great! Is that 2" tubing. Mine is only 1 3/4" and doesn't look at beefy. Be sure to invest in a decent coat of paint - rattle can just doesn't hold up as well.

Eric - Need some final pics.

Many thanks to Jim for stopping by on Sat. - I was plugging away nicely, but it was great having extra feedback and help moving stuff around - front is almost all welded up (ran out of flux yesterday, and didn't have time to set the gas flow for solid). Also got the garage cleaned out enough to fit the Cruiser in - Hah - nice having a tall entrance.

Should be welded and rolling by mid week - then brakes, shocks and turning stops.

 

[Sputnik40]

Drive side frame horn about done. Boxing pass. side - sucker was hammered from last year. Few more welds tomorrow night and PS and front bumper go back on.

 

[Capt. Jim]

Damn Bill, we will start calling you SPARKY!

I think the hard stuff is done. Looks like I'll be following the leader this year........

 

[Eric_FJ40]

Nice work, Bill.

I flexed the Cruiser out on some rocks this weekend and measured for shocks. I've got them on order. Sunday I drained and filled the tranny and t-case and put the soft top back on.

Tonight I stripped the front axle down and pulled the inners. I ground the martacks out and fitted them back in - the locker seems to keep the shafts from migrating inwards too far. So I put everything back together and have just about 1/8" of end play. I'm much more comfortable with that.

It was good practice for changing a birf. I am comfortable with that process now.

Well - when it rains it pours. The FJ80 started making some rather dubious crunching noises up front today after work. I think I may have had a birf go on me - could have been weakened at Perry or when I heard that rather loud banging noise up front the other day. To top that off, when I got home I noticed gear oil coming out of the front pinion seal. I have not inspected it closely yet - don't know if I have a birf problem or a 3rd member problem or both.

I'm going to focus on the FJ40 for now and daily drive it if I need to. At least Sandy doesn't need the Tundra every day so I can drive that for the most part.

Got to get some parts for the GM alt swap and get that done.

 

[ChuckD]

Thanks Sputnik! Yes, it is 2" .120 wall HERW and 2” .125 wall DOM. I haven't decided on the finish yet. Powdercoating is a little pricey ($200-300) but definately not using something that won't hold up. I think a clear finish would be cool if there is such a thing that is durable. Need to do something fast because it is beginning to rust and I want to head it off before any pitting occurs.

Eric, that sucks about the 80. Mine was teasing me the other day with the check engine light. It came on and I chuckled... then it went off an hour later and has been off ever since.

Sounds like lots of progress out there.

 

[Eric_FJ40]

Eric, that sucks about the 80. Mine was teasing me the other day with the check engine light. It came on and I chuckled... then it went off an hour later and has been off ever since.

Sounds like lots of progress out there.

I guess I'll take the hub apart this weekend if there's time (got to focus on the FJ40) and see if the birf is toast or not.

The pinion seal probably got chewed up from sitting under mud for 30 minutes or more at Perry - I'm sure some sand and dirt has gotten in there and just chewed up the seal. That shouldn't be too hard to replace (yeah, right).

Great work on that cage - you'll have good protection with that.

 

[Sputnik40]

Lets keep this thread on rebuilds - take the chit chat to another thread

Got the front bumper brackets, bumper and winch back on last night. Bleeding PS tonight - Happy Hour Friday - then finish rear axle Sat.

Debating on forking over $$$ for a Double Carden for the rear from Jessie. Gag - damn fuel costs are eating into my play money...

 

[Eric_FJ40]

New set of black lugnuts came in Tuesday (have plans to paint the wheels black too). All my CB stuff came in yesterday (mounting a center loaded whip on the rear this time). Today my shocks, brake pads and rod ends arrive.

Purchased parts to relocate the exhaust under the rear of the tub so the shocks won't collide with it. Picked up a voltmeter and ordered a new waterpump.

Should be able to re-route the exhaust tonight and maybe install the shocks. Going out of town tomorrow night but will be back Sunday and have Monday off to work on it too.

I need to sit down and start a thread - just haven't made the time yet.

 

[Eric_FJ40]

Oh - set the wheel bearings and buttoned up the front axle for the last time on Tuesday. Also installed longer bolts for the wheelstops and adjusted. Also mounted my hi-lift in a different place - more accessable and sturdier.

Should be tackling the GM alternator install Sunday and Monday. Did you know that you can't purchase an 'idiot light' at the local discount auto?