Grrrr-Be-Gone (1 Viewer)

[Nay]

Upon regearing to 5.29's, I really started to notice some driveline rumbling at 45-55 mph, and after a hardcore snow run after Thanksgiving adding some nice candy cane striping to the rear driveshaft, I decided it was time for an inspection.

I have found that there are two great 4x4 relationships to establish - the first is with a good fabricator and the second a reliable driveline shop. So I unbolted the rear shaft and took it to Driveline Service in Colorado Springs (off Sierra Madre downtown for you locals), because I have had great success with them in the past fixing balance issues with both brand new and OEM driveshafts.

I walk in and put the driveshaft on the counter and explain it's not happy, and they guy looks at it, laughs, and says "that might be due to some dents", but then he checks it out and says that it doesn't feel too bad...it's just candy caned and just recommends a balance check.

I get a call a couple hours later, and they say it is well within tolerance for straightness (1/100,000th) and balanced right up with not much weight needed. They say that there is one small dent but don't think it will matter, and that one u-joint is a little bit sticky but that Toyota joints are the best thing going and should be preserved if possible so recommend keeping them. This is the best outcome I could have hoped for. Now I just have to hope it works.

I pick up the driveshaft for a total price of $50 including a nice new paint job. My 80 is completely vibration free to 70 mph, which is the top speed I drive.

If you have a grumbling driveline, find a good driveline shop and have them inspected. I have a completely different truck for $50.

 

[FirstToy]

yep, new Toyota OEM spider joints and re tubed (dented up really well). Drives smooth at all speeds and no noises. driveline shop said Toyota spider joints are the best, better than anything they carry (spicer)

 

[96r50]

Could one of you explain what retubing is? Thanks

 

[FirstToy]

It is replacing the 'tube' of metal the driveshaft is made of- only necessary when you damage it.

 

[Romer]

Yup, retubbing is typically adding a thicker tube for more protection so this kind of stuff doesn't happen.

 

[gray]

Intersting carnage; It appears that the tube was struck, and twisted; is that what is required to produce this type damage with a stock engine? ie: failure starts with a strike to the tube, which then leads to a loss of integrity and strength, which then allows the twisting??

Or, is the twisting just an illusion of sorts? (no twisting) ie: The damage is in a spiral pattern due to the tube spinning while the vehicle is moving forward over the rock??

Never seen it happen, just trying to work it out in my pea brain.

 

[96r50]

Thanks!

 

[Tools R Us]

Intersting carnage; It appears that the tube was struck, and twisted; is that what is required to produce this type damage with a stock engine? ie: failure starts with a strike to the tube, which then leads to a loss of integrity and strength, which then allows the twisting??

Or, is the twisting just an illusion of sorts? (no twisting) ie: The damage is in a spiral pattern due to the tube spinning while the vehicle is moving forward over the rock??

Never seen it happen, just trying to work it out in my pea brain.

The shaft hits the rock, for the truck to move the shaft turns, so as you move forward the shaft is scratched/dented in a spiral, called a candy cane or barber pole.

I just had 3 rears retubed with .120" wall DOM. A local shop, Mesa Driveshaft did the work. They cut the ends off, turn them to size for the new tube, weld the tube in and balance. Much stronger than stock, but with enough determination, can still be dented.

 

[Nay]

I'm pretty impressed with the stock strength and how easily it balanced after some reasonable abuse. Not saying I won't end up with a beefier setup at some point, but I was really wondering if I was looking at $200-$300 after my last run and it's smooth as silk.

In any case, the rear driveshaft is a real point of vulnerability. I think a lot of people who are assuming that lifted 80's tend to vibrate have minor driveshaft balance issues that could be cured for precious little money by a trip to a good driveline shop.

It was also nice to confirm that my front shaft is smooth - It is time to upgrade to the "blue bushings" since I'm still running OME.