Grinding going in to park

[Zhowardfzj80]

I have recently installed 10% underdrive, 3:1 low range, 4" dobinson flexi coils, 5.29s and was getting a growl at high speeds when decelerating. So ordered a new driveshaft with double cardan and removed the factory front driveshat. Now with no front driveshaft installed currently my truck grinds when going back in to park. Has never done it before ever. But since I removed the front drive shaft it does.



Any ideas.?

 

[Broski]

Try shifting slower

 

[jonheld]

I have recently installed 10% underdrive, 3:1 low range, 4" dobinson flexi coils, 5.29s and was getting a growl at high speeds when decelerating. So ordered a new driveshaft with double cardan and removed the factory front driveshat. Now with no front driveshaft installed currently my truck grinds when going back in to park. Has never done it before ever. But since I removed the front drive shaft it does.



Any ideas.?

It's full time 4wd. When you remove a driveshaft, you must lock the center diff. Without the center diff locked, you're relying on the viscous coupler in the transfer case to provide power to the one remaining drive shaft. This will eventually overheat the VC and cause failure.
When you stop, the output of the transfer case without the drive shaft is still spinning. That causes the grinding when you shift into park.

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

It's full time 4wd. When you remove a driveshaft, you must lock the center diff. Without the center diff locked, you're relying on the viscous coupler in the transfer case to provide power to the one remaining drive shaft. This will eventually overheat the VC and cause failure.
When you stop, the output of the transfer case without the drive shaft is still spinning. That causes the grinding when you shift into park.

Ok, that makes sense. Today, I removed the drive shaft to measure the flange holes for ordering the new shaft I need. It was not moving at all and was grinding going in to reverse at first, now it's just doing it going in to park. I can't get the CDL to lock. When I try to lock it, usually the ABS light comes on immediately and it locks no issue. Not now. So the CDL is not locking is a issue. Do you think when I get the ABS to disconnect and the CDL to lock that it won't grind anymore going in/out of park?

 

[jonheld]

Ok, that makes sense. Today, I removed the drive shaft to measure the flange holes for ordering the new shaft I need. It was not moving at all and was grinding going in to reverse at first, now it's just doing it going in to park. I can't get the CDL to lock. When I try to lock it, usually the ABS light comes on immediately and it locks no issue. Not now. So the CDL is not locking is a issue. Do you think when I get the ABS to disconnect and the CDL to lock that it won't grind anymore going in/out of park?

Are you trying to lock the CDL while in gear or in Park? Are you hearing the relay click in the left kick panel?

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

Are you trying to lock the CDL while in gear or in Park? Are you hearing the relay click in the left kick panel?

I tried it in park, but the ABS light didn't come on. Then tried again in neutral. Yes I hear the relay click.

 

[Corbet]

Did you unplug anything on the T-case when installing the gears? Either way I’d check those to be sure.

Back to your original growling noise on deceleration. Did you do anything to correct pinion angle with your 4” coils?

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

Did you unplug anything on the T-case when installing the gears? Either way I’d check those to be sure.

Back to your original growling noise on deceleration. Did you do anything to correct pinion angle with your 4” coils?

I installed the proper control arms from cruiser teq that they recommended. The growling noise was sometimes not hardly noticeable and passengers couldn't tell. But I could notice it

 

[jonheld]

the CDL to lock that it won't grind anymore going in/out of park?

It's an automatic transmission with full time 4WD. When you're in gear, the transmission is constantly trying to drive the transfer case.
Without the center locked and a drive shaft removed, there will be spinning bits in both the transmission and transfer case even when the vehicle is stopped.
With the center locked, there are no more spinning bits once the vehicle has stopped.
The spinning bits inside the transmission is what's causing the grinding when you shift gears.
This has nothing to do with ABS. The ABS is automatically disabled when the center diff is locked which is why you get the ABS dash indicator.

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

It's an automatic transmission with full time 4WD. When you're in gear, the transmission is constantly trying to drive the transfer case.
Without the center locked and a drive shaft removed, there will be spinning bits in both the transmission and transfer case even when the vehicle is stopped.
With the center locked, there are no more spinning bits once the vehicle has stopped.
The spinning bits inside the transmission is what's causing the grinding when you shift gears.
This has nothing to do with ABS. The ABS is automatically disabled when the center diff is locked which is why you get the ABS dash indicator.

I got the drive shaft back in, grinding noise is now gone when going in to park. Trying to actuate the center diff lock, I hear the relay, hear the motor spin but ABS does not disconnect. Does this mean the CDL position switch is not reading and allowing the computer to know it's locked and then unlocking the ABS?

 

[jonheld]

I got the drive shaft back in, grinding noise is now gone when going in to park. Trying to actuate the center diff lock, I hear the relay, hear the motor spin but ABS does not disconnect. Does this mean the CDL position switch is not reading and allowing the computer to know it's locked and then unlocking the ABS?

Could be the CDL position switch. You can jump the pins on the harness and test the rest of the system.

 

[jonheld]

I got the drive shaft back in, grinding noise is now gone when going in to park. Trying to actuate the center diff lock, I hear the relay, hear the motor spin but ABS does not disconnect. Does this mean the CDL position switch is not reading and allowing the computer to know it's locked and then unlocking the ABS?

Forgot to post a picture of the switches on the transfer case.

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

Forgot to post a picture of the switches on the transfer case.

View attachment 3665591

Yes I have tested the plug at the CDL locl switch. I removed the plug and jumped it with wire and ABS comes on, also while I removed the switch from the housing I plugged it back in to the switch and pressed it and the ABS comes on when I do. I hear the CDL lock and unlock when pushing my button. (I did the pin 7 mod and added the CDL button). But I never see the ABS light come on anymore like it used to. That has to come on for the front and rear to be able to lock correct?

 

[jonheld]

Yes I have tested the plug at the CDL locl switch. I removed the plug and jumped it with wire and ABS comes on, also while I removed the switch from the housing I plugged it back in to the switch and pressed it and the ABS comes on when I do. I hear the CDL lock and unlock when pushing my button. (I did the pin 7 mod and added the CDL button). But I never see the ABS light come on anymore like it used to. That has to come on for the front and rear to be able to lock correct?

Again, ABS disabled (ABS light on) is a function of the CDL locking. Are you seeing the CDL light on the dash indicating that the CDL is locked?
The axle lockers will not activate until the center is locked.
It's very unlikely that there is an issue with the transfer case internals. It is far more likely that the CDL position switch is failing or is simply worn or damaged internally.
Switches are inexpensive and easy to change.
It's also possible that the CDL motor is corroded internally and not allowing full range of motion or has been removed at one point and not installed correctly.

 

[Zhowardfzj80]

Again, ABS disabled (ABS light on) is a function of the CDL locking. Are you seeing the CDL light on the dash indicating that the CDL is locked?
The axle lockers will not activate until the center is locked.
It's very unlikely that there is an issue with the transfer case internals. It is far more likely that the CDL position switch is failing or is simply worn or damaged internally.
Switches are inexpensive and easy to change.
It's also possible that the CDL motor is corroded internally and not allowing full range of motion or has been removed at one point and not installed correctly.

The CDL light has never worked a single time for me in 3 years. CDL, rear locker and front locker have worked fine for the last 2 years.

I have done the pin 7 mod and added the CDL button. For the last 2 years the ABS would disconnect immediately (light would come on) and could hear the Center actuator engage and stop. Again, no CDL light at any time. I then could get rear to lock ( could hear it actuate) and the rear diff light would go solid. Then could get FR-RR (FRONT) to actuate and hear it and the front diff light would go solid. And it was 100% locked in front, center and rear.

ABS LIGHT on/disconnected
Center diff light not on, but locked
Rear diff locked, light solid
Front diff locked, light solid.
It was this way for 2 years.

Now, CDL is still actuating. I replaced CDL position switch with new, light still does not come on, and now ABS light does not come on when hitting CDL button either. (But it is still actuating). I jumper wire the plug to that switch and ABS light comes right on but not CDL light. I heard some chatter in the transmission relay, tapped on it some and still chattered then tapped again and no more chatter. Didn't change the issue. So I replaced the transmission relay with another I had on hand and no change. After locking CDL I try to actuate rear and no sound. I figure because ABS is not disconnected. I'm trying now to look into why ABS is not disconnecting

 

[jonheld]

I would check/replace the CDL indicator in the cluster so you have a positive indication for the CDL.
The ABS ECU should get a logic low (ground) on pin 19 when the CDL locks. That is what tells the ABS ECU that the CDL is locked and to disable ABS.
This logic low is triggered by the CDL position switch.
Since you can short the plug and cause the ABS light to illuminate, we can assume that the wiring is in good shape.

The remaining electrical suspects are the switch which you said was replaced (new OEM or aftermarket?), and the CDL actuator (unknown).
The mechanical installation of the CDL actuator is also a question. Was it installed with the motor at an endstop (engaged or disengaged) and the CDL mechanism fully engaged or disengaged?