- Thread starter
- #41
Green '71 Frame Off Mild Build
- Thread starter srgould41
- Start date
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Wow Steve! You are doing a great job on this. 5 Bannana!
- Thread starter
- #43
I installed the drive train this morning. I'll take some pics this afternoon when I get home. I left out the torque converter until after I break in the engine so I don't have to finish all the tranny plumbing before hand.
- Thread starter
- #44
Thanks for all the props from my fellow Cruiserheads! Even better, come over and help 
- Thread starter
- #45
OK, so here are the pics I promised.
Rear axle in place. Note the new rotors, but no calipers yet. Those go on this weekend.
4 axles. The one with wheels is going on the front. The other two I bought with the intention of using the housings for a spring over mod, but that is delayed. I need the cash more so I am cleaning them up and selling them.
Front axle installed. I still have to swap out the knuckles for disc brake ones that are on the work bench behind the frame. I needed to get the frame rolling so I could get the engine installed and make more room in the garage. Space was getting too tight to work.
And the engine installed. Yay!
From the back looking forward. I am pondering welding the washers in place to keep the t-case from moving side-to-side. Any thoughts on that?
That's it for today.
Rear axle in place. Note the new rotors, but no calipers yet. Those go on this weekend.
4 axles. The one with wheels is going on the front. The other two I bought with the intention of using the housings for a spring over mod, but that is delayed. I need the cash more so I am cleaning them up and selling them.
Front axle installed. I still have to swap out the knuckles for disc brake ones that are on the work bench behind the frame. I needed to get the frame rolling so I could get the engine installed and make more room in the garage. Space was getting too tight to work.
And the engine installed. Yay!
From the back looking forward. I am pondering welding the washers in place to keep the t-case from moving side-to-side. Any thoughts on that?
That's it for today.
Thanks for all the props from my fellow Cruiserheads! Even better, come over and help
I'll help with the parts..... I'm only good for drinking your beer otherwise.
Great new pictures.
MarcoPolo
Mud.. it's a life...
Awesome progress there Steve
Does your son get to handle the rattle can to help out dad
I bet he's pretty excited to see it back on the road too.
Does your son get to handle the rattle can to help out dad
I bet he's pretty excited to see it back on the road too.
- Thread starter
- #48
Marco,
He hasn't done any painting yet. He doesn't have a lot of interest in the work, or not often anyway. Maybe if I give him a spraycan... Then look out
At least he did notice the engine was installed. My wafe came into the garage and was watching me climb over the tranny to get to my workbench, instead of just climbing over the frame rails. Last night my son told me he noticed the engine was installed and my wife was like "really? I didn't know.." And that was after I told her I was going to install it yesterday morning.
He hasn't done any painting yet. He doesn't have a lot of interest in the work, or not often anyway. Maybe if I give him a spraycan... Then look out
At least he did notice the engine was installed. My wafe came into the garage and was watching me climb over the tranny to get to my workbench, instead of just climbing over the frame rails. Last night my son told me he noticed the engine was installed and my wife was like "really? I didn't know.." And that was after I told her I was going to install it yesterday morning.
Awesome progress there Steve
Does your son get to handle the rattle can to help out dad
I bet he's pretty excited to see it back on the road too.
Very nice.
Nice work, Steve ! Did you buy a kit for the shackle reversal or fab it up yourself ?? I'm impressed !
id say once your sure that's where the tranny is staying, weld in them washers.
- Thread starter
- #52
Um, no shackle reversal... The fronts are still in front. I may flip the front springs, though. I need to cycle the suspension first to make sure the diff won't contact the engine.
Nice work, Steve ! Did you buy a kit for the shackle reversal or fab it up yourself ?? I'm impressed !
- Thread starter
- #53
Progress
Been too long since I reported any progress. House remodeling got in the way again
Anyway, I have been cleaning parts, painting, etc. I found out I have bad birfs (were ground on by PO) so I am selling some spares to afford Longfields. I put the knuckles on along with slotted rotors knowing they have to come back off to install the axle shafts. I needed to be able to move the chassis.
So this weekend I painted the tub. I have been planning that for a long time and decided to use smooth Durabak inside and out. It is not a real smooth finish, but it should be great on the trails. It took three coats with a super smooth roller to get complete coverage. The rest of the body pieces will have to wait until the tub is back on so I have room to work on them.
I am not too thrilled with the shade of green, though. It started out as British Racing Green. It is quite a few shades lighter now. My wife says I'll never be spotted if I go off trail into the trees. I just told her they will look for the flames and smoke.
I am waiting on front (V6 4Runner) calipers I ordered and will slam those in next weekend. I have to de-rust the rotors too. I left the chassis outside last night because the garage was in use as a paint booth and it rained. I can't believe how fast those nice and shiny rotors rusted
Then I need to get some brake hoses made to mate up to the factory steel lines. After that the tub will go on and the real fun begins. Assembly time
Been too long since I reported any progress. House remodeling got in the way again
Anyway, I have been cleaning parts, painting, etc. I found out I have bad birfs (were ground on by PO) so I am selling some spares to afford Longfields. I put the knuckles on along with slotted rotors knowing they have to come back off to install the axle shafts. I needed to be able to move the chassis.
So this weekend I painted the tub. I have been planning that for a long time and decided to use smooth Durabak inside and out. It is not a real smooth finish, but it should be great on the trails. It took three coats with a super smooth roller to get complete coverage. The rest of the body pieces will have to wait until the tub is back on so I have room to work on them.
I am not too thrilled with the shade of green, though. It started out as British Racing Green. It is quite a few shades lighter now. My wife says I'll never be spotted if I go off trail into the trees. I just told her they will look for the flames and smoke.
I am waiting on front (V6 4Runner) calipers I ordered and will slam those in next weekend. I have to de-rust the rotors too. I left the chassis outside last night because the garage was in use as a paint booth and it rained. I can't believe how fast those nice and shiny rotors rusted
Then I need to get some brake hoses made to mate up to the factory steel lines. After that the tub will go on and the real fun begins. Assembly time
- Thread starter
- #54
OK, so a little more done.
I hung the sliders
I ran pressure and return fuel lines and the factory brake hard line, modded to fit the changes I made to the frame.
I am having trouble finding the correct length rear hose without getting one custom made. The FAQ's and such list a part number for a 22" hose, but I think I need 26" to be safe.
Up front I stripped, painted, then installed the radiator frame and lower splash guard.
I also flipped the front springs and redrilled the second leaf. Got those back in.
Tomorrow I will yank the tranny to install a new input shaft seal and the torque converter I just received. This weekend I'll hit the local Napa looking for brake hoses, radiator hoses, fuel hoses, belts, etc...
Question: I am going to use the original tie rod using some special made cone washers (they were machined for a friend) on the rod ends to mate up to the mini truck steering arms. I want to sleeve the tie rod. Has anyone done that? What size tube did you use?
I hung the sliders
I ran pressure and return fuel lines and the factory brake hard line, modded to fit the changes I made to the frame.
I am having trouble finding the correct length rear hose without getting one custom made. The FAQ's and such list a part number for a 22" hose, but I think I need 26" to be safe.
Up front I stripped, painted, then installed the radiator frame and lower splash guard.
I also flipped the front springs and redrilled the second leaf. Got those back in.
Tomorrow I will yank the tranny to install a new input shaft seal and the torque converter I just received. This weekend I'll hit the local Napa looking for brake hoses, radiator hoses, fuel hoses, belts, etc...
Question: I am going to use the original tie rod using some special made cone washers (they were machined for a friend) on the rod ends to mate up to the mini truck steering arms. I want to sleeve the tie rod. Has anyone done that? What size tube did you use?
torfab
Supporting Vendor
You could reuse the tie rods and sleeve them to make them extra rigid, but the fj40 tie rod ends are still pretty weak compared to 60/80 series.
You could shorten either of those and sleeve them for a stronger setup
You could shorten either of those and sleeve them for a stronger setup
- Thread starter
- #56
Hey Tor!
Yes, I want to sleeve what I have for now. The steering arms are the stock pick up arms from a mini disc brake conversion. I can't afford to go whole hog right now. I just need to get it as strong as I can with what I can afford. later on I can worrry about beefy steering arms and such.
I was just wondering if anyone else has sleeved their tie rods and what size tube they used.
Yes, I want to sleeve what I have for now. The steering arms are the stock pick up arms from a mini disc brake conversion. I can't afford to go whole hog right now. I just need to get it as strong as I can with what I can afford. later on I can worrry about beefy steering arms and such.
I was just wondering if anyone else has sleeved their tie rods and what size tube they used.
- Thread starter
- #57
The last thing I wanted to do before the body went on is get the trans cooler lines installed. I bought some tubes and a T for the temp sensor and bent and installed them. I suspect the temp sensor won't fit under the tunnel cover, but I'll have to test that later.
Then the tub.
The more I look at the paint color the more I hate it. I'm going to sand and then rattle can it. At least it is hard paint
Then the tub.
The more I look at the paint color the more I hate it. I'm going to sand and then rattle can it. At least it is hard paint
I think the color's cool, especially with the white wheels, but it's your truck, and you'll never have a better opportunity to get it right. Great build.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks for the comment. In the dark light the color looks dark. In the sun it looks almost flourescent green.
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
<snip>
So this weekend I painted the tub. I have been planning that for a long time and decided to use smooth Durabak inside and out. It is not a real smooth finish, but it should be great on the trails. It took three coats with a super smooth roller to get complete coverage. The rest of the body pieces will have to wait until the tub is back on so I have room to work on them.
<snip>
That looks pretty amazing for a DIY roll-on paint job!!
Any tips on doing this kind of paint work on the fiberglass dome? I've heard that a different paint or prep needs to be done when painting fiberglass? Needs "flex" in the paint? Is that b.s.?
I have a fiberglass dome that has remained unfinished and exposed to the weather for almost 2 years now. Recently got quoted $850 for primer, paint, and clearcoat, white on top, Zolatone on the undersurface (instead of a headliner). But, I'm thinking of trying something like this myself. I want it nice and durable, but probably doesn't need to be glass perfect finish. Any tips?
Awesome build!! Keep the posts coming!
