Grease

[MikeKennedy]

Im trying to find a good grease locally, and we use this petro canada ada precision synthetic stuff at my work on big rigs for off Highway oilfield use.
I know toyota recommends NLGI 2, this synthetic stuff is NLGI 1, for berrings and chassis, no big deal it gets really cold here.

Also we use moly for the spindle needle bearing correct??

So just wanted to know what you guys think about the synthetic and the synthetic moly, and if anyone has had experience with the Petro Canada stuff.

THANKS

 

[2001LC]

Synthetic all the way IMHO. Moly is said to fill-in minor imperfections and can by used in all applications of chassis IMHO. #1 is recommended for spindle needle bearings and #2 for all else. That said; you may like #1 in propeller shafts to get slip splines to move more freely an aid in getting grease to move past seals while servicing. Do not fill wheel bearings hub cavity more than 1/3 (if at all) with grease, as more can cause heat dissipation problems.

If you search the internet you'll find some real word testimonials of the rejuvenating properties of moly grease in industrial application. Just remember to handle with care as it is a heavy metal (hazardous)

 

[MikeKennedy]

Okay great, Thanks. so i'll just use the precision synthetic for everything then, more convenient that way.
does this grease look good to you?

i havent a clue what to look for in the charts other than NLGI and operating temp.

 

[2001LC]

I'm no grease expert, but the synthetic moly #1 and #2 should work fine. I use Mobile 1 Synthetic because easy to find for all my fluids and greases with the exception of #1. For #1 I use Amsoil, because I can find it around here. You could compare to your specs to M1 & Amsoil. I'd also add; in most applications IIRC Toyota FSM & owners manual recommends lithium base greases.

 

[Sandroad]

I'm not going to use Mobil 1 synthetic anymore because the plastic pan I keep my grease guns in has a heavy layer of red oil that ran out of the M1 gun in just a couple of months storage.

 

[Elijah]

I'm not going to use Mobil 1 synthetic anymore because the plastic pan I keep my grease guns in has a heavy layer of red oil that ran out of the M1 gun in just a couple of months storage.

Yep, this is true and annoying as all get out. Is there a good synthetic that doesn't do this? Also, can I use a number 1 grease for all applications? Or a number 2?

 

[MikeKennedy]

Yep, this is true and annoying as all get out. Is there a good synthetic that doesn't do this? Also, can I use a number 1 grease for all applications? Or a number 2?

This is what im thinking i don't really care about whatever moly does if you grease often it shouldn't matter right?
From what I've read it seems NLGI rating is more relevant to operating temperatures, it was -39c yesterday and barely gets to 30c a few days in summer here. So im thinking i could use NLGI #1 year round for everything. Anybody else just use one type?
And when comparing NLGI 1 & 2 the differences seem minor i don't know for sure tho, im also no grease expert.

 

[MikeKennedy]

AMSOIL Synthetic

Heres Amsoil NLGI 1 Synthetic for comparison, it doesn't seem that much better than the synthetic im looking at, i don't really know tho.

 

[2001LC]

I'm not going to use Mobil 1 synthetic anymore because the plastic pan I keep my grease guns in has a heavy layer of red oil that ran out of the M1 gun in just a couple of months storage.

Yep, this is true and annoying as all get out. Is there a good synthetic that doesn't do this? Also, can I use a number 1 grease for all applications? Or a number 2?

I think you'll find all lithium based grease will separate a little. Toyota recommend service based on miles and/or time which ever comes first. Maybe (in part) it is because of this separation issue, regular driving keeps grease mixed together.

Heres Amsoil NLGI 1 Synthetic for comparison, it doesn't seem that much better than the synthetic im looking at, i don't really know tho.

Synthetic is not going to very all that much, the base of the grease and stated application will make a big difference. Keep in mind #1 is thinner than #2. Wheel bearings and spider (u-joints) run at high speed and can get very hot if wrong grease is used. The spindle needle bearing on cold mornings (before heated up) will groan a little on slow turns if #2 is used, #1 is recommended so we don't hear groan. It is also the only place I've seen the factory recommend synthetic IIRC.

Sub zero here the last few days like -5 f (wind chill -15 or -20) I can't even imagine -39 c. I sure you could find data on proper viscosity for your climate from Toyota, you may need to call tech support thou. Stay with Toyota recommended grease base and viscosity for all fluids & greases, brand is a matter of personal choice. For wheel & spiders bearings it is very import that you use only a high speed wheel bearing grease.

Your smart to do your home work on this, especially with the climate your in. I'd also talk with the manufacture of the grease your looking at, along with Mobil & amsoil to compare what each are saying. Hopefully you'll get helpfully info form some expert not just some call room kid.

Moly, well a personal choice, but amazing stuff. Some mechanics don't clean bearings they just repack (save time) and justify by saying re-mineralization. Moly is a clean more controlled way to do same.

 

[Bloomer]

Anyone have experience with the Lucas red synthetic grease for u-joints?

 

[Bloomer]

^^mistake above...Lucas NON synthetic #2 red. Anyone using for u-joints and can provide feedback on quality?

Sorry for the hijack.....when switching to or from synthetic based grease, is it necessary to purge all the old grease out?

 

[scottm]

Moly grease is not recommended for roller bearings, great for sliding bearings. Rollers in roller bearings rely on friction to keep them rolling. If a slight imperfection or bit of debris causes a roller to skid, it can develop a flat-spot. The flat-spot causes that roller to continue skidding, and thins the roller so adjacent rollers take more load. Catastrophic failure is likely. Moly is so slick it makes it easier for rollers to skid.

Modern bearings and greases are so well made they have few imperfections and impurities, so moly grease usually can work, but it is still not recommended.

I used to keep Mr. Moly grease in my guns, and didn't get much drool. Mr. Moly is clay-based, thickened by clay, it didn't seem to separate. Now I have lithium-soap thickened Mobil 1 and moly-graphite grease in my guns, and I have to keep them in pans to catch the oil.