Grease for uni-joints in tail/prop shafts - moly (grey) or lithium (bearing) ? (1 Viewer)

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What's the correct grease type to use with uni-joints and the slip joints of tailshafts/propshafts and the uni joints?

Is it grey moly grease (as used in swivel hubs for kingpin bearings) or lithium grease (as used for wheel bearings)?

Never worked this out and I would like to re-grease my 80's uni-joints and the slip joints in the tail/prop shafts.

Thanks.
 
Grey moly for the slip yoke and lithium NLGI-2 (like Lucas Red-N-Tacky 2) for u-joints.
 
I use Valvoline Palladium in/on everything. It contains enough moly to be used in the birfield’s but not too much to be classified as a multi-purpose grease that can be used everywhere on our Cruisers.
 
The fsm says to use MP grease. Really it shouldn't matter as long as your keeping them greased with something.

I am pretty sure the only thing grease does in a u joint or slip yoke is prevent rust and corrosion.

The bearings in a u joint don't even turn 360 degrees.
 
Uni joint bearings are needle bearings though so probably do need care.
 
The fsm says to use MP grease. Really it shouldn't matter as long as your keeping them greased with something.

I am pretty sure the only thing grease does in a u joint or slip yoke is prevent rust and corrosion.

The bearings in a u joint don't even turn 360 degrees.
Run your U-joints with out grease and get back to us. I’m positive that they will disintegrate due to friction long before corrosion has a chance to set in.
 
Valvoline Palladium (Lithium base with 3% Molybdenum) for the slip yolks and knuckles. In the US it's sold at NAPA auto parts stores. Around the world there're other greases that are similar (Penrite, Shell, ---).

I changed from Mobil 1 grease to the Palladium for the U-joints once they hit 300,000 miles, haven't had any issues using the 3% Moly LIthium base grease in the U-joints, now at 378,000 miles.

Mud rule #7: any grease is better than no grease, contaminated grease, or incompatible grease with what's in there now.

FWIW
 
Valvoline Palladium (Lithium base with 3% Molybdenum) for the slip yolks and knuckles. In the US it's sold at NAPA auto parts stores. Around the world there're other greases that are similar (Penrite, Shell, ---).

I changed from Mobil 1 grease to the Palladium for the U-joints once they hit 300,000 miles, haven't had any issues using the 3% Moly LIthium base grease in the U-joints, now at 378,000 miles.

Mud rule #7: any grease is better than no grease, contaminated grease, or incompatible grease with what's in there now.

FWIW
378k miles on original U-joints?
 
Run your U-joints with out grease and get back to us. I’m positive that they will disintegrate due to friction long before corrosion has a chance to set in.


My first truck was a 98 Tacoma. I picked it up with 125,000 miles on the odometer.

Sold it with 330,00 on the odometer. I never even looked at the u-joints on that tacoma while I owned it. Although I am sure the u-joints came greased from the factory 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣

The only problems I have had with u joints was on lifted vehicles.
 
+1 Red n Tacky everywhere but the birfs.
 
The FSM calls for lithium based chassis grease NLGI #2 in both knuckles and u-joints/slip yokes, with the knuckles further specifying an undisclosed % of moly. Valvoline Palladium, at 3% moly, is a good choice for everything. There are many other things that will kill your Cruiser, so I wouldn't sweat this too much.



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"378k miles on original U-joints?"

Yes, on my 96 FZJ80 the rear U-joints are original @ 378,000 miles. The front driveshaft is out and sitting on the shelf with the original U-joints (lower miles as it's been out for quite awhile).

There is an occasional metallic "clink" if I shift into reverse too quickly ie: while still moving forward slightly, so it might be getting close to replacement time but so far so good, no vibrations and no perceptible slop in the joints.
 
The FSM calls for lithium based chassis grease NLGI #2 in both knuckles and u-joints/slip yokes, with the knuckles further specifying an undisclosed % of moly. Valvoline Palladium, at 3% moly, is a good choice for everything. There are many other things that will kill your Cruiser, so I wouldn't sweat this too much.



View attachment 3126134

My fsm says to use MP grease for the u-joints aka spider bearings

20220914_212652.jpg



Personally I don't use joints very often, but when I do I always use the green N sticky in my joints 🤣 🤪 😂
 
Run your U-joints with out grease and get back to us. I’m positive that they will disintegrate due to friction long before corrosion has a chance to set in.

When I changed noisy uni joints in my first new to me cruiser, needle rollers had been reduced to pulverised iron granules. Barely a full needle left in a couple of the cups.

Front wheel bearings where the same, which I discovered a few weeks into ownership after one had a total collapse and locked up the front wheel! Hard left at 50mph is an exciting way to find out the POs deferred PM is due NOW!!
 
Red n Tacky on everything but birf filling.
 
The FSM does appear to contradict itself between the Maintenance section (specifying lithium-based NLGI #2) and the Propeller Shaft section (specifying MP grease). I think these are the same thing. Grease nomenclature can be confusing:

AP Grease (all purpose) is a lithium based multifunctional high temperature, water resistant grease.
MP Grease (multi purpose) is a NLGI (National Lubrication Grease Institute) number 2 grease. The number 2 refers to the consistency of the grease. In this case number 2 is about the consistency of peanut butter. It is thick enough not to be flung off at moderate rotational speeds. It also operates within the temperature ranges experienced in our vehicles.
EP grease (extreme pressure) has solid lubricants (graphite and/or molybdenum disulfide) to provide protection under heavy loadings. In most all applications, EP grease can be used where any AP or MP grease is called for.

Valvoline Palladium is lithium-based NLGI #2 with molybdenum disulfide . Although the label says "Heavy Duty", the website does refer to it as being an EP grease. If you can use an EP grease in place of an MP grease, then in theory Palladium should be good for all of your chassis/birfield lubrication needs.
 

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