Got rear ended - Looking for input on what to do

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

BAR

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 17, 2017
Threads
4
Messages
12
Location
Colorado
Another car lost control on ice and clipped the right side of the bumper and rear quarter panel on my 2000 LC. Most of the damage was to the bumper (which I am going to replace with an aftermarket) and to the rear-tail lamp housing. It's folded in on itself pretty good. Their insurance (Root Insurance) has accepted fault and sent an estimate and check for repairs based on pictures that I sent them. I have gone to a body shop and they are not sure that they can pull out the damage. If they can't pull it out, then they would have to replace the entire rear quarter panel. I am not to excited about this option.

I have been building it up to use as a trail rig, so I don't really care if it looks perfect. I just want to be able to fit the tail lamp housing in there and paint it so it doesn't rust. All the body shops I have talked to only seem geared to making it look new, which feels like overkill for what I want. I am temped to try and pull it back into shape myself and then have it painted. Is that a bad idea?

Anyone have any input on how to fix this cheaply so it's functional and doesn't rust? It would be nice to use any leftover insurance money for other mods. Thanks!

IMG_0984 (1).jpeg


IMG_1001.jpeg
 
Hammer + pliers + paint.
 
Get a few body shop quotes to bring your rig back to shape. Then present the highest to the insurer. Tell them you will take the check and handle things on your own. Buy a hammer pliers paint and new slee bumper + swingout. Pocket the rest.
 
Root Insurance is a bit different and their process is what makes me hesitate. They essentially do an initial picture based estimate and cut a check for what they think it is going to cost. This is on the low end and they hope you pocket the money and go away. If you do go to a body shop, then the body shop can submit a supplemental claim for any additional cost above the original estimate. So, if I start working on it myself, it seems that I give up any ability to claim additional cost of the repair.

I am on the fence. I am really tempted to start working on it to see what I can do. However, because it has a large fold I am worried it is going to start tearing if I start bending it back.
 
Root Insurance is a bit different and their process is what makes me hesitate. They essentially do an initial picture based estimate and cut a check for what they think it is going to cost. This is on the low end and they hope you pocket the money and go away. If you do go to a body shop, then the body shop can submit a supplemental claim for any additional cost above the original estimate. So, if I start working on it myself, it seems that I give up any ability to claim additional cost of the repair.

I am on the fence. I am really tempted to start working on it to see what I can do. However, because it has a large fold I am worried it is going to start tearing if I start bending it back.
You always have the option to use your own insurance. Talk to them, I'm not sure if it would hurt your rates but maybe not since deemed not your fault. Your insurer can then go after this Root Insurance business for their losses, which would included your deductible then to be returned to you.
This is a situation I just dealt with myself.
 
I dealt with Root recently on a claim where the other driver was at fault (first time I've ever heard of them). Yes, they do an estimate based on pics, but just go get your own and send it and have them send you the difference. If you get multiple that are higher, it totally removes any ground for them to stand on to haggle.

If that doesn't work, then what @MechE30 suggests also works but takes a little more of your time.
 
You go to your own body shops and ask them for two quotes. One for "back to original" using insurance and the 2nd quote, cash-out of pocket work, limited repair, just the body.... as bumper will be aftermarket.
 
Thanks for all the responses on insurance - super helpful.

Anybody tackle body work like this by themselves? Or should I leave it to the pros?
 
Assuming that you have full coverage through your insurance company, deal with your insurance company, and have them subrogate the claim to the other person's insurance company. This may leave you "hanging" for your deductible, until your insurance company gets reimbursed by the other person's insurance, but it is typically a much easier process.
 
Thanks for all the responses on insurance - super helpful.

Anybody tackle body work like this by themselves? Or should I leave it to the pros?
I have, and if you are making a trail rig this is a great way to learn. Just go slow and use the replacement light housing guide you as you shape things.
 
Thanks for all the responses on insurance - super helpful.

Anybody tackle body work like this by themselves? Or should I leave it to the pros?
Hello fellow Boulder-area owner!

I'd like to take a quick step back on this. I hate to see people get taken by insurance.

1. It's their fault. They (root) owes you a perfectly undamaged car. It doesn't matter that you don't need that - That's exactly what you're owed. That is the literal purpose of requiring liability insurance for every driver on the road. The insurance company (yes, even Root) has hard-to-fathom-ly large sums of $$ reserves to pay you and every other accident victim all you're owed and more. Don't take anything less than a stellar number. You're not helping the other driver in the least. You're helping a wealthy business owner buy another exotic.

2. If you have any doubts at all on Root's number, reject it. Politely, of course, but reject it. Tell them that's not enough to properly repair it and you reject their offer.

3. If Root doesn't promptly pony up what the body shops say (preferably more because jobs rarely finish on budget) then consider using your own insurance. You will get your deductible back if Root has already admitted fault. If you don't have collision coverage, then this isn't an option.

4. Rust prevention requires essentially perfect body and paint work. Good body and paint isn't just to make it look nice. It's to repair the barrier between your rust-prone steel and the elements. I've done extensive DIY body/paint work. It's a ton of work no matter what. Shortcuts aren't tolerated if you want it to look anything close to normal. The body shops refuse to do half-ass work because they know they'll just be doing it over.

Insurance is a game. It's a negotiation. Every. Single. Time. Lots of people lay over and take whatever is quick and easy. I implore you to go slow and don't get runover on this. Reject their offer if it's less than what the body shop says it takes to make that rear quarter just right. When you forgo the OEM bumper replacement, you'll have a good little bumper fund started and can get what you'd like.

Good luck!

Final clarification, even if you plan to DIY this, you need to get full payment for what it would cost the body shop. Up front. If you DIY, that's great. You are taking on a project worth X dollars. Make sure you get X dollars. Most body and paint is labor. You should be paid for your time.
 
I was recently rear ended as well. Fortunately, the hitch took the majority of the impact. The person who hit me had Liberty Mutual and they accepted fault. I had two estimates and Liberty Mutual worked the same as Root - they provide an initial number based on a visual inspection and allow for supplemental once the bumper is removed and the frame/body can be looked at in more detail. The first estimate came in at ~$1200 (aftermarket bumper cover) and the 2nd came in at ~$1500 (OEM bumper cover). Fortunately, there was no frame damage so the 2nd estimate more than covers the repair.

How much is Root offering you on visual inspection? I personally would take it to the pros, but find someone who can pull it out rather than replace the entire quarter panel.



 
Very important to have a good seal at tail lights (Especial tail light on RR, where exhaust tail pipe is), tail gate and hatch. Exhaust can enter cabin. Even having rear wing windows open while engine running is dangerous, and warned against in 100 series OM.

If just doing a low budget, bang it out! Consider filling cavity with closed cell spray in foam (window & door), to create air barrier. Even rust or drilled holes in quarter tip, need sealing.
 
Root initially came back at a little under $4K, and that is just for pulling/bending back. Majority of that is body and paint. The back lower gate has a small scuff and is a little sticky, but I am guessing that is from the rear quarter panel getting pulled away. I think there is a slight increase in the gap between the tailgate and the quarter panel on the side that got hit.

All the body shops I have talked to are on the fence of whether it can be pulled or not. Right now I have it scheduled to go into Longmont Autobody and Glass, who came highly recommend. They are going to try and pull it out. If that doesn't, work I think it will likely become a total fight with the insurance, given that just the rear quarter panel is around ($1200-1400) plus a massive amount of labor to replace. I am really pushing them to try an pull/bend it back.

Thanks for all the responses. If it was in a different location or less severe, I would have tried to pull myself. 2001CL makes some a great point on needing to have a good seal. I am defiantly intent on keeping this car as long as possible.

I will keep you all updated on the process.
 
I was recently rear ended as well. Fortunately, the hitch took the majority of the impact. The person who hit me had Liberty Mutual and they accepted fault. I had two estimates and Liberty Mutual worked the same as Root - they provide an initial number based on a visual inspection and allow for supplemental once the bumper is removed and the frame/body can be looked at in more detail. The first estimate came in at ~$1200 (aftermarket bumper cover) and the 2nd came in at ~$1500 (OEM bumper cover). Fortunately, there was no frame damage so the 2nd estimate more than covers the repair.

How much is Root offering you on visual inspection? I personally would take it to the pros, but find someone who can pull it out rather than replace the entire quarter panel.




Sorry to hear about your accident. Glad yours was much less damage. When my kids herd my beloved LC had been hit, they we super sad for me because they know that I love this car like a dog. I know that's sad.
 
Sorry to hear about your accident. Glad yours was much less damage. When my kids herd my beloved LC had been hit, they we super sad for me because they know that I love this car like a dog. I know that's sad.

I just got lucky with the angle of impact being straight on. She was probably going 50mph when she hit us, but she braked hard at the last second which drove the highlander under us. Two of my kids were with me when it happened and they know how much I love this thing. Overall, we were all kinda shocked how well the LC stood up against that kind of impact. Sadly, the $1500 wasn't enough to put a Slee bumper on :(

Hopefully, your bodyshop can pull it back out and repair it for a small fraction of the $4K and you can use the rest of the funds to get a bumper.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom