Got a New Skip. Is it the Super Lube or the KRYTOX flourinated grease ?? (1 Viewer)

[Mo Rocks]

I just bought a 1994 FZJ80 that had a skip in it. I washed it off with Super Power and hosed it off and the skip is/was gone for a week until today.

Today I decided to replace the POS Bosch Platinum plugs with the OEM Densos from Toyota. BTW, it ran fine this AM....I was planning to replace the new cheap aftermarket wires at a later date.
( I ended up buying new OEM wire, cap and rotor today from cdan.....Thanks Dan. Can't wait for the big brown truck.
And thanks for the advice on the oil pressure readings being typical of these rigs....)

I had one **** of a time getting the plastic tubes out and pulled one of the boots off in the process. I spent 30 minutes with a wire bent at 90 deg. at the tip to get the bottom boot out. It came out in 2 pieces. I glued it back together with blue silicone gasket material.

THEN I used Parker Super Lube on the boots so they won't be so hard to remove when I get the new OEM wires, etc in a few days.

Anyway, after I got everything buttoned up and started the 80, I noticed it was a noticable skip on several cyl. !!!
I double checked and had not crossed any plug wires.

QUESTION, could the Super Lube be causing a skip.??
I thought it would not be a conductor.

BTW, I had used some Dupont KRYTOX flourinated grease on 2-3 of the metal tubes originally for the same reason.

Is anyone familiar w/ KRYTOX ?? It is from the areospace industry from way back...it was from a family member that worked there years ago. It states it is inert...so I figured it would not be a conductor either.

Next question. If these silicone lubes are the culpret, how the H*** do I get it out of the metal spark plug tubes??
I am too tired to fiddle with it anymore today, and my back is killing me. But I am trying to figure out a way to clean the silicone **** out of the tubes w/o getting anything down into the cyl.....because the bulk of the silicone will be at the bottom and I will have to remove the plugs to clean it.

How about a tampon soaked in Acetone or lacquer thinner ??

Sorry about the long post....

 

[badmuthatrucka]

Before you go and use a tampon, I have a couple of questions.

(1) Where exactly did you put this grease that so much of it is at the bottom of your plug tubes?

(2) Do you own or have access to an air compressor?

If these greases are inert, then they would act as an insulator, and therefore could cause a sort of capacitor effect. However, this is not likely due to the fact that the spark-plugs and their respective cap-wires fit rather tightly together.

More questions:

(3) Did you do anything to the distributor cap while replacing the plug-wires?

(4) Did you rotate the distributor at all?

(5) Did you loosen the bolt that holds it in place?

Ideas on getting the grease out of there without the use of feminine-hygiene products:
Pull the plug-wires out again, and clean the outside of the boot that fits down in the plug-tube. Then use an air-gun on an air compressor to blast as much of that goop out of the tubes and out of the inside of the boots. You could put some paper or an old sheet up on the inside of your hood to avoid getting it all over.

That's all I've got. Good luck!

 

[Mo Rocks]

Before you go and use a tampon, I have a couple of questions.

(1) Where exactly did you put this grease that so much of it is at the bottom of your plug tubes? I put a small dab on the side of the rubber boot at the very end of each plug wire, so there is not a gross amount of it anywhere. I just do not know how much or how little grease could be a factor in this, if at all........

(2) Do you own or have access to an air compressor? I have one.

If these greases are inert, then they would act as an insulator, and therefore could cause a sort of capacitor effect. However, this is not likely due to the fact that the spark-plugs and their respective cap-wires fit rather tightly together.

More questions:

(3) Did you do anything to the distributor cap while replacing the plug-wires?NO

(4) Did you rotate the distributor at all?NO

(5) Did you loosen the bolt that holds it in place?NO

Ideas on getting the grease out of there without the use of feminine-hygiene products:
Pull the plug-wires out again, and clean the outside of the boot that fits down in the plug-tube. Then use an air-gun on an air compressor to blast as much of that goop out of the tubes and out of the inside of the boots. You could put some paper or an old sheet up on the inside of your hood to avoid getting it all over. Fortunately I did not use that much to spray all over.

I guess my writeup of this made it sound like I put a ton of it on. Sorry.........


There is just the smallest amount of silicone grease on the plug end boots...outside only, and however much rubbed off onto the metal plug tubes. I tried to put only enough on them to make them slide in and out of the tubes easier.....I did not glob it on at all.
So maybe this is not the problem. I just went back out and started it again and it sounds like it runs OK for a few revs. and then skips a bit and stumbles, etc. and then smoothes out again.

I noticed a small ( 2-3 inch ) crack in the rock hard rubber intake tube. ( got one coming from CDan soon) I will try to tape it up tomorrow and see if that makes any difference.

The other thing is the # 4 injector related skip might be back, but not as bad as before......which I have not figured out the source thereof yet....as it just came back for the first time this afternoon. I have checked a lot of the wiring, but nothing seems to make a difference yet.....
No check engine light.......
That's all I've got. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply.....

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

The cracked intake tube will cause it to run like junk

 

[Mo Rocks]

The cracked intake tube will cause it to run like junk

Well I guess I will have to wait for the big brown truck to come and bring my $100 tube ASAP.

It would be too cool if that is the problem .......something I can actually see and reach to fix w/o a flashlight, 3 mirrors and a monkey..............

 

[Jack G. Nichols]

Look at the wire bundle at the top back of the engine - a recirculating tube gets hot and can cook insulation, causing intermittent ground, and missing. Look around back there and you will see what I am talking about.

Jack, 1993

 

[Mo Rocks]

Look at the wire bundle at the top back of the engine - a recirculating tube gets hot and can cook insulation, causing intermittent ground, and missing. Look around back there and you will see what I am talking about.

Jack, 1993

Well I was not lucky enough for it to be only the intake tube.....I wrapped it up real good with some killer sticky, wide tape but only noticed a small improvement.......It must be in the wiring. The check engine light came on this AM too.....I need to figure out how to do the flash code thingy....since it is a 94 it is not OBD11

I have looked in the back of the motor for wiring and have not seen what you and others have mentioned. is it on the right or the left ?? There is hardly any room to see any wires let alone check them....am I looking at the right stuff.....??

I have never seen a motor with so much wiring and hoses in my life......I had a 40, 55, and a 62 in the past and this one is on steriods for wiring and hoses.....SDF......

Thanks Jack....

 

[veeLC]

Start the engine at night IN THE DARK. Look for arcing around the wires and distributor. Up the rpms to make sure it doesn't happen at higher revs.

 

[Mo Rocks]

Start the engine at night IN THE DARK. Look for arcing around the wires and distributor. Up the rpms to make sure it doesn't happen at higher revs.

Thanks for that idea. I tried it last night but did not see any light show......bummer.......

I am sidetracked at the moment with having to get a new AC unit for the house.

$$$$ I do not want to have to divert away from my 80.