Builds Gold GX470 Colorado build (2 Viewers)

[TheBallZack]

Hello, I've been lurking for a while and decided with all the searching I haven't been able to find the answers I'm looking for.

I'm wanting to build my truck better handle all the mountain passes Colorado has to offer. I do a lot of fishing and mountaineering and I'd like to add more capability.


Current: 113000 mile GX470

Modifications in near future. (DOING MY OWN LABOR/BIG TIME AMATEUR) $6000 budget cap.

- 3 in dobinson long travel kit (Apex offroad)
-JBA ucas
-nitto ridge grapplers 255 80 17 or 285 75 17s
- 8.5 in wheels with -12 offset
- bumper triming front and rear
- body mount chop.

I haven't found too much information on the dobinsons set up for the GX470 and nothing about the long travel variable rate rear spring set up.

If anyone has some time to spare, I'd like some input on what else I will need to add as far as suspension parts I should add that are necessary in order to maintain a safe vehicle at highway speeds, stay in alignment specs, and not cause extreme wear on components (panhard, rear control arms.. things of this nature). The dobinsons kit comes with extended brake lines, bump stops and sway bar extension. Just seeing if there are any other smart purchases I should make so i can do this 3in long travel lift the right way.


TLDR: what parts are necessary in addition to the 3in lift kit and JBA ucas from your experience that I need to install to have a safe and competent lifted GX470.

Any and all criticisms and input is appreciated.

 

[zooman61]

Facebook GXOR for every thing you would care to know

 

[HomersCanyonero]

A 3" lift with 34" tires is really outside my realm of knowledge. I live in the 2" to 2.5" lift world with 33" tires or less.

However, I do have some questions for you.

1. Is your long travel 3" lift using the 2.5" diameter body shocks or the 2.0" diameter body shocks? Just wondering because if you gonna be running heavy, you might want to make sure you get more than the 2.0" diameter body socks.

2. Did you consider getting a rear locker for more capability offroad in Colorado? This begs the question is a 3" lift with long travel suspension and 34" tires more capable than a 2" lift with rear lockers and 33" tires? Assuming you need to keep the price about the same or within your stated budget.

3. How are you improving articulation with the 3" lift and long travel suspension and the restrictive sway bars? Are you disconnecting the sway bars? Or are you adding sway bar extensions?

4. Are you getting dual rate rear springs? If so, which ones?

Again, I'm just playing devil's advocate since you asked for all input. I really don't know any better.

 

[TheBallZack]

Homer, thanks for replying.


I'm going with the 3in long travel for these reasons.
- I want to be able to fit the 34in tires and hopefully not rub like crazy when going through boulder fields
- I like the look of large tires on the GX
- I figured go big or go home if I am doing a Dobinsons kit (3 inches is the highest available)
- I like the idea of having the long travel and it is only available in the 3 in lift.

1. I am pretty sure the Dobinsons are not as beefy as the 6112s 2.5'' but beefier than 5100s. I do not plan on doing insane obstacles. My main goal is getting up mountain passes and rough trails reliably (as far as suspension goes). I considered doing the 6112s but I think the Dobinsons will be fine. I enjoy taking it slow when I'm driving trails and do not have a need for external reservoirs for fast desert running and whoops.

2. I will consider a rear locker in the future. This build will be slow and steady. The gnarliest pass I have been up against has been Mosquito Pass and maybe parts of Tincup pass and my stock vehicle performed without an issue just wish I had some more clearance and maybe some under body armor at times.

3. The JBA ucas offer 4 degrees of caster so the front should have a little more articulation with the addition of the long travel front shocks by Dobinsons. I have ordered the sway bar extensions but I put much thought in what I will do. Would It still be safe to drive on the highway up to 80MPH without the sway bars? I am going with some pretty heavy duty springs.

4. I have chosen the dual rate or variable springs. The parts for my Dobinsons kit are
GS559- 575 (rear long travel shocks)
C59 -677V (variable rate rear long travel coil springs heavy duty)
GS59-220 (front long travel shocks)
C59-352 (front heavy duty coil springs)
- rear sway bar extensions
- Diff drop (maybe not for 2-2.5 but for 3in yes)
- extended rear brake lines
- extended rear bump stops

I'm considering a new Panhard bar if my axel is off centered post lift.
Are there any other parts that I should add?

Only things I have planned that are heavy would be sliders and eventually, front and rear bumper ... and the springs I have ordered are without a doubt overkill. I would rather not have to change springs later on ($$$) when I do decide to start adding heavy armor and bumpers so I will suck it up and deal with the ride if it is harsh after I put this lift on. I'm also going with E rated tires for added insurance against sharp boulder fields.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

It's good that you know what you want and you have a plan. You are probably going to have a very harsh ride with the heavy duty springs all around until you start adding weight like the front/rear bumpers and all the attachments that go into the aftermarket bumpers (winch, tire carrier, gas carrier, etc.). However, it's better to plan ahead and get the suspension that's going to meet your future needs.

Also, you don’t need a diff drop. You probably need high angle boots for the CVs. I think this is a better solution than the diff drop. Diff drop is probably not a good solution to fix the angle of the CVs.

The tire rubbing won't be due to your lift. You can fit 34" tires with a 2.5" lift. The modifications are in the wheel well due to rubbing. The modifications needed to fit 34" tires are in the liners, body mounts, seams, wheel offsets and width, tire width, tire height, etc. So, the 3" lift doesn't have that much impact on 34's as much as all the rubbing in the wheel well.

If you have official specs on the diameter and fluid on the Dobinson shocks, please post it. It's good information. I've always assumed that they are 2.0" body diameter shocks. I just don't know which model shocks are 2.0" body diameter and which ones are more. By the way, there are a lot of brands of 2.5" body shocks like Fox, ICON, Radflo, Bilstein, ToyTec, and probably more.

I do think that disconnecting the sway bars while rock crawling is needed, but you need to re-connect them when hitting the highway. I've been trying to figure out how to get more articulation even on a 2" lift with the sway bars attached. I just don't know if sway bar extensions give you the most articulation or temporary sway bar disconnect. Or a combination of sway bar extensions with long travel front springs/shocks.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Oh, @ADVFamilyHauler is running 34's with a Fox suspension. Maybe he can chime in with regards to running 34s.

 

[ADVFamilyHauler]

Oh, @ADVFamilyHauler is running 34's with a Fox suspension. Maybe he can chime in with regards to running 34s.

 

[GXO]

A 34" tire with that offset will fit, especially with a thinner tire. You will need to do UCAs for caster and a BMC and some body seam hammering. I ran 34x10.50R17 BFG AT KOs for a while and they fit nicely.

 

[TheBallZack]

Got the JBA and 3in dobinsons front today. The height control hex screws weren't fun at all!
Took about 14 hours between two days with hand tools and Jack stands. Made sure to grease all 6 zerks on the UCAs and torque everything down to manufacture specs when wheels were back on ground.

Couple things. I noticed one of the boots on the driver side looks kind of wet. I'm no mechanic so I'm not sure if I need to do something about it. Doesn't leak on the ground or anything. (Pics all below)

Also maybe I should do the diff drop, CV angle looks ridiculous, but again I am no expert. Would it be fine to ride around with for a couple days like that in the city streets?



Also got some RRW wheels in. Still deciding on what tires to go with.. pretty set on the 285 75s 17. The wheels are 17x8.5 with -12 offset. The finish looks and feels well done.

 

[co4wheel]

I would love to meet up and try your Dobinson. Never been in a GX with Dobinson. You and I have similar goals and you should look at my build thread. We ended up in similar places. I have run 32,33 and 34" Tires. I eventually settled on 33" this time. I liked my 34" but I feel they need a re-gear. My 33" are OK with out a re-gear. Also, for rear LT i found you really want new adjustable control arms to properly set pinion. You can try it with out but I had a vibration and my child seat moved so much my little girl cried. New adjustable UCA in back solved that issue.

 

[MTNHUNDY]

Keep an eye on your CV boots to make sure they are still clamped tightly around the shaft. Mine leaked after lift install so I threw in some CVJ axles with high the angle boots.

 

[TheBallZack]

Sure enough my boots started leaking. I didn't have the time or patients to replace them myself so I had les Schwab do them. We also noticed the passenger side tie rod needed replacement so I had that done as well.

I ended up choosing 285 70 17 falken wildpeak at3 in e load because I happened to walk into discount tire on the right day. Earlier in the day they had someone who wore them for 100 miles and decided they wanted 35s so I ate the deal right up. Very happy I went with these. My second option was maxis razr mt... maybe later down the road.

Getting the rear done was quite challenging because I had never done it before. In order to fit the dobinson gs59-677v springs I had to undo the panhard bar and both upper and lower control arms and lower the diff as far as the Jack could go. The most difficult part was getting the links back in place. I have had no lights or codes from removing the air suspension.

Today this is how she sits. I'm very pleased.
Next I will get the SSO woodgrain warrior sliders out on, radio rubber guards, and wheeler bump stops measured and installed.

I had the brakes done by professionals after I kept getting this cartoonish noise and abs lights on start up. Brakes work fine and no leaks, but I am hearing this buzzing noise coming from the master cylinder (I think). I don't remember hearing that noise before and another stock gx I drive I can't hear this. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this but please chime in if you know what it might be.

Shout out to Steve (co4wheel). This job would have been far more frustrating if it wasn't for his rear long travel expertise and willingness to walk me through the steps.

 

[GXO]

Buzzer means there is a lack of pressure. Can be low fluid or a motor/accumulator failure.

 

[MTNHUNDY]

Hopefully Les Schwab used near OEM quality boots, if not order some CVJ replacements axles for when they start to leak. I would be happy to help assist with the install if needed.

Also follow the proper procedure for checking fluid level and see where it is at. Many shops do it wrong. If you have a compressor consider investing in a vacuum bleeder, it will allow you to easily tackle brake jobs that require bleeding.

Your rig is looking good!

 

[joabmc]

Agree with others, adjustable RLLs will help you out and I ditched my rear sway bar altogether with no adverse effects. Especially with the heavy rear coils. You may want to look into getting some sway bar disconnects for the front as well. LT rear was one of my best investments. Staying planted on the trail is huge IMO.

 

[co4wheel]

Sure enough my boots started leaking. I didn't have the time or patients to replace them myself so I had les Schwab do them. We also noticed the passenger side tie rod needed replacement so I had that done as well.

I ended up choosing 285 70 17 falken wildpeak at3 in e load because I happened to walk into discount tire on the right day. Earlier in the day they had someone who wore them for 100 miles and decided they wanted 35s so I ate the deal right up. Very happy I went with these. My second option was maxis razr mt... maybe later down the road.

Getting the rear done was quite challenging because I had never done it before. In order to fit the dobinson gs59-677v springs I had to undo the panhard bar and both upper and lower control arms and lower the diff as far as the Jack could go. The most difficult part was getting the links back in place. I have had no lights or codes from removing the air suspension.

Today this is how she sits. I'm very pleased.
Next I will get the SSO woodgrain warrior sliders out on, radio rubber guards, and wheeler bump stops measured and installed.

I had the brakes done by professionals after I kept getting this cartoonish noise and abs lights on start up. Brakes work fine and no leaks, but I am hearing this buzzing noise coming from the master cylinder (I think). I don't remember hearing that noise before and another stock gx I drive I can't hear this. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this but please chime in if you know what it might be.

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Shout out to Steve (co4wheel). This job would have been far more frustrating if it wasn't for his rear long travel expertise and willingness to walk me through the steps.

Your welcome, looking good.

 

[TheBallZack]

Agree with others, adjustable RLLs will help you out and I ditched my rear sway bar altogether with no adverse effects. Especially with the heavy rear coils. You may want to look into getting some sway bar disconnects for the front as well. LT rear was one of my best investments. Staying planted on the trail is huge IMO.

Can you link me to the sway bar disconnects? Or is this something I would need to fabricate myself. Been driving a week without front and rear sway bars and not really seeing a need but then again I can see how if I had to make an evasive maneuver I could roll. Leans a fair amount. Drives amazingly smooth though.

Also if I were to replace rear links, but could only replace one at a time which should I get hooked in first? Panhard track bar, upper or lowers? For those who have experimented with these parts.

MTNHUNDY, I had the regular OEM remans installed and they are holding up so far but haven't hit any trails yet.... they are not the extended red boots but OEM (so I have been told)

Gas mileage has taken a hit but I haven't taken long trips to get an accurate updated reading.

Next update will be woodgrain warrior sliders welded on. Going to paint them bronze. Still deciding on which skid plates to get. Might get ARB and paint them because I could get two pairs for the price of budbuilt and RCI and have one on hand to replace if damaged too hard. Considered ASFIR but I've researched other running into fitment issues...

 

[joabmc]

“Mstudt” on the 4Runner forum makes them. That’s the only way I’d know for you to buy them or you can fab some pretty easily. I’m working on rebuilding mine right now. The heims were getting pretty sloppy after about 4 years, but they are nice to have. I’m in the NE and in all honesty, should have removed them during winter months. The salty roads did a number on them and prematurely wore them out. Just my opinion but if you aren’t going to run sway bars on the front, I’d at the least, install some limit straps.
I’d start with your RLLs first as the factories will bend if you look at them funny, then the uppers and lastly the panhard realignment brackets.

 

[TheBallZack]

Since my last post. I have added SSO sliders (big thanks to Steve), put whiteline bushings in my LCA,s and had RSG do a complete fluid overhaul and TC cam tabs. I had been riding without my front and rear sway bars for a while and kept having my stability control come on during long highway sweepers. I have put both front and rear sway bars on and my steering is so much tighter and the body roll went away. I am debating taking the front off and leaving the rear on

That is because I had a buddy weld together my coastal offroad DIY skid plates for a welding school project (yes he did them right) and they do not work with front sway bar.... of course they don't tell you this. Pretty frustrating actually.

In order to get them to fit with my diff drop (still not sure if I should have done that) I didn't want to use dinky toytec spacers and welded on DOM tubing to extend the mounting points to account for the skid plate.

Anyone else have this problem with the coastal offroad skid plates? I wish I had just went with a different skid plate set up. It will work without the front sway but I feel like I need it on...

 

[Jstawgn]

Brandon's truck does not run front swaybar. Its a mistake on their own that they forgot to account for the swaybar.

Would it fit of you cut the side vertical brace completely? Most skidplate does not have that reinforcement.

There is someone else at GXOR have same exact problem.