Builds "Godzilla" HDJ81 Expedition Overland Build (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Threads
15
Messages
377
Location
Nomad
'93 HDJ81
Beginning to baseline. Will update with pics when the weather gets better.
  • New 315/75/16 BFG KO2s
  • ProComp 16" Matte Black Alloy wheels 7069
  • ProComp ES9000 shocks
  • 4" lift springs
  • LCP Gullwing windows
Baselining completed thus far:
  • 23303-64010 OEM Fuel Filter
  • Ran 2 cans of the LiquiMoly Diesel Purge through the fuel filter, plan is to run another 3-4 more.

  • ACSD Deleted
  • Cooling system flushed, OEM Toyota red coolant
  • ATF replaced
  • Transfer case oil replaced
  • Differential oil front/rear replaced
  • New BEBs replaced (3/16/19), pics in following post
  • New OEM Cap bolts (3/16/19)
  • 00295-00103 OEM Seal Packing / FIPG (3/16/19)

  • 90915-30002 New OEM Oil Filter, still available (3/16/19)
  • Liqui Moly DIesel 15W-40 (10L) (3/16/19)
  • Liqui Moly Engine Flush (3/16/19)
    • 1 can / 5 liters of oil, so you need 2 cans for a proper engine flush

Near Future:
  • Inspect brakes, rotors, brake lines
    • need extended brake lines, some stretch while on a lift
  • 17801-68030 OEM Air Filter
Parts ordered / Sitting on shelf:
  • Injector rebuild (PartSouq and ebay)
    • 23620-17010 (093400-5770 Denso) Nozzles
      • $357 shipped (ebay)
    • 11176-27022 (6)
      • Injector nozzle seat
      • $16.32
    • 90209-22006
      • Injector washer
      • $7.86
    • 22390-6A511
      • Fuel cut solenoid assy
      • $108.42
    • 23303-64010
      • Fuel filter
      • $40.63
    • Shipping to US
      • $32.54
  • Timing Belt and associated parts (partsouq.com)
    • 13568-19065
      • $38.41
      • Timing Belt (@98k kms the original timing belt was replaced according to sticker)
    • 13505-17011
      • $96.52
      • Timing Belt Idler Pulley / Tensioner
    • 90507-27003
      • $4.97
      • Idler Pulley / Tensioner Spring
    • 16100-19235
      • $107.27
      • Water pump w gasket
    • 11213-17010
      • $11.26
      • Cover gasket
    • 90311-32020
      • $5.33
      • Oil pump seal
    • 90311-58006
      • $6.64
      • Oil seal (belt cover) No. 1
    • 90311-58007
      • $7.68
      • Oil seal (belt cover) No. 2
    • 17115-17010
      • $1.24
      • Intake manifold gasket
    • 16284-17010
      • $4.44
      • Turbo water hose
    • 16572-17010
      • $13.48
      • Radiator outlet hose
    • 16571-17010
      • $11.82
      • Radiator inlet hose
    • 90916-03089
      • $14.97
      • Thermostat
    • 16346-66020
      • $2.38
      • Thermostat gasket
    • 16401-54750
      • $12.83
      • Radiator cap
    • 90916-02452
      • $33.87
      • Fan / Alternator belt
    • 17179-17010 (5)
      • $3.93
      • Intake manifold no. 2 gasket
    • 17171-17010
      • $3.93
      • Intake manifold exhaust gasket
    • 90210-08019 (3)
      • $1.38
      • washer
    • 11328-17010
      • $17.75
      • Timing gear cover gasket
    • 99332-11260
      • $20.41
      • AC belt (not in stock, ordered Bosch belt below)
      • 19879-47665
        • $6.47
        • AC belt (Bosch)
    • Shipping to US
      • $68.70
      • $13.85

 
Last edited:
3/16/19, 166k kms.

Completed replacing the BEBs (Big-End Bearings, aka Connecting Rod bearings) along with the connecting rod cap bolts, since the old ones do stretch a little. It took me 5 hours to complete it. I also let the oil pan settle and FIPG to form over night before I filled it with oil.
Also, plastigaged and numbers were within range, crank looked real good. I also had retired Toyota mechanic swing by and take a look at the internal, journals, crank and the bearings, and he thought the engine had 10-15k miles, he was quite amazed at its condition.

The oil pan had never been removed as far as i could tell, the FIPG was whitish/beige color and it looked like it wasn't applied manually. I also took a blow torch to the pan after I cut the FIPG with my awsome tool pictured below. Its a 20ga AL Simpson timber tie, angled at 90 deg. Another mud member had used it and it worked beautifully. I also removed the two transmission brackets on either side of the oil pan, made life much easier.

32mm socket to be used on the front of the crank to turn to get to the other bearings, have to remove the small inspection/bash plate.

Also, when installing new cap bolts, its a good idea to mark the bolt with a dot with a paint marker so that the 90 deg (27 ft. lb. + 90 deg) turn part is easy to gauge.

Here are pics of the pan before and after removal.

IMG_0383.jpg


IMG_0386.jpg


IMG_0393.jpg
 
Last edited:
BEBs, T for top and B for bottom.
None of the marks had any depth that I could feel with my fingers, they were pretty superficial and look worse in pics. The tops were much worse than the bottoms.

IMG_0389.jpg


IMG_0388.jpg


IMG_0391.jpg


IMG_0392.jpg


IMG_0387.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wire wheel on the oil pan removed all of the old FIPG. If you use the OEM FIPG, make sure it comes with the extracting tool, its a small tool you place on the end of the tube and rotate which forces ~100% of the material out of the toothpaste type tube, I shall use it on my actual toothpaste tube.

Also, I cleaned out the oil pan with some gasoline and blew it dry with compressed air.
There are 24 bolts and 3 nuts with studs. I tried practicing a dry fit of the pan before I FIPG'd and it was quite difficult to get the pan to line up on the studs. Others indicated enlargening the holes for the 3 studs and so I used a step up drill bit and increased the diameter by a single step, this was adequate to get the studs to line up rather easily.


This is the tool I made out of a flat Simpson timber tie to cut the old FIPG in place. once inserted, it can be easily hammered down the length of the oil pan.

IMG_0385.jpg


IMG_0396.jpg


IMG_0395.jpg
 
Last edited:
Only the best for my baby.
90915-30002 is NOT the same as the 90915-30002-8T (made in Thailand), search and you will find the details. Also, this is the oil filter what came off of it, maybe it was the one used in Japan. I can't find it online anywhere but its build quality was quite nice, I should have cut it in half.
AMC brand, AO-228, made in Malaysia.

IMG_0398.jpg


IMG_0406.jpg


IMG_0399.jpg
 
Last edited:
I had all sorts of water issues, beginning with the sunroof drips and not draining. Cleared the 4 lines from the sunroof down to the rocker panels. After a few rain storms noticed a whole bunch of swooshing sounds, as if a tidal wave is about to hit me...
Pulled the rocker panel plus and cleared the slits (Toyota's poorly designed drains for an offroad / expeditionary travel vehicle) with a ziptie and about 2 gallons of water came pouring out of the rocker panels.

The slits are right above the bottom most body seam behind the steps, and can be felt with the fingers if you follow the body seam back, roughly 8" from the front of that seam.

The 2nd pic is of the inside of the rocker panel, you can see one of the plugs there.

IMG_0421.jpg


IMG_0429.jpg
 
Throwing this Provent 200 on this weekend.


 
Last edited:
Installed a Provent 200 this morning.
I thought this would be a nice spot for install, right where the brake master cylinder mates with the brake booster.

1/8" AL flat plate with some holes, cuts and a bend. It's a little tricky to squeeze the bent piece behind the reservoir and to get the studs through the holes, but with enough patience and iterations, it is do-able. I had to re-bend the AL 4-5 times to get it right. It's awfully close to the brake lines, but its quite stable.

IMG_0540.jpg


IMG_0542.jpg


IMG_0544.jpg
 
Last edited:
This is interesting reading, will have to see if anyone went this route and feedback

STOCK BILLET UPGRADE​

CT26 (customers turbo) ...........$1300 AUD​

EXCHANGE(Genuine Toyota).................$1450 AUD​


This option is highly efficient and designed purely for better than stock ct26 response and reliability. It will flow more than stock and produce more torque at all revs but not designed as a high power, "big power/boost" turbo, so boost is recommended for stock psi to18psi max. Yet it will outflow, out spool and more reliable and efficient than the stock ct26 turbo. Good for those looking for a good value, significant step up from stock in many ways, yet retain a simple system and improve reliability.

Comes with a special design larger High flow and efficient, Billet Compressor wheel machined to the tightest tolerances.
  • Rebuilt and balanced using highest quality seals and bearings,
  • CHRA and VSR balanced
  • Lapped Wastegate seat for a tight seal which helps early spool.
  • Ported Turbine housing to speed gas entry to assist spool
  • Adjustable high quality wastegate actuator
 
Last edited:
Installed the 80 tailgate storage mod


A7539799-44AF-488E-BC4E-06A56F345333.jpeg


9F1EB6E3-B8C6-451D-BB6B-B5703A36494A.jpeg


58D0C00B-788E-4246-8020-AA87FA68CD18.jpeg


372EFDEB-FD34-4099-B831-A7F93D1E0C55.jpeg


DA4BDCE8-8E33-4A92-BB37-DD57890FDFFC.jpeg
 
being a HDJ81, the previous owner removed the spare tire carrier and you can see the reinforcement piece inside the tailgate which I had to also cut off and remove.
 
Any updates? Nice Rig!
 
Looking to do an injector rebuild soon or replace nozzles. I have some smoke at cold startups. This video is great in understanding a 2-stage system and what needs to be done for a proper rebuild by a diesel shop.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Vlex
Back
Top Bottom